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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2013-09-26, 11:05am
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Hot Glass Neophyte
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Join Date: Aug 06, 2009
Location: Mt. Pleasant, SC
Posts: 3,293
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In spite of how it acts on a mixed torch, I have found that CIM Clear is GREAT to use on a Hothead Torch. It melts easily and gives a clear coat.
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2013-09-26, 4:23pm
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Senior Moment
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Join Date: Jun 16, 2012
Location: New Yawk
Posts: 4,161
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You know, I have to say when I started torching CIM Clear was my first choice. Loved it. But I've noticed the last couple of batches I got (about a year ago) are different. It soots up almost immediately, even after a good wipe down with vinegar, which never happened previously with or without a vinegar wipe. It's actually the junk clear that I use for underneath other colors and for punties now.
I do not use it hot (which can be sorta tough on a HH anyway unless you really crank it up), and no, I'm not interested in pickling it.
And, it too turns silver yellow for me LOL
Alli
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2013-09-26, 4:44pm
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Hot Glass Neophyte
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Join Date: Aug 06, 2009
Location: Mt. Pleasant, SC
Posts: 3,293
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You may be right Alli. This past year some of the CIM Clear I have gotten has had a film on it. It's clean and in paper as usual, but when I put it in the flame it clouds over...
I returned it once because the entire amount I got clouded over in the flame. Some is fine and some does this. Does anyone know what this indicates?
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2013-09-27, 5:14pm
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Senior Moment
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Join Date: Jun 16, 2012
Location: New Yawk
Posts: 4,161
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That's exactly what happens with my CIM clear Kristina. I wonder if they changed the recipe or are getting ingredients from a different supplier? Or maybe even something about the atmosphere in the factory/warehouse is affecting things?
Just thinking out loud.
Alli
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I never finish anything. I have a black belt in partial arts.
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2013-09-27, 7:40pm
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Hot Glass Neophyte
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Join Date: Aug 06, 2009
Location: Mt. Pleasant, SC
Posts: 3,293
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It doesn't seem to be consistent though. Some orders are fine, and some have the cloudiness... maybe someone has some idea on it? I would hate to have to pickle it when it looks clear to avoid it.
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2013-09-27, 8:40pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 17, 2011
Posts: 274
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When worked slowly in high oxy it is just bareable
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2013-09-27, 10:01pm
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Senior Moment
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Join Date: Jun 16, 2012
Location: New Yawk
Posts: 4,161
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Yeah, like that's an option for me *sticks her tongue at her HH; I love ya baby, but I have other needs you know!*
Alli
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I never finish anything. I have a black belt in partial arts.
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2013-09-28, 4:23am
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Hot Glass Neophyte
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Join Date: Aug 06, 2009
Location: Mt. Pleasant, SC
Posts: 3,293
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Well, I have to say that CIM Clear is still my favorite Clear for Hothead use until I find it's match - due to the softness and optical clarity. I will struggle along with it when I get the cloudy batches and return them I guess.
So far I have found that the other optically clear Clears out there are either more pricy or harder to encase with on a Hothead. It does boil right now on my Cricket though.
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2013-09-29, 12:02am
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Naysayer
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Join Date: Sep 22, 2009
Posts: 1,203
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The problems I had with some rods lately were not boiling, it's very odd, they instantly turn almost white it's so bubbly. Like it doesn't even get a chance to get hot, it's as soon as you hit the flame. So it's not even a matter of working higher and cooler.
I used it on my HH and cricket. So I think it's something with the formula or something, I really did like it.
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2013-09-29, 5:41am
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Hot Glass Neophyte
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Join Date: Aug 06, 2009
Location: Mt. Pleasant, SC
Posts: 3,293
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I guess the rising cost of everything may be a factor... maybe CIM Clear's formula has been changed.
I can tell quickly if it is going to cloud over, so I put that rod aside and try another one. Has anyone found a way to clean it that gets rid of the cloudiness?
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2013-10-23, 11:50am
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42
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Join Date: Mar 07, 2012
Location: Southwestern Ontario
Posts: 773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allicat
Flame chemistry may also play a role here Melissa. I'm on a HH, and every clear I've used so far (Effetre, CIM, DH, Uroboros) have all turned silver foil yellow gold when I've put the gather on too hot. I've never used Aether.
Alli
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I think I got it! I've been reading through the 2nd volume of contemporary lampworking, and Bandhu Dunham mentions that "heating silver foil in a slightly reducing flame gives it a more amber/yellow color which can sometimes produce a convincing and inexpensive substitute for gold."
In your case, it's not necessarily the clear glass that's making it turn yellow, but the reducing flame environment. You might have noticed it more when working hotter because hotter flames require more propane or working closer to the most reducing area of the flame (close to the torch face).
In other words, when you work hot on your hothead, you are turning the silver yellow; it's not even the clear that's yellowing (unless it's one of the reactive clears that does yellow).
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Melissa
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2013-10-23, 3:06pm
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Naysayer
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Join Date: Sep 22, 2009
Posts: 1,203
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That makes sense.
As for how to stop the bubbling, no..since it seems to be in the rod itself. I mean, as soon as we put it to flame we can see it, I think it's not fixable ?
I found something I like about those rods though if anyone wants to sell their bubbly rods!
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2013-10-23, 6:15pm
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Senior Moment
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Join Date: Jun 16, 2012
Location: New Yawk
Posts: 4,161
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It does make sense. Except the clear does yellow as well LOL if I use a reduction glass inside a bead, reduce and encase hot in clear, there's often a yellow "fog" around it (not sure what to call it).
And sorry Raven; used it all for punties LOL
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2013-10-26, 9:17am
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Artistically Absorbed
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Join Date: Jul 27, 2007
Location: Emerald City
Posts: 546
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I think clears seem to vary in batches. I have the first run clear in CIM, and it is okay. It wouldn't make my top two though. I really like Reichenbach clear for stiff applications, and Double Helix Zephyr for soft application. Aether is really nice too, but It is reactive so I don't use it as much. I have heard rave reviews for Tag Clarity too, but I have never tried it since I have been happy with the ones I just mentioned.
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2013-11-01, 2:45pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 23, 2007
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 1,332
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Here is some quick chemistry: silver in glass passes yellow and bounces blue. This is true in fuming, in transparent silvered colors, as well as with clear glass over silver foil. The reason it looks more silvery when the clear is applied cooler is that less of the silver is sublimating into the clear. When you apply the clear hotter, the two interact more, chemically, and you see the golden effect.
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"In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice; in practice there is." ~ Chuck Reid
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2013-11-01, 3:36pm
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Hot Glass Neophyte
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Join Date: Aug 06, 2009
Location: Mt. Pleasant, SC
Posts: 3,293
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Thank you Jenny. That is a neat explanation.
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2013-11-04, 11:51am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 05, 2005
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
Posts: 317
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Hey Everyone! I came across so I thought I would put in my two cents. CiM has been my favorite clear for a long while since I feel like I can trust it with most all glasses knowing it will get along without cracks. I received a batch recently and noticed it was much scummier than before. I put in a call to Kathy and she had said the formula is still the same. I pickled my glass since I have the means to do so and that fixed the scumminess. You do still need to take care not to over heat thin pieces like stringer though. I posted a quick blog on pickling with a few adjustments from the Frantz tutorial. Here is the link to my blog post http://www.geneabeads.blogspot.com/2...r-crystal.html xo Genea
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Genea Crivello
"Enlightened Art for the Awakened Soul"
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2013-11-05, 12:10am
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Naysayer
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Join Date: Sep 22, 2009
Posts: 1,203
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Well that's just weird then, as I said I used it since it came out, but last year I (and others above) have the trouble of scum with some rods. My rods are still wrapped before I use them.
Honestly some rods bubble as it hits the flame, before it's even worked or hot, you know to pull the first bit off. I've since found a use for those rods, so I'm ok lol.
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2013-11-05, 7:40pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 03, 2006
Location: GA
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I love the super clear but hate regular CIM clear. I too use it underneath colors to stretch them.
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2013-11-09, 1:11pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 05, 2005
Location: Kansas City, Missouri
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Yeah, I have experienced more problems with scum since some of the older batches as well. I messaged Kathy and she had told me the formula was the same. Weird. I pickled a bit longer and the rods stay clear unless over heated(like when you heat a thin tip of glass). Awww sorry to hear that :/ I am thinking about trying some of DH's clears and I heard Uroboro's also has a 104 that is supposed to be really nice. I am on the hunt for crystal clear glass always so I will definitely try what's out there.
I just recently used CiM clear as a core under Sunburst Coral and it works amazingly to keep the huge focals from cracking! Maybe you can use what you have for things like that?? xo Genea
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Genea Crivello
"Enlightened Art for the Awakened Soul"
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2013-11-10, 10:35am
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Beadmaking.nl
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Join Date: Nov 14, 2005
Location: Heerhugowaard, Netherlands
Posts: 442
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I have had always scum with the cim clear. Now I use reichenbach clear and the superclear 006 stringers.
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Greetings from the Netherlands,
Margriet.
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2013-11-11, 3:56pm
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Shelarious
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Join Date: Jul 18, 2007
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 1,953
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I pulled some of my CiM clear yesterday and was using it for a base, but it was so incredibly bubbly I didn't know how safe it would be. It's kind of a neat effect, actually. I know you are supposed to work it cool & I admittedly kind of roasted it.
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2013-11-12, 12:05am
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Naysayer
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Join Date: Sep 22, 2009
Posts: 1,203
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lol I know, that's why I like it, it reminds me of baking soda beads without using it
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