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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2010-09-25, 11:57am
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Default cold weld punty?

Can some tell me how to do this?
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Old 2010-09-25, 12:33pm
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Your object (pendant, marble etc..) grab a rod (usually clear) get the end just barely tacky on the rod and just barely tacky on the object and gently put the two together. When you are ready to take it off it will come off with just a gentle tap, and you just fire polish off any little bits the rod may have left behind.
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Old 2010-09-25, 4:07pm
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Thank you, I knew it was something like that. Just wasn't sure.
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Old 2010-09-25, 6:49pm
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unless of course you like me and "tacky" isnt quite tacky enough and said marble goes bouncing across the table and onto the floor attacking the ankles of everybody else in the room...
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Old 2010-09-26, 2:59am
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As long as there is a substantial difference in the temperature of the two glasses as you put them together you will get a cold seal. If you'll let the piece you want to hold (the marble, the pendant, whatever) cool down so that it's not glowing and you heat the rod up to something less than white hot, you can tack it in place and it will pop back off. Some folks heat the rod up really hot, then blow on the surface just before tacking it on to for a "skin." I find it works best if you just put it on and not wiggle it around after you attach it. Just line it up, touch it firmly and let cool. Like everything else in this odd obsession of ours, it just takes some practice.
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Old 2010-09-26, 3:21am
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As Jamie says, it's the temperature difference between the two pieces that counts - and that keeps your work intact when you break them apart.

In furnace glassblowing, we are taught that the punty (bit of glass that will hold the work) should be the consistency of bubblegum. We draw a screaming hot bit of glass from the furnace, then roll *its sides* briefly on the marver to take it from runny to firm. This keeps the tip a little warmer and softer.

Another furnace technique that may be useful for larger lampworked pieces is the "crown punty" - it looks like the old-style crimped beer or soda caps, and only touches the work in a circle of spots. Theoretically this holds a larger piece with less chance of leaving a big mark (or taking a big chunk out of your work!)

Be sure to keep flame-annealing a piece on a punty, including the joint. If your work cools too much, it can pop off, or the punty can start cracking. But don't heat so much that the pieces fuse - the area should never glow strongly.

To free the piece - heat the area of the join, then chill *one point* at the join - this starts a microscopic crack along the seam. Furnace workers use a metal or putty knife to chill right at the join. A drop of water on the punty glass (NOT your piece) is also used to start a crack at the join. It is NOT necessary to chilll all the way around most joints - and this is probably even more true in lampwork, where the scale is smaller. Chill one point, then rap the punty rod firmly. The work should come free, Make sure you've planned how to catch/hold the still-hot piece!

In furnace blowing class, we did a "relay race" exercise - transferring a blown-glass globe from punty to punty as many times as we could. This is still the best and quickest way to learn how to do this. The timing will be different for each glass and the heat available. Also different for very thick or solid pieces vs. blown shapes.
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Old 2010-09-27, 4:32am
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I really like to heat the punty rod and then roll the end so it tapers, before I heat and put it on an item. , you get a smaller spot to have to fire polish later. If you are going to be working on an item on a punty for a while, make sure you go back and flash it through the flame once in a while, or you will have that items enjoying the force of gravity...

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Old 2010-09-27, 6:34pm
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Be careful if you use a boro pontil for a soft glass object. You might reconsider and use stainless rod, instead, if there is any chance of leaving some boro behind.
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