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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #511  
Old 2006-03-07, 6:51am
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Here are yesterdays pendants. The blue and orange one on the far left was a mistake, but one I learned something from: don't make your dots of NS ELY so thick that the NS Orange dots underneath can't show through! I do kind of like the way the round pendants turned out though. Still working on those Smiley hearts as well.

Eric
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  #512  
Old 2006-03-08, 7:11am
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Looking good Eric! I like the striped cane around the round pendants, especially the one where the cane is also the loop. Loops flumux me. I try one every week or so, so I guess it's like anything else...I'll get it someday!

Can anyone give me some advice on the NS Exotics? They look great in the pictures but I didn't have much success with a bead using Blue Exotic. First, it bubbled like crazy, causing pitting in the surface. I encased it, which took care of the pitting but the bead cracked in the kiln. Figures, I didn't read the NS stuff about the exotics before I ordered some. Are they chrome colors?

Also, can those of you using concentrators and boro tell me if there are colors you are having trouble with? I'm using 2 concentrators, but I suspect that my flame is reducing. I got Doug Remschneider's video Boro Bead Magic and there are some great suggestions in there, so maybe I just need to do my encasing a little differently. Or, maybe I just need to go out and get a tank of O2.

I'm getting ready to deal with the building code guy for my township. I want to have lines installed through my outside wall, so I can hook up my propane properly.
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  #513  
Old 2006-03-08, 7:16am
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I know some people have good results on concentrators with boro, but I personally never use anything but tanked oxygen with boro. Yes, it's more expensive, but think of how much glass you are wasting if you keep making things that you don't like...
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  #514  
Old 2006-03-08, 7:26am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cosmo
I know some people have good results on concentrators with boro, but I personally never use anything but tanked oxygen with boro. Yes, it's more expensive, but think of how much glass you are wasting if you keep making things that you don't like...
So true. It's not even the expense of the tanked O2, it's the hauling it around. DH is not excited about helping me, although he will tip an empty tank into the back of my truck. I'm the one who wrestles the full tanks out of the truck and up two stairs. I'm glad nobody has that on film, since it must look pretty comical - me vs. the hand truck.

Ok, you talked me into it...I really am going to go get a tank! Maybe not the big honker, but a tank.
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  #515  
Old 2006-03-08, 7:27am
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If nothing else, then get a long hose and leave your tank downstairs. A welding shop should be able to make a hose any length you want.
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  #516  
Old 2006-03-08, 7:42am
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Originally Posted by Cosmo
If nothing else, then get a long hose and leave your tank downstairs. A welding shop should be able to make a hose any length you want.
Chad - it's two very small steps from the garage into the house. They just seem to get MUCH BIGGER when hauling the hand truck up them. Besides, DH would notice if I had to leave the door open for my hose! I'm hoping to have the new tank escape notice for at least a little while so I don't have to explain why I'm bringing in another tank a couple of weeks after Ibought a 2nd concentrator.

Ideally, I'd store the tank outside and will do that when I get whatever approval I need to have the lines installed.
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  #517  
Old 2006-03-08, 8:37am
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Hiya tanya.
I bet ur inspector is going to want a stable platform for the tanks to sit on, ie concrete slab etc. Hell prolly require that you secure the tank in an upright position, a simple chain on the wall will solve this. As for the plumbing, use T-grade hose, an drill a hole through the wall to ur studio. If you are the only person in the shop, i do not reccommend going the distance and getting copper lines.(i suspect the inspector will sujest this) This is SUPER expensive, mine cost almost 1400$. Hope this helps.
B
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  #518  
Old 2006-03-08, 8:46am
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I know our local code specifies that gas lines that pass through a wall must be inside metal. For us, we are running hoses but putting a metal sleeve around them where they go through the wall. The inspector said that was perfectly fine.
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  #519  
Old 2006-03-08, 1:21pm
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Chad - thanks for the info. That gives me a place to start. When I had my bulk mapp gas outside the window I had it sort of "wired" to the screws in the window frame. Prolly not what the code guy wants to see! Don't suppose he'd consider letting me chain it to my composter...? Seriously though, I'll start looking into a solid base and way to attach the tanks to the wall. The good news is that my work area is just on the other side of the wall (I work below a window), so it's not very far at all to run lines. The guy who is going to install them said he'll also put in a shut off valve inside and a regulator. I've only talked detail to him about the propane line so far, although I did mention I wanted a line for oxygen as well.
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  #520  
Old 2006-03-08, 1:21pm
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I'm off to try Dougie Pink!
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  #521  
Old 2006-03-08, 1:23pm
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Hey "Queen of the Jiggly Butts"...what a way to address someone, but I am sorry - I don't know your name...
Your beads are gorgeous!! Any way you would share the colors you used for "Petite Carnival", or "Dream Swirls"??! I am quite sure I dreamed about them last night!
Inquiring minds, and all that...
Valerie
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  #522  
Old 2006-03-08, 1:28pm
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Val, that's Karin... I'm sure she'd love to share her recipes... she's a giver. *crossing fingers*
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  #523  
Old 2006-03-08, 2:34pm
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This picture isn't that great. They are actually darker than that in normal lighting. This is about what they look like in bright sun light.

The one on the left was made with a core of clear, wrapped with a stringer of NS star white, and then wrapped with the following cane: NS ELY over GA Ruby strike 4 over a 10 mm kimax rod.
The one on the right was made with the same as the one above but I didn't wrap the core with the NS star white this time.

Both hearts were garaged at 975 for a couple of hours before being struck at 1075 for 45 minutes. I think I may need to lower my garage temperature a bit, or maybe back off on the length of time that I am annealing them. I would like to have them be a little lighter.

Eric
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  #524  
Old 2006-03-08, 2:42pm
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Is there any chance that we could get another category added for "Boro Tips Techniques and Questions?"

Eric
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  #525  
Old 2006-03-08, 3:19pm
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Yeah, we need our own section...

I'd lower the temp just a tad too Eric. Otherwise, they look awesome. Just a tad livery... no biggie, that's easily corrected.
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  #526  
Old 2006-03-08, 3:22pm
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Hey Eric - those colors are looking nice to me...and I love your suggestion for a new category...what do you guys think?
Thanks Brent for filling in the blank...
Queen Karin - pretty please, with sugar on top??!
Val
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  #527  
Old 2006-03-08, 3:27pm
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Hey Brent,

Which one should I lower? The garaging temp or the annealing temp. Or, should I do both?

Thanks much,

Eric
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  #528  
Old 2006-03-08, 4:18pm
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Eric... the annealing temp. It's actually called striking temp. It's in the annealing range though. You are doing both at the same time. Lower it to about 1060 and see if that produces a nicer color. It's all about tweeking it and finding what works in your kiln.
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  #529  
Old 2006-03-08, 5:56pm
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Thanks! I am off to make a new program for the trusty Skutt. (Boy, the sounds kind of wrong somehow...)

Eric
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  #530  
Old 2006-03-08, 6:37pm
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Eric - the hearts look great. A lot of my colors come out looking pretty dark too. Perhaps I should be garaging everything at a lower temp. I've been setting the kiln to around 1040 degrees.

Yes - we really need our own section. It's tough going through this whole thread to find something.
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  #531  
Old 2006-03-08, 7:26pm
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Tanya, I just watched a video on pendants I rented from TVR (?) and I think it was Doug R makes his pendants, sets them aside, and makes a bead on a mandrel then attaches them with a hot seal. I tried it and for now it sure works alot better and much easier than trying to make a loop freestyle. I've only used it with some soft glass pendants so far. I am boro challenged big time right now, looking forward to Brents class in May so I don't feel like I'm wasting my $$ when playing with boro!
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  #532  
Old 2006-03-08, 7:42pm
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Hi Valerie - I haven't seen that video - I'll have to look for it. I can highly recommend Doug's Boro Bead Magic DVD. Laurie Copeland does her loops that way too, except she makes the bead on a mandrel first, garages it, then makes the pendant and attaches them. You're right - it is a lot easier than making a freehand loop. But I'm still seriously loop challenged. I think my biggest problem is making sure the seal is hot enough. It's not that easy to heat up again once attached without really beating up the bead release. You're taking a class with Brent? Lucky you - he'll have you making great loops in no time!
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  #533  
Old 2006-03-09, 3:36am
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I'll be showing you guys 3 ways to make a loop without cheating...

Tanya, If you're soaking at 1040, you may be too low... if they are too dark, you may not be using the right combination of colors... try encasing white with some Amber Purple, Double Amber Purple, Triple passion or Silver Creek. It really brightens it up.
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  #534  
Old 2006-03-09, 3:50am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tanya
Yes - we really need our own section. It's tough going through this whole thread to find something.
I agree. Boro: Tips, Techniques, and Questions, like a subsection.
Brent, can't you make this happen?
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  #535  
Old 2006-03-09, 5:24am
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Maybe it can happen... PM Jason... he has all the power. I can just move stuff around. I can't get too far into the system to make changes or do much of anything really. I have the power to edit what you see, nothing else.
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  #536  
Old 2006-03-09, 6:47am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Smiley
Maybe it can happen... PM Jason... he has all the power. I can just move stuff around. I can't get too far into the system to make changes or do much of anything really. I have the power to edit what you see, nothing else.
Where's Dwaine when we need him? I'm sure he can hack into the software and make any categories we want...

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  #537  
Old 2006-03-09, 8:31am
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  #538  
Old 2006-03-09, 11:10am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Smiley
I'll be showing you guys 3 ways to make a loop without cheating...

Tanya, If you're soaking at 1040, you may be too low... if they are too dark, you may not be using the right combination of colors... try encasing white with some Amber Purple, Double Amber Purple, Triple passion or Silver Creek. It really brightens it up.
Thanks Brent. I was pretty happy with most of what came out of the kiln this morning. Even though I accidentally made Dougie Pink with Aurora instead of Warm Yellow. I'm definitely going to up the temperature for my Triple Passion stuff.
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  #539  
Old 2006-03-09, 12:27pm
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Is stuff supposed to strike while garaging at 975? I just peeked in my kiln this morning, and I noticed that a bead made with GA Ruby Strike 4 that was CLEAR when it went in is already pretty red. It has been in there about 3-4 hours.

Thanks,

Eric
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Old 2006-03-09, 1:55pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e. mort
Is stuff supposed to strike while garaging at 975? I just peeked in my kiln this morning, and I noticed that a bead made with GA Ruby Strike 4 that was CLEAR when it went in is already pretty red. It has been in there about 3-4 hours.

Thanks,

Eric
I think it depends on the color. Seems a little low for a Ruby, but I don't really know. I suppose a lower temperature for a longer length of time might have the same effect as a higher temperature for less time. Up to a point, anyway. It's nice to know the Ruby will strike at a lower temperature because that might be a way to avoid livery-ness.

Apparently, to retain the best blues, stuff should be garaged at a lower temperature, like 975. This keeps the blues from changing into other colors like greens. And, from what I've read on here, a higher temperature is best for brilliant purples, with Triple Passion at least.

Which leads me to a question.... How do you manage garaging vs. annealing, especially when working with colors that like different temperatures to strike? Do you use similar colors in any given session? Or, do you use the more kiln sensitive colors toward the end of a session so it doesn't sit in the kiln too long?
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