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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2015-02-25, 11:11pm
LunadelaOssa LunadelaOssa is offline
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Default How do I determine the size of my work table?

My head is spinning. I purchased a second hand solid core door, 30" wide and I can have it cut down in size if needed. How in the world do I figure out what size of work surface I'll need? Do I wait for equipment and see how it all may fit? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much.

Claire
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  #2  
Old 2015-02-26, 2:00am
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I think it depends on what you plan on having on your work table and how you like to work. If it were me, I'd definitely wait until you get your equipment before you cut down your door.

The type of torch will have some effect on how you set up your workspace e.g., a Hothead is more of an upright flame and doesn't need a lot of real estate; my Scorpion can throw a flame right across my table if needed (so I need to keep that area clear).

I like lots of tools (and have lots of tools), but have had to find other ways to store them than on my work table otherwise they take over and I'm forever looking for the right tool - my 'always in use' tools sit to one side within easy reach.

Most of the things I use frequently are on my table - different brands of clear glass in wine racks, containers to hold murrini, stringer containers, silver glass shorts and so on.

There is also a set of stacking drawers that hold metal foils, scissors, notebooks and pencils, rarely used tools and other bits and pieces that are sort of out of the way, but to hand when I need them.

My work table is big enough so I can have tutorials beside me while I work.

It's a huge work table, probably 36" wide if not more and about the length of a door. I love it and can't think of anything I'd rather have! It gives me plenty of storage space underneath where I have wine racks with silver glass and other favourites.

Having said all that - I am a messy worker, have heaps of studio space and couldn't work neat and tidy to save my life. If you have a look in the Studio subforum, you'll find stacks of photos and great ideas on setting up work areas, I'm sure you'll discover a set up you'll be happy with.
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Old 2015-02-26, 7:09am
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I have a solid door as my work table, but never thought about cutting it down. I had my chili pepper set on tiles at the end, and generally filled it up with tools and various other things. Now I have two torches set up, so I'm really glad I left it full size, have moved the CP to a rolling cart and limit the tools I leave out to those I use on most every bead, and only get others out as needed.
If you don't need to cut it to use it, I'd leave it alone until you are positive about what will work for you.
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Old 2015-02-26, 7:55am
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If you want glass within arm's reach but out of reach of the torch, a deeper work surface is helpful.
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Old 2015-02-26, 8:52am
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If your table is against a wall or close, like mine based on ventilation system, make sure if you have dual port torch, the flame does not hit the wall or go up the vent trap....had to make addition on my bench when got Bravo.
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Old 2015-02-26, 10:47am
LunadelaOssa LunadelaOssa is offline
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Hi All - Thank you for all your replies. @Lynn, my table will be close or against the wall like yours. Thanks for the tip about the flame, I'll be using a Nortel minor and I don't know how long of a flame it throws. @Eileen, what have you used on the door to prevent burning? I became concerned when DH mentioned that the door I picked up has a shiny finish. Originally I figured I would protect the area around the torch but now I'm not sure. And it's so darn heavy on it's own. What have you used for legs?
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Old 2015-02-26, 5:33pm
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I found some used base cabinets to set the door on. When I first set up, I put polyurethane on the door to seal it, and a piece of sheet metal under the torch to work on. I somehow got some hot glass off the metal though, and it sure did stink. Now I have used some Rustoleum heat resistant paint (for painting BBQ grills, etc.) but still have metal in the torch area. This was in progress testing where to set the torch, etc. Some people use tile, or larger pieces of metal.

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Old 2015-02-27, 8:32am
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Very interesting. I have been looking for a surface big enough for 2 torches. Has anyone used a metal door? I just saw a bunch of wood doors at Habitat for $20.00 each.
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Old 2015-02-27, 12:26pm
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Paula, I didn't see one that had a flat surface in my search, but I don't see why not. I was just looking at Habitat and other places with 2nd hand or 2nds, so maybe I had a more limited choice though.
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Old 2015-02-27, 7:58pm
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@Paula - We ordered a metal door for the garage to house entry when we built our house and it was flat. We ended up doing some searching to find it. If you could find a blank (without holes for the hardware) I don't see why that wouldn't work.

@Eileen - Thanks for including a photo, so helpful. I am considering either painting the door with the heat paint as you have done or having it clad in either cold rolled steel or aluminum. The next decision is the height, I read a post from a man who has been doing this for forty years now and he stands while he torches. I'm thinking I may set the table at a 42" height, and find a 30" barstool.
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Old 2015-02-27, 9:55pm
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I have a tall stool, and since the base is made from old base cabinets, it is kitchen counter height. I can stand or sit comfortably, although I did put a simple stool under the counter to rest my feet on sometimes.
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Old 2015-02-28, 9:22am
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Lots of folks use cement backer board for the bench surface. Others get a sheet of metal from the local heating and ventilation company. I got some 3 feet by 10 feet for $18.


Then I stumbled on to three pieces of pool table slate and that is my current bench top.

As to how big you are going to want it that probably has more to do with how much space you have.

If you hold a 16 inch rod of glass in each of your hands and spread your arms out that will give you a good idea of how big of an area you will want. Figure one and a half to two and half feet for the kiln on one side or the other and that's a ball park estimate.
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Old 2015-03-03, 9:32pm
LunadelaOssa LunadelaOssa is offline
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Speedslug, thank you for your posts, you are so innovative! I am feeling so much more relaxed about the studio set up. At last, I have decided on a surface for my table. There was a notch cut from the door's previous life, so my husband will be trimming the door along that edge. It will be wrapped in steel and I've found someone to do the fabrication. Next I'll need to figure out what I will use directly in front of the torch. From the posts that I've read it seems a dark material is a good choice.
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  #14  
Old 2015-03-04, 4:26am
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Yes dark is the better answer. One look at trying to see that light blue flame with anything white behind it and you will understand the definition of invisible.

I have seen some videos with one inch grids drawn in white lines on that dark back ground. That can help with estimating sizes when you are trying to make somewhat consistent sets of beads until you get the hang of it. I have heard talk of using precut lengths of glass to help them get the same size bead six beads in a row.

Lighting is important too. If you are working in front of a window the light changes form morning to afternoon and that can give you grief if you are trying to reproduce something you made last night.
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  #15  
Old 2015-03-04, 9:07am
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My previous studio was built from a kitchen base cabinet with a tiled top. I did use BBQ spray paint to create a 6 inch wide strip that went from the torch face to the back wall and up the back wall a couple of feet. The black background really helped to see the torch flame.

I liked the kitchen counter height, you can sit on a shop stool (or bar chair) if needed and also comfortable for standing. I've seen some set-ups for tall people where they actually put a concrete block on the table and put their torch on top of that to get everything at a comfortable working height.

Ergonomics suggests that setting your workstation up so that your elbows are bent roughly 90 degrees and parallel to the work surface while manipulating your glass would be ideal. Think about where the flame needs to be for you to get that position and work backwards from there to set table height.

Please post pictures as you go along, it's fun for the rest of us to see and get good ideas to too.
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Old 2015-03-04, 11:06am
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Oh and I picked up a trick from Bear Foot Arts, the originator of the Electric Mandrel Spinner.

He sets up a small mirror at an angle that lets him see the face of the torch and also the underside of the flame.

It has really helped me with judging the height of the mandrel and bead when working under the flame.

Sometimes my old eyes don't do the depth perception thing so good no more and this has helped a great deal at the last hour of a torching session when my eyes get tired of trying to focus through the flame.
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Old 2015-03-11, 6:39am
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Lots of great tips in this thread! Thanks!!
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Old 2015-03-11, 6:51am
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I made my studio in a caravan, and had my work table cut to size from wood, then added legs and an aluminium sheet. It is set in a corner and extends to both sides.
My advice is: go as big as you can! It is always about personal preference, and I love to have a lot of room around me to leave stuff. May also have to do with the fact that I work both in boro and soft glass, and that I do projects with a lot of glass colors in one go.

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Old 2015-03-14, 5:17am
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I found one of these on ebay, it's about the size of a metal door:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-St...item43d47904e7

and screwed it to an old table I found. the table was shorter, but didn't seem to matter.

Of course, I'm a "spreader outer" and need a giant surface...I have another stainless table for the kiln...(wouldn't want it to infringe on the work space)(yes, I have long arms.)
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Old 2015-03-14, 12:57pm
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I also use cement backer board as a table top (I happened to have a sheet lying around). I spray painted the area behind the flame black for visibility.
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Old 2015-03-17, 12:51am
LunadelaOssa LunadelaOssa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedslug View Post
Oh and I picked up a trick from Bear Foot Arts, the originator of the Electric Mandrel Spinner.

He sets up a small mirror at an angle that lets him see the face of the torch and also the underside of the flame.

It has really helped me with judging the height of the mandrel and bead when working under the flame.

Sometimes my old eyes don't do the depth perception thing so good no more and this has helped a great deal at the last hour of a torching session when my eyes get tired of trying to focus through the flame.
Oh Phil, your old eyes and my old brain. In re-reading this I understand, great tip. I'll have to give it a go and I have just the mirror for it.
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Old 2015-03-21, 12:35pm
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30" is a good size and there's no need to cut it. It gives enough spare space to place the ventilation to get the fumes right from the end of the flame. Additional side depth makes it easier to place a kiln and install narrow but "up the wall" shelves or pipe system to store glass and other numerous "LOL" stuff to the sides of the "flame sensitive" space. It is not a problem to cut some wood - you need just a saw. But if after some time you realize you miss those, say. 2 inches. adding them may be a pain in.... well, you guess. It is not impossible, of course, but you'll need a saw, screws, screwdriver, ruler, drill, etc

If you have enough space, I would suggest you leave the full width.
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Old 2015-03-21, 5:17pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charmaine View Post
I found one of these on ebay, it's about the size of a metal door:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-St...item43d47904e7

and screwed it to an old table I found. the table was shorter, but didn't seem to matter.

Of course, I'm a "spreader outer" and need a giant surface...I have another stainless table for the kiln...(wouldn't want it to infringe on the work space)(yes, I have long arms.)
What a steal! (Pun intended.) I went looking for something like this early last year, and the restaurant resellers wanted $800 for a 30"x8'. Needless to say, I am still looking for a suitable fire proof counter top.
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Old 2015-03-21, 5:52pm
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When I spoke with the guy that would be cladding the door, he thought it would be best to cut off the side with the cutout. I would have loved to do stainless steel, but not willing to even pay the $300 for that. I dropped the door off yesterday, they will be cladding it with 18 gauge steel for $100 and that includes delivery next week of the door to my home. I'm beginning to plan the base for the "table". Exciting, as I will be building it myself. I love wood, I remember playing in a neighbor's yard with the remnants that were used in their remodel. Never happier than wielding that hammer and just nailing things together.
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Old 2015-03-28, 7:33am
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I will be re-doing my lampwork section of my studio this summer. There are some great tips here. I use a drafting chair to sit on. It goes up higher then regular office type chairs. I don't think I could sit on a stool for hours. I need a cushy seat!!
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