DH Iaso , any tips? - Page 3

jillybead · #61 2015-01-30, 8:34am

I tried this glass yesterday. The one I thought would be copper came out rainbowy..it was reduced about 5 times.
Then. I had one I took around 15 reduction segments, it looked perfect,, I made one more pass and it was over reduced and muddy, stuck it in the kiln. This morning the areas I did not over reduce were the gorgeous rich copper I am looking for. Crappy phone photos/ for color reference. The bead pictured is the one over reduced w partial great copper on the bottom.

MrsD · #62 2015-01-30, 5:06pm

Going into the kiln it looked promising but mine looks like pooh.

KJohn · #63 2015-01-30, 6:24pm

thanks for all the info, Robyn! and everyone who has posted. Very interesting stuff.

Elizabeth Beads · #64 2015-01-30, 10:23pm

Better photos. Sorry they are so huge. I compressed them but it didn't help.

Ravenesque · #65 2015-01-31, 1:13am

Looks kinda cool encased.
I have 1 1/4 rods left, this is the toughest glass ever

I've adjusted so much crap lol. I was determined to 'beat' it, but I think I'll run out first. The closest I get is that goldish color.

Mrs D that bead is so cool! Were you able to repeat it? It looks almost more matte like DSP, is it? Reminds me of that funky copper leaf.

Jillybead, yes, the bottom is what I want!
this

Quote:

Originally Posted by Double Helix Glassworks

(Iaso pendant)

Elizabeth Beads · #66 2015-01-31, 8:21am

One trick or secret - reduction works best on an impressed surface - grooved, stamped, textured, etc. - such as the pendant example by Double Helix.

Ravenesque · #67 2015-01-31, 7:34pm

Tried that. I've made pressed, round, bicones, ribbed, flat, large,small....1 oxy, 2 oxy, different flame sizes, different seconds in flame, positions in flame...
The beads they show on the site are just 'normal' beads.

I can work every other DH glass, I have to come to terms that I have to break up with Iaso

I think with the last rod I'll blow some shards and see what that does, sometimes that kicks in naughty glass.

28676bhe · #68 2015-01-31, 9:08pm

I' still very much of a newb, but I can get much better results from shards....even the extremely thin ones seem easier to strike than the thicker ones. Can't wait to see yours!

MrsD · #69 2015-02-05, 12:21am

Mine looked OK going into the kiln but came out a muddy mess. It was the first bead I did that day, so it sat in the kiln for about 6 hours, I don't know if that makes a difference or not, I think the first one I did was in the kiln for a lot less time. I wish I could show you the video I took, watching it you can see the colours on it right up until the end. Ravenesque, I am like you & have never had any trouble getting great results from reduction glasses before, but this one is definitely different! I've never had to put a bead up close to the flame before either, except to erase the reduction

.

I have heaps of rods (I bought a pound I think) but I am going to try shards next like Barbara suggested.

28676bhe · #70 2015-02-05, 10:11am

Just a thought......you may be garaging or annealing a bit high for this glass. Try a lower temp and a longer annealing hold. Instead of 940, you might try 925 and hold 1/2 hour longer than you normally would.

MrsD · #71 2015-02-05, 9:30pm

Ravenesque have you tried the shards yet. I am not going to jinx myself like I did last time, but I've just put a shard bead in the kiln that looked good!

MrsD · #72 2015-02-06, 6:54pm

Arghh I don't know now why I'm having problems, I made beads yesterday & they looked great going into the kiln, but I've pulled them out this morning & all but one is over reduced & muddy. But I also made 2 other beads after the first set & they look great! I am definitely going to try turning my kiln down like Barbara suggested!

MrsD · #73 2015-02-06, 11:49pm

On the other hand the Iris beads I made are very very cool! Metallic silver!

Ravenesque · #74 2015-02-07, 1:47am

No I haven't tried shards, I haven't torched in a bit. My kiln is turned down....but, I'm going to put it back up some because I have had too many cracked beads which hasn't happened before and I've never had problems with silver glass before. But yep, Iris is awesome, I get so many cool colors, love it.

jamie lynne · #75 2015-02-07, 7:50am

Try blanket cooling a bead or two? Maybe the kiln isn't ruining them, maybe the effect just doesn't look as nice once the bead is cooled?

I don't have this glass yet, or I'd try it myself.

MrsD · #76 2015-02-07, 8:55am

Jamie Lynne I was thinking the same thing, I wondered what would happen if I just let it cool by itself if the bronze colour would disappear or not. I will try that next time I torch too.

Eileen · #77 2015-02-07, 11:42am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ravenesque

No I haven't tried shards, I haven't torched in a bit. My kiln is turned down....but, I'm going to put it back up some because I have had too many cracked beads which hasn't happened before and I've never had problems with silver glass before. But yep, Iris is awesome, I get so many cool colors, love it.

I'm curious, I generally anneal at 925 for an hour, and haven't had any cracking issues except a couple of times where I'm sure the glass was the culprit (encased striking red & yellow once for example).

Ravenesque · #78 2015-02-08, 12:44am

I make very large beads though, my test beads are on my small side lol. I wouldn't think it would make a difference but ever since I put it down for this I've had more than 5 crack. All different glasses, some encased, some not. To me it's not worth that if I've never had a problem before with striking or reducing going away....or cracking.

jamie lynne that's a good point but I rarely get bronze before they go into the kiln. They look like over reduced Iris. If anything else it's just gold. Hope it helps others!

Eileen · #79 2015-02-08, 5:57am

Maybe try somewhere in the middle?

Hayley · #80 2015-02-08, 9:38am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ravenesque

I make very large beads though, my test beads are on my small side lol. I wouldn't think it would make a difference but ever since I put it down for this I've had more than 5 crack. All different glasses, some encased, some not. To me it's not worth that if I've never had a problem before with striking or reducing going away....or cracking!

It's likely that your kiln is running cool to start for annealing at a lower temp (e.g., 925) and compensating with a longer soak time does not cause beads to crack...unless you are using Lauscha. Most of my beads are over 1" in diameter and I never have cracks annealing at 925 in the last eight years.

Eileen · #81 2015-02-08, 9:55am

I was also wondering if maybe our displayed temps don't actually reflect the true temperature when we are talking about these things.
I garage & anneal at the same temp.

JavaGirlBT · #82 2015-02-08, 11:04am

I purchased a kiln thermometer (pyrometer - I had to google it to find the word) from Malcolm a couple of years ago and it showed that my kiln was running approximately 100 degrees hotter than what was displayed. I had always felt it was too hot because of slumping and over-striking that was going on. My kiln reads 850 and it's actually at 925 for annealing.

Hayley · #83 2015-02-08, 11:32am

Quote:

Originally Posted by JavaGirlBT

I purchased a kiln thermometer (pyrometer - I had to google it to find the word) from Malcolm a couple of years ago and it showed that my kiln was running approximately 100 degrees hotter than what was displayed. I had always felt it was too hot because of slumping and over-striking that was going on. My kiln reads 850 and it's actually at 925 for annealing.

Yes, and if Ravenesque's kiln were running cooler - say 100 degrees - then annealing at 925 would in fact be 825 which is lower than the 840 strain point of Effetre, thus the cracking.

That's why I always advice my students to lower the annealing temp 10 degrees at a time and no lower than 920 if they have trouble retaining the silver glass effects in the kiln. And if it's still not working, then get a pyrometer to make sure the kiln temp is in fact accurate especially if they have cracking issues.

28676bhe · #84 2015-02-08, 1:50pm

HF (the girl's store!) has an infrared digital thermometer that goes on sale often below $30.00. Use your coupon for another 20% off and it's a steal. You just turn it on, decide on C or F, point and shoot. Pretty accurate. I've had professionals in the house using one to check my oven temperature.

Why not? We all need another toy!

MrsD · #85 2015-02-08, 8:56pm

My kiln is set at 520 degrees Celcius, which I think it about 968 degrees F. Worth turning it down?

MrsD · #86 2015-02-08, 9:08pm

OK, I am so slack I still haven't managed to take a pic of the beads i made that turned out well, so here they are. Not really sure what I did differently between these & the earlier ones with the shards that turned to mud but if I work it out I will let you know!

ETA - one thing I do know is that I didn't do anything like Jed's video, from memory I just turned up my propane & waved it around in the flame about half way up.

MrsD · #87 2015-02-08, 11:45pm

Here is my Eureka moment! Iaso shards on black & solid Iaso donut - *NOT* put in the kiln, just left to cool on my desk. I think I've answered my own question from back up there ^^^^^^.

jamie lynne · #88 2015-02-09, 6:59am

Ooo. The kiln is killing them. My kiln is killing my un-encased Iris beads, maybe I'll try turning it down too.

28676bhe · #89 2015-02-09, 10:48am

Mrs. D - Now you see why I love shards so much! Just wish I could make them........

KJohn · #90 2015-02-09, 2:00pm

oooooooooooo, Robyn that spacer is Iaso? that looks like a rose bronze, now I want this glass darn it. Thanks for working out the mysteries