Making and Anodizing Niobium Beadcaps Tutorial

[EvanH]

The time has come to retire the silver core tutorial and post the new one. I've updated the tutorials page with a new tutorial on making and anodizing niobium beadcaps. The new one is available at www.dawnandevan.com/tutorials.htm . Please stop on by, take a look and drop me some feedback on this tutorial either here or via Evans E-MAIL.

I hope you enjoy -


Evan

[Heidi von Frozenfyre]

You rock Evan

[jokersdesign]

I like how you did the other tutorial better. I could down load it and view it with out have to watch my internet speed while doing other bandwith intensive applications.

I also could change the video size for better viewing.

I tried to download the flash five with flash save it didn't work, so I can only view the video on the internet.

I then used Camtasia Studio to capture the video off your website for later viewing, but the video resolution is small for my eyes.

Anyways I got the video download and captured to my computer so I can view it anytime. The tutorial was great I really like it. I wonder is alumium tube and Anodizing dye could be used to make bead caps instead of the $$$ niobium?

good job again, keep up with the open source tutorials!

[Blueflameart]

That was great Evan ..... keep it up! Awesome colors!

[EvanH]

Originally Posted by jokersdesign

I like how you did the other tutorial better. I could down load it and view it with out have to watch my internet speed while doing other bandwith intensive applications.

I also could change the video size for better viewing.

I tried to download the flash five with flash save it didn't work, so I can only view the video on the internet.

I then used Camtasia Studio to capture the video off your website for later viewing, but the video resolution is small for my eyes.

Anyways I got the video download and captured to my computer so I can view it anytime. The tutorial was great I really like it. I wonder is alumium tube and Anodizing dye could be used to make bead caps instead of the $$$ niobium?

good job again, keep up with the open source tutorials!

Sorry for the inconvience of not being able to easily download this one. I did this one as flash video not to restrict the ability to download, but to increase the cross platform compatibility. I had a number of people whom could not view the previous tutorial at all (I work on a PC, but there are many apple,etc...) , so I spent quite a bit of time trying to find a solution to make it more widely available. I do have high resolution full screen DVD's of the tutorial available for anyone that would like one. Check out the tools and accessories gallery on our website.

Camtasia is a great tool, I use it all the time for recording screen info for teaching others how to do things.

As far as Aluminum anodizing, the process is somewhat similar. Here are the major differences. Aluminum requires a corrosive acid bath for anodizing. Niobium simply requires a slightly conductive bath, you could use CocaCola... I use a little soap and plain tap water. Aluminum uses low voltage 12 volts at higher currents, Niobium uses relatively high voltage for it's anodizing. Aluminum requires a dye to achieve color. Niobium does not, the color is caused by an interference pattern similar to oil on water causing colors on the street. Aluminum requires that the porous oxide layer be sealed once impregnated with dye to be permanent. The agent used to seal the aluminum pores is a toxic carcinogen. You need to be very careful when working with this. Aluminum is also much softer than niobium and quite a bit more brittle. All in all niobium is more expensive to start, but it has a lot of positives going for it when used for a jewelry application, easily formed, slow to work harden, takes a great surface texture, etc... . I can go in a lot more detail if you would like, let me know if you have additional questions and we can go from there.


Thanks for watching and I'm glad you enjoyed it!

Evan

[jokersdesign]

Originally Posted by EvanH

Sorry for the inconvience of not being able to easily download this one. I did this one as flash video not to restrict the ability to download, but to increase the cross platform compatibility. I had a number of people whom could not view the previous tutorial at all (I work on a PC, but there are many apple,etc...) , so I spent quite a bit of time trying to find a solution to make it more widely available. I do have high resolution full screen DVD's of the tutorial available for anyone that would like one. Check out the tools and accessories gallery on our website.

Camtasia is a great tool, I use it all the time for recording screen info for teaching others how to do things.

As far as Aluminum anodizing, the process is somewhat similar. Here are the major differences. Aluminum requires a corrosive acid bath for anodizing. Niobium simply requires a slightly conductive bath, you could use CocaCola... I use a little soap and plain tap water. Aluminum uses low voltage 12 volts at higher currents, Niobium uses relatively high voltage for it's anodizing. Aluminum requires a dye to achieve color. Niobium does not, the color is caused by an interference pattern similar to oil on water causing colors on the street. Aluminum requires that the porous oxide layer be sealed once impregnated with dye to be permanent. The agent used to seal the aluminum pores is a toxic carcinogen. You need to be very careful when working with this. Aluminum is also much softer than niobium and quite a bit more brittle. All in all niobium is more expensive to start, but it has a lot of positives going for it when used for a jewelry application, easily formed, slow to work harden, takes a great surface texture, etc... . I can go in a lot more detail if you would like, let me know if you have additional questions and we can go from there.


Thanks for watching and I'm glad you enjoyed it!

Evan

Dont worry about not being able to download the video the flash video works great. Might want to either make the video a little bigger or go with windows media player for windows user and quick time to cover mac users.

Well I dont want to realy play with toxic carcinogen. Can other metals like cooper or brass be anodizing?

Aslo where would someone get a anodizing machine? Is this machine the same as a electroplating machine used to plate gold and silver jewelry, or is that a different machine all together?

I had one question that is off topic but though you would know the answer. What is the difference between a electroplating machine that can do Plating/Stripping and a electroplating machine that can do Rectifier/Plating?

[EvanH]

Originally Posted by jokersdesign

Dont worry about not being able to download the video the flash video works great. Might want to either make the video a little bigger or go with windows media player for windows user and quick time to cover mac users.

Well I dont want to realy play with toxic carcinogen. Can other metals like cooper or brass be anodizing?

Aslo where would someone get a anodizing machine? Is this machine the same as a electroplating machine used to plate gold and silver jewelry, or is that a different machine all together?

I had one question that is off topic but though you would know the answer. What is the difference between a electroplating machine that can do Plating/Stripping and a electroplating machine that can do Rectifier/Plating?

As far as the materials you can use to anodize like I show in the tutorial, there are really only 3. Titanium, Niobium and Tantalum. Titanium requires a strong acid etch prior to andoizing which is why I don't use it. Titanium is the least expensive of the 3 but it is also somewhat difficult to machine, and form... leading me to Niobium. Niobium is moderately expensive (on a par with sterling silver) but easy to form and cut, and only requires that the surface be clean to anodize. No paint or dye is required. Really fun material to work with. Tantalum is EXPENSIVE, which is why you don't really see it used much for these purposes.

As far as equipment goes - The power supply used to plating or electroforming and the one used for anodizing niobium are two completely different animals. Not even close. Plating / Electroforming are generally low voltage low current applications. Anodizing niobium is a high voltage, higher (not extremely high however) current application. Anodizing niobium requires from about 50 Volts to about 120 volts. Plating and electroforming are usually below 5 volts, and in the milliamp range as far as current goes.

I hope that answers your questions... If not drop me a note back.

Evan

[ajwhite]

Well Evan, you've got me hooked. I'm looking at the anodizers on the reactive metals site and they are 200 bucks. I'm on ebay looking at variacs and I think that is what you have but am not sure. I don't want to spend the 200 bucks if I don't have to. My maintainence messiah husband said I can get a digital voltage meter for around 20 bucks so that would be nice. I just don't know what to look for in terms of the voltage thing. I thought I was on the right track but now I'm not sure.

Thanks Evan, you did an excellent tutorial once again!

Audra

[jokersdesign]

Originally Posted by ajwhite

Well Evan, you've got me hooked. I'm looking at the anodizers on the reactive metals site and they are 200 bucks. I'm on ebay looking at variacs and I think that is what you have but am not sure. I don't want to spend the 200 bucks if I don't have to. My maintainence messiah husband said I can get a digital voltage meter for around 20 bucks so that would be nice. I just don't know what to look for in terms of the voltage thing. I thought I was on the right track but now I'm not sure.

Thanks Evan, you did an excellent tutorial once again!

Audra

Thanks Audra for reminding me of Reactive Metals website.

http://www.reactivemetals.com/Pages/rmsmini.htm

Evan is there other websites that sell andoizing machines then reactivemetals.com for a comparison?

[Cosmo]

www.caswellplating.com

I have done a lot of business with them and they have great service.

[EvanH]

Originally Posted by ajwhite

Well Evan, you've got me hooked. I'm looking at the anodizers on the reactive metals site and they are 200 bucks. I'm on ebay looking at variacs and I think that is what you have but am not sure. I don't want to spend the 200 bucks if I don't have to. My maintainence messiah husband said I can get a digital voltage meter for around 20 bucks so that would be nice. I just don't know what to look for in terms of the voltage thing. I thought I was on the right track but now I'm not sure.

Thanks Evan, you did an excellent tutorial once again!

Audra

Audra -

Hi! I have to admit that playing with niobium is a lot of fun.. it's almost like magic watching the colors come up! (I hope that shows in the video!)

Yes what I have is a variac and the power supply I'm using is home made....Here comes the 'requisite warning though' --> If your not absolutely sure you understand what you need to do to make and use this safely do more research or get some additonal consulting! Not fully understanding the potential here could be FATAL. That being said - I'm not trying to frighten anyone away - If your a lampworker, using or misusing your torch and the flamable gas could be devastating as well, you need to understand the hazzards so you know the proper safety precautions. My background is in electrical engineering and I have over 25 years experience in designing varous electrical systems from power supplies, through embedded computer equipment. Yes you can save significant money building a supply, make sure you know how to do it safely or enlist the assitance of someone that can help.

The reason for the warning is when using a variac, you need to have an external isolation transformer to prevent the possibility of line current flowing through YOU. Basically my setup consists of a 1:1 isolation transformer feeding the variac supply. Inside the homemade power supply there is a diode rectifier and capacitor to smooth out the AC and turn it into DC power. My supply can deliver from 0-170 volts DC at up to 3 AMPS! I have a 3 position current limiting switch on the front of the unit that allows me to insert 3 different resistances so that I can control how fast the colors change. On the back of the unit are 4 terminals. 2 go to my digital meter, 2 to the anodizing setup (cathode to the bath, anode to the material being anodized.)

Even though the mini-anodizer that Reactive Metals sells is $200.00 I personally think it's a great deal. You don't need a seperate isolation transformer, it has a digital meter built in and the current control has a 10 turn resolution adjustment, which should allow very fine control of the items your anodizing.

By the way Reactive Metals is a great company to do business with - very much personal attention and service. I've been buying supplies from them for more than 10 years now.

If you have any other questions drop a post here or send me an email at ' evan@dawnandevan.com '

take care -

Evan

[ajwhite]

Pfffftt..that is way too complicated for me. I'm getting that icky feeling when I have to go to Menards - it is just not my element. Question now is can I bite the 200 dollars because I really want to do this. Hmmmmm.....

Thanks Evan for possibly saving my life from the misuse of electricity. Sounds like the one at Reactive Metals will keep me safe right?

Audra

[jacki]

Evan, Thanks for such a clear and enjoyable tutorial! Dont know that I have ever seen one I have enjoyed more
On top of that, Your Workshop is going to be in my dreams
With "The Hole Punch" playing a starring role....
Now I know the disc cutters are easy to use, and not all that slow, yadda yadda, but the "The Hole Punch" !! is gorgeous!
Where might I browse them? Do they come with (or have available) a multitude of cutter sizes?
Thanks again Evan, What a nice thing to do.
Jacki

[EvanH]

Originally Posted by ajwhite

Pfffftt..that is way too complicated for me. I'm getting that icky feeling when I have to go to Menards - it is just not my element. Question now is can I bite the 200 dollars because I really want to do this. Hmmmmm.....

Thanks Evan for possibly saving my life from the misuse of electricity. Sounds like the one at Reactive Metals will keep me safe right?

Audra

Audra -

The one at Reactive Metals is a nice unit and should be safe to use. Key rules of use:

1) Wear good (not cheap latex) rubber gloves with no holes when anodizing.

2) Don't touch the material or the anodizing bath with your hands when the anodizer is on.

3) Use one hand only and hold the insulated connetor when imersing something into the andozing bath.

It really is no more complicated than the safety precautions you need to use when you use your torch. (Don't pick up what's hot, the gas is flammable, don't store gas in the house, etc...). Once you understand the issues it is truly a rewarding technique.

I teach a short introductory anodizing class at the local high school here every february. (I've been doing this for about 6 years now, they shut down normal classes and invite guest instructors in from all walks of life). It is always fun for me to watch the look on peoples faces the first time they see the colors come up on their pieces in the anodizing bath!

I guarantee that anybody that might enjoy metal work, will get 'hooked' as soon as they experiment with this stuff!

Ev

[EvanH]

Originally Posted by jacki

Evan, Thanks for such a clear and enjoyable tutorial! Dont know that I have ever seen one I have enjoyed more
On top of that, Your Workshop is going to be in my dreams
With "The Hole Punch" playing a starring role....
Now I know the disc cutters are easy to use, and not all that slow, yadda yadda, but the "The Hole Punch" !! is gorgeous!
Where might I browse them? Do they come with (or have available) a multitude of cutter sizes?
Thanks again Evan, What a nice thing to do.
Jacki

Jacki - The puch I'm using is a Roper Whitney model 218. It is a very very heavy monster (it weighs in around 200 lbs I think) ! It also must be mounted to a fixed surface. This punch supplies up to 4 tons of punching pressure. It comes with only 1 punch, as you buy it (If I remember correctly). Additional punches are availble in all sizes and shapes (round, square,etc..) It is very easy to use and only takes a few minutes of practice to learn to change the dies and punches and set the alignment. I have 5 or 6 punches in various sizes. I purchased it because I used to have access to a big hydraulic punch (think the size of your car) where I used to work and I would run into the machine shop at lunch and punch out the pieces I needed in 5 minutes and be out of there. But then the machine shop changed hands and they would not let me in there anymore, so I started to search for my own means. The disks I was cutting at that time were 1 1/8" diamter which goes beyond the size of many disc cutters so I need a different solution. This is what came out. Yes it works great, but for most people a disc cutter should work just fine. For punching smaller holes check out the hand punch at Harbor Frieight --> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44060. It's on sale right now for $10.00 and at that price it's a steal! I use two of those in my shop so I don't have to switch the punches all the time.

Hope that helps -

Evan

[SassyCassie]

Evan...I just got finished with a class with Tink Martin today and saw some of these in person.

Oh

My

Goodness!

Just to let you know...I'm buying SPEAKERS (which I've lived without for 3 years because there just hasn't been anything worth having them for) JUST so I can view your tutorial!

AMAZING!! Thank you for having this!!

Cass

[EvanH]

Originally Posted by SassyCassie

Evan...I just got finished with a class with Tink Martin today and saw some of these in person.

Oh

My

Goodness!

Just to let you know...I'm buying SPEAKERS (which I've lived without for 3 years because there just hasn't been anything worth having them for) JUST so I can view your tutorial!

AMAZING!! Thank you for having this!!

Cass

Cassie -

Hi! How was Tinks class? The vessels class I took with her was a blast. Lot's of fun. Tink is a great teacher. Glad you like the beadcaps. I think you will enjoy the tutorial. I wish I could watch some of the people watching the tutorial.. the first time you see the color change on the metal... welll it's almost like watching magic.

Drop me a note if you have any questions!

Take care -

Evan

[GardensOnGlass]

Absolutely fascinating and fabulous tutorial, Evan. I liked the riveting one as well!

[EvanH]

Originally Posted by GardensOnGlass

Absolutely fascinating and fabulous tutorial, Evan. I liked the riveting one as well!

Thanks Lori! I appreciate the feedback. Working with niobium is quite a treat. More than 10 years after I first started playing with it, it still seems like magic!

Evan

[Antonie]

Hi Evan,
thank you for your fantasic DVD´s,
AL

[EvanH]

Originally Posted by Antonie

Hi Evan,
thank you for your fantasic DVD´s,
AL

My pleasure! Feel free to drop questions on the process here if you have any - I'd be happy to help!

Take care -

Evan

[SassyCassie]

Just wanted to let you know that I finally got the speakers today and it was well worth it Evan.

I can't wait to try this! (who just adds $200 to the already growing budget of the new inside studio space)

Cass

[EvanH]

Originally Posted by SassyCassie

Just wanted to let you know that I finally got the speakers today and it was well worth it Evan.

I can't wait to try this! (who just adds $200 to the already growing budget of the new inside studio space)

Cass

Let me know when your ready to try it! I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have -

Ev

[AvandaleiArtBeads]

Great tutorials!! Evan, thanks for sharing your knowledge!!

[EvanH]

Originally Posted by AvandaleiArtBeads

Great tutorials!! Evan, thanks for sharing your knowledge!!

Thanks much - Glad you enjoyed them! This one is coming to the end of it's time though... the next one is just about ready... (I'll give a little preview.. the next one is called "3 Beads", it's a brief studio tour of my glass area in my studio and then 3 short tutorials, making a button on a button mandrel, doing a hollow bead on hollow bead blowpipe mandrel, and making a triangle bead on a triangle mandrel.) These should be up no later than Sunday the 20th! Hope you all enjoy them!

Evan

[Deucalion]

Thank you for the tut Even.

Just a short introduction, I am a chainmailler and I'm looking to start doing my own anodizing in aluminum and niobium. Looks like niobim will be my first choince to start with because of the less expense in set up costs. And, when I start anodizing niobium, what sales I generate from my jewelry can go towards buying my aluminum station.

So thank you again for the tutorial. I'm sure I'll be bugging you with questions regarding the set up once I get everything together.

[emoon]

Does anyone know if there is a way to get this tutorial still, or is it gone, forever?

[carolinainmymind]

ETA- was going to suggest the wayback machine, but I realized it has embedded Flash video which won't pull up. Sorry!

[Rose Leslie]

Couldn't open it. Darn.

[ironmountainglass]

Does anyone know how to get in contact with him to see if we can still get this?