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Jelveh Designs - Glass Beads Torched One-by-One

Beads of Courage


 

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  #1  
Old 2014-05-11, 5:28pm
isaberg isaberg is offline
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Join Date: Apr 08, 2010
Location: The warmer half of MN
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Default Coring/lining/Dapping tutorials?

Hi there-

I love the silver-lined bead hole look, but I've not been able to find much info on LE - mostly a "I just read all the tutorials" comment here and there. Where do I find out how to do this? What books, tutorials, or websites do I want to check out? I've looked at the websites of the commonly mentioned tools, and all it says is "comes with DVD" or similar. But what supplies do I need? So confused! HELP, oh wise(er) ones!
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  #2  
Old 2014-05-11, 7:43pm
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Heather Behrendt Heather Behrendt is offline
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I made this little video tutorial years ago. I hope it helps

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0BUn55TXm8
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  #3  
Old 2014-05-11, 7:52pm
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MistyCherie MistyCherie is offline
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Hopefully this is okay to post like this. It is an openly/publicly shared tutorial written by Tink from 2004 that I saved from ages ago:

"Riveted and Silver Core Bead Tutorial

As presented at AGI 2004...

Riveted Bead Caps

Supplies

Jeweler’s saw (or glass saw, for small diameter tubing)
Dapping Block and Punches
Steel Block
Torch, Charcoal Block and Heatproof Surface
Pickle
Hand Punch or drill
Transfer Punches
Pre-cut metal disks from Rio Grande (24 or 26 gauge)
Leather Mallet or Hammer
Jeweler’s Files
Buffing wheel and polish (White Diamond and Red Rouge)

For an average bead, we use ½” disks. Use a transfer punch to mark the center of each disk. Use a hand punch or drill to make a hole in the center of each disk. The tubing should be a snug fit through the hole in the disk. Put the disk into the dapping block. Choose a punch that fits the hole in the dapping block and use a hammer to hit the punch a few times until the dome is a well-formed cap that fits nicely on your bead.

Place a cap on each end of the bead. Insert tubing through the bead and both caps. Mark and cut the tubing so that you end up with 2-3mm of the tubing sticking out of each cap. Don’t forget to allow for the length you’ll lose when you file the ends of the cut tubing! If you anneal and pickle your tubing before the riveting process, the ends will flare more easily.

Working on your steel block, begin with a dapping punch slightly larger than the inside dimensions of the tubing and use a hammer to gently start to flare the end of the tubing with a couple of taps. Turn the bead over and flare the opposite end. Return to the original end and repeat this sequence using increasingly larger punches.

After the rivet is flared to your liking, polish the caps. Take care not to heat the bead too much in this process; it can unanneal your bead and/or cause it to crack. Use Emery paper to remove any scratches, then polish.


Silver Core Beads

Supplies

7/16” OD Stainless Steel Tubing coated with bead release
11 mm diamond core drill bit and Dremel®
Jeweler’s Saw
½” diameter sterling silver tubing
Torch, Charcoal Block and Heatproof Surface
Pickle
Corrugated cardboard
Dapping Punches
Leather Mallet or Hammer
Steel Block
Jeweler’s files
Buffing and Polishing Supplies (White Diamond and Red Rouge)

Make a bead on the stainless tubing. Experiment with various widths and thicknesses, but we’ve found that beads less than 9mm wide and 6mm thick tend to break during this process. Anneal. Use the core drill in water to open up the bead until the sterling tubing just fits through the hole.

Cut the tubing so that 2mm extends on each side of the bead. File the ends until they are smooth. Anneal and pickle the tubing.

Make a hole in the cardboard that is slightly larger than the diameter of the tubing. Place the cardboard on top of your steel block and place the tubing into the hole.

Choose a dapping punch that is slightly bigger than the diameter of the tubing. Use the leather mallet to tap the punch into the tubing 3 or 4 times or until the silver starts to flare. Turn over and repeat. Choose a punch that is 3 or 4 sizes larger and repeat until the tubing is nicely flared.

Turn the large punch over and use the flat side against the silver to finish hammering the silver down flush with the bead.

Use Emery paper to remove any scratches, then polish.

We first learned of these techniques through the articles listed below. We are indebted to Bronwen and Susan, and very grateful for their generosity! It still took a lot of trial and error, and lots of practice to end up with something we liked. We finally developed methods for creating these beads that suited us. We have formulated this demo for folks who, like us, have little or no metalsmithing experience.

Lapidary Journal, Oct. 2002 – Capping Beads Step by Step by Bronwen Heilman

Lapidary Journal, June 2001 – Silver Core Beads by Susan Silvy

We purchase our silver and some jewelry supplies from:

Rio Grande Santa Fe Jewelers Supply
www.riogrande.com www.sfjssantafe.com
800.545.6566 800.659.3835

Metalliferous Metalliferous has a great
www.metalliferous.com selection of goodies, at
888.944.0909 pretty good prices

www.widgetsupply.com Dapping blocks/punches at low prices:
Brass Dapping Block - BKH38 - Price: $19.97
There are various punch sets available

We found the hand punch at Harbor Freight Tools. It comes with seven punch/dies ranging in size from 2mm to 7mm.
ITEM 44060-1VGA
It’s $16.99, but often goes on sale for $11.99
www.harborfreight.com

Tubing Reference List

For Riveted Caps --
Tubing for beads made on a 3/32” mandrel: 2 or 3mm OD
Tubing for beads made on a 1/8” mandrel: 3 or 4mm OD

For Silver Core Beads –
Some folks use sterling tubing that is the same size as their mandrel. I find that the bead release makes the bead hole a little sloppy for a good fit. Your mandrel should be slightly smaller than your tubing."
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Last edited by MistyCherie; 2014-05-11 at 8:04pm. Reason: Clarification about original public sharing of tutorial
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  #4  
Old 2014-05-12, 7:50am
isaberg isaberg is offline
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You all are fabulous! Heather, I love your video - it's so very clear! And Misty, the step-by-step and supplies and supplier lists are invaluable. I'm feeling like I might actually be brave enough to try!
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  #5  
Old 2014-05-14, 12:13am
Glitzy Glass Studio Glitzy Glass Studio is offline
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Thank you both for these tutorials
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