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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2020-09-30, 5:46pm
brndsnlsn@gmail.com brndsnlsn@gmail.com is offline
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Default Raku frit and dark turquoise headache

I got so much good help regarding my intense black webbing troubles, I just had to toss out another struggle I'm having and see what great info comes my way.
I feel I have a sound understanding of what reduction is. I had a small pottery business way way back when, and did alot of reduction firing including raku firing. I feel confident I can identify the different torch flames neutral, oxidizing, reducing.
But I just can't get any success with raku frit or dark turquoise.
For the raku, all I get is a dull tan. I work it in a neutral flame. Then I change to a reducing flame and (no pause to cool) flash it in and out toward the back of the flame a few times. Nothing. I've tried letting it cool (like with striking), then reducing flame. I've tried rapid cooling (blowing on it, marvering it) then reducing flame. I've tried moving in closer in the reducing flame. About the most reaction I get it sometimes it turns mirror shiny blackish. I guess I just don't know what else to try.
As for the dark turquoise, I can't seem to get it to not turn yucky gray. I work it in a neutral flame, farther out so as not to get too hot, take my time, still turns dull gray. I haven't seemed to have the same problem with light turquoise.
I can't help but feeling this is all something to do with controlling the reduction but I'm just stymied. Are all colorchanging glasses this difficult? I'm hesitant to drop the money for some of the beautiful Double Helix for example.
Sorry for the length of my post. It was sort of cathartic though!
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  #2  
Old 2020-09-30, 7:10pm
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echeveria echeveria is offline
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Raku is a striking glass. There are some great threads here on how to work it.

Dark Turquoise is notorious for getting a metallic smutz on it. It’s not reduction. Less working time will prevent it, or soak in toilet bowl cleaner.

Triton, Helios, Aurae and Psyche are easy reducers from Double Helix. Very reliable. Just don’t over reduce. A few wafts in a lightly reducing flame will do it.
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Old 2020-09-30, 7:14pm
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http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=20601

This raku thread is great. Again, it’s a striking, not a reducing, glass
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Old 2020-09-30, 7:41pm
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Hi there, to stress again that you don't reduce raku, it's icky. You have to superheat it, and cool
Dk turquoise is very annoying with that reaction. CIM had a beautiful turquoise color called Smurfy that didn't get that grey look, it was awesome!!!! and...mostly sold out everywhere. If you can get your hands on some it's really nice. Otherwise you can keep the reduction to a minimum by just staying aware of the torch area, dk sky blue is easier than the dk turquoise, I feel....pretty much the same color but doesn't turn as grey. Lt turquoise same thing, work it quickly.

I always dip mine in etching solution if I need to, really quick and rub off will keep most of the shine. Or I try to use a CIM color that doesn't have that reaction if I want to keep it shiny.
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  #5  
Old 2020-09-30, 9:09pm
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I found it easier to learn what DH would do by using it as frit first, before trying to work it as a rod.

dj
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Old 2020-10-01, 6:47am
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Three Muses Glass Three Muses Glass is offline
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Raku can also be reactive to certain base glass. Pretty much a nightmare on dark ivory, beautiful on black. I don't mind the natural tan look either. IMO it looks great on an olive-ish green.
The schmutz on dark turquoise can be removed by etching quickly, a soak in toilet bowl cleaner like Wink or The Works (my preference), or some say a soak in regular coca-cola, but that didn't work for me.
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Old 2020-10-01, 4:50pm
brndsnlsn@gmail.com brndsnlsn@gmail.com is offline
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Thank you for the raku feedback. I think I was actually thinking of raku as reducing. I'll concentrate on striking. I'm still having trouble attaching pics. If I get it figured out I'll share what I learn. Thanks again!
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Old 2020-10-01, 8:02pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brndsnlsn@gmail.com View Post
Thank you for the raku feedback. I think I was actually thinking of raku as reducing. I'll concentrate on striking. I'm still having trouble attaching pics. If I get it figured out I'll share what I learn. Thanks again!
I think the nickname raku is misleading if you are used to raku pottery firing! It is called that for the colors it strikes to rather than the technique to achieve the colors.
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Old 2020-10-02, 6:44am
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I will add that Double Helix 'seconds' are impossible for me to distinguish from the best they have to offer and even if you could see a flaw in them they are so much less expensive that getting a quarter pound to play with is very rewarding for the price.
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Old 2020-10-15, 3:08pm
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I have trouble with rake and DH, so thanks for the info makes me want to dig it out and give it another go.
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