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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #31  
Old 2012-05-10, 10:37am
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saraconklin saraconklin is offline
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wow, what a concept: burn the haze off what, the whole rod, and then it is ready for future use??? and then put it back in stock?? am i understanding this? or, as you are working, burn off the haze from the entire circumference of the rod as part of the prep work so no worries about where the haze might be lurking.

i have an entire series of poop beads i will spare everyone viewing based on the silver all coming to the surface because of some trouble i was having controlling the propane level in my flame. when the word "silver" appears in any glass name should i assume poop potential and work with a really clean 02 flame?

got some opaques, the Parramore stuff, to put frit on and thanks so much for the advice about the opaques. it should save me some hell.
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  #32  
Old 2012-05-10, 12:55pm
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Sorry, I wasn't clear. Burn the haze off the entire circumference of the rod that you're working with. As you work with it, keep the haze off. You know you have to burn it off if it looks hazy... you get the hang of it pretty quickly, really you do. To strike correctly you need to have the haze off.

Generally things work like this: do initial shaping/working in a slightly oxygenated flame. Keep burning off the haze. When you're done, if you need reduction effects, THEN turn down your oxygen and go for it.
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  #33  
Old 2012-05-10, 1:08pm
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Over the Moon Over the Moon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuntD View Post
...If you don't burn off the haze you generally end up with -- a sad off-color opaque version of what you thought you were going for....

Since there's always an exception -- ...if you burn off the haze and keep it burned off and strike it correctly and the moon is right, you get deep reds and purples and magentas. If you don't burn off the haze you get a sickly looking salmon... like a salmon that took its own life because it could no longer stand the pain. ...
I love this post. Brilliant, totally true, and funny!
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  #34  
Old 2012-05-10, 6:11pm
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Originally Posted by Over the Moon View Post
I love this post. Brilliant, totally true, and funny!
Thanks, Val!

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  #35  
Old 2012-05-11, 9:37am
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Aunt D, thanks for that. i tried to burn a bunch of the haze of the end of a rod, thinking i was preping and the sucker almost hit the work bench. can only de-haze about 1/4 to 1/2" at a time but love not having to worry about hidden haze!

do you, as a matter of course, try every rod to see if it has the haze? i don't know the colors well enough yet, and get new ones from time to time. does it pay to check for haze with all new rods. is there a name that i should look for that tells me haze potential? is there a santa claus?

the moon is right and all is fine with the world, for now.
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  #36  
Old 2012-05-11, 12:47pm
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when burning off the haze, i sometimes get things too soupy and some haze gets trapped when the glass twists or folds on itself. is there any way to recover from that kind of "trapped haze" mistake?
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  #37  
Old 2012-05-11, 6:41pm
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Default poop a licious NOT



after a day of "poop-a-licious" beads............hate that, but hey, i finally got these babies right.
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Carlisle minor, hot head and Lynx
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LOVE silver glass
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  #38  
Old 2012-05-12, 10:01am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saraconklin View Post
Aunt D, thanks for that. i tried to burn a bunch of the haze of the end of a rod, thinking i was preping and the sucker almost hit the work bench. can only de-haze about 1/4 to 1/2" at a time but love not having to worry about hidden haze!

do you, as a matter of course, try every rod to see if it has the haze? i don't know the colors well enough yet, and get new ones from time to time. does it pay to check for haze with all new rods. is there a name that i should look for that tells me haze potential? is there a santa claus?

the moon is right and all is fine with the world, for now.
You will get haze with any rod that has silver in it. That's one of the reasons it's helpful to read about glass chemistry -- you can figure out the best way to start experimenting. If it has silver, you'll need to keep burning off any haze you see. If it has cadmium, heat g-e-n-t-l-y way out at the end of the flame or you'll get a bubbly burned mess. If it has copper, working too long might get you red streaks where you don't want them. If it's green or sparkly, test carefully before encasing and then don't completely trust them encased anyway. (Green and sparkly are not technically elements you can find on the periodic chart, but I have a very simple mind... )

If you can only burn off 1/2" of haze at a time you need more oxygen or a bigger flame or a different torch. Burning off haze should be easier than that, especially after the first time.

Also, those are gorgeous beads! Great job!

Quote:
Originally Posted by PracticalMagicGlass View Post
when burning off the haze, i sometimes get things too soupy and some haze gets trapped when the glass twists or folds on itself. is there any way to recover from that kind of "trapped haze" mistake?
To quote someone here, though I forget who, heat the snot out of it. Heat it until it's clear; that will erase all of the haze, and you can start over. It's easier to burn off the second and additional times. Also, there are times when trapped haze is part of what you're going for. Experiment with it; it might not be the bad thing you think!
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  #39  
Old 2012-05-14, 2:48pm
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bigger flame, bigger torch...............would love it but not in the cards for now, thank you!
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  #40  
Old 2012-05-15, 9:48pm
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Originally Posted by saraconklin View Post
bigger flame, bigger torch...............would love it but not in the cards for now, thank you!
You should be good to go on the Lynx with a big enough concentrator or on tanked 02.

I'm on a Bobcat with an M15 (I'll use that for beads) and tank ... well for beads and pendants. Some of the glasses just like the tank better and I'm not the mosts patient person in the world
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  #41  
Old 2012-06-07, 8:10am
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chrisann chrisann is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PracticalMagicGlass View Post
when burning off the haze, i sometimes get things too soupy and some haze gets trapped when the glass twists or folds on itself. is there any way to recover from that kind of "trapped haze" mistake?
That would be NO once you have "trapped" the haze there is no way of getting it out.
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  #42  
Old 2012-06-07, 11:26am
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Aunt D, your posts and tips in this thread have been so helpful! I've been working boro for about 4 years and learned plenty just reading your posts. Thank you.

Thought I'd throw my two cents in here. My favorite bases for striking frit blends are usually one of the Amber Purples or Pomegrante. If it's an opaque blend, I like Silver Aqua or Peacock Chameleon. I find I can get pretty consistent results with these colors by holding my tongue a certain way on the fifth Tuesday of every third month that ends in "Y". Since I make bead sets, I always make the full set at one sitting since I know the chances are high that my propane/oxy mix will change just enough to affect the outcome of the beads at a second sitting.

I find Northstar's color guide to be an incredibly valuable tool and refer to it constantly. I use it when I'm ordering glass and frit, I refer to it when I'm mixing frit and I refer to it just when I'm deciding on what colors to play with during a torch session. I wish Glass Alchemy would put out something similar; I end up referring to their website and the individual color listings a lot.

This thread has also been both fun and enlightening: http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=105586
There are a ton of possible color combos here and just by playing with the proportions of the colors, you can come up with something different.

My basic boro rules (I impose them only on myself) are these:
1) oxy-rich flame
2) burn off the haze
3) if it's a striking color, heat the snot out of it. Once you think you've heated the snot out of it, continue to heat. Heat some more. Then let it cool until the glow is gone. Wave it around in the back of the flame to strike the color. Wash, rinse and repeat.
3) avoid crayon colors (or if I can't resist, introduce them slowly into the working parts of the flame so they don't boil)
4) don't be afraid to play but have no preconceived notions about what I'm hoping the results will be
5) never expect my results to be the same as any other flameworker
6) A little bit of the Exotics (green, blue, or red Exotic) goes a long way!
7) Never be too shy to ask questions. There is a lot of knowledge in this community and most people are willing to share what they know. Pay it forward.
HAVE FUN!
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