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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2014-11-14, 9:31am
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 25, 2014
Location: Casper, Wyoming
Posts: 12
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newbie flame temp, my beads are spliting on cleaning
I have just started trying to do decorative work on my beads after forming a base bead. I think I am maintaining the bead hot enough but obviously I am doing something wrong. I am applying dots, reheating, stringer work etc. I get some good results, but when I am cleaning the bead release, the bead crumbles or splits in two. Can someone explain where in the flame I should be holding my base bead, what color should I let it cool to before applying anything else?
I feel like I am taking a giant step backward.
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2014-11-14, 9:35am
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Loving learning
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Join Date: Oct 11, 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 11,654
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You can't keep it totally out of the flame for long, or at least I can't.
I do a little decoration, then twirl the bead (not close to the torch head) in the flame, do a little more, twirl the bead, etc. Sometimes I kind of count to myself so I don't forget.
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2014-11-14, 10:01am
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Dazed and Confused
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Join Date: Jan 10, 2007
Location: Los Angeles, via London
Posts: 289
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Have you noticed whether its cracking through the added decoration or is it just the base bead?
My guess is that you're allowing the bead to cool down too fast after you've finally finished working it.
Are you using an annealer, or a fibre blanket/vermiculite after you've finished the bead? If no, then you might find you need to keep the bead warm for longer than you are currently
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2014-11-14, 1:20pm
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 25, 2014
Location: Casper, Wyoming
Posts: 12
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I am using an annealing kiln. I know it is a high wire balancing act to keep everything at the right temp. Thanks for the advice!
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2014-11-14, 3:01pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 22, 2006
Location: Grand Junction, CO
Posts: 1,250
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First of all DON'T get discouraged you are not moving backwards!
I am just starting up again after 4.5 years away (not my choice).
The heat control balance act is essential in the learning curve.
Here is what I am learning. My annealing kiln is set to 960.
It is ALL about the Core heat. When you are working a bead get the base shape then heat the core by holding it in the end of the gale and slowly gently rotating for about 1 full min.
Yes - I have a clock with a second hand in front of me.
I want the inside warmed up real well with the outside still firm.
As I add each decoration I spot heat for the decoration and then go out to the end of the flame to keep the core warm.
when I am done I give it a brief (15 second) look and go out to the end of the flame and warm the whole thing for at least a min again. When I put it in the kiln it should still have a warm dull glow to it while still having the outside firm.
I hope this makes sense!
The end of the flame and core heat are your friends!
Jen
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2014-11-14, 5:42pm
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Slogan Challenged...
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2009
Location: Maricopa, Arizona
Posts: 6,287
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Great advice here from everyone!
I'll add that when you make your base shape, evenly heat it before starting to add designs. This will help you keep that core heat, and designs are not added all at once (shame!!).
Get some good light, and know how to check for a glow. You definitely want it evenly heated again before you put it away.
Splitting in two is a thermal crack. Crumbling is another story. You might have something else going on. Make sure that the hot beads don't touch each other. They need to cool a little first before you stack them. I got some weird cracking that way until I got it worked out.
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2014-11-14, 8:35pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 08, 2011
Location: NC
Posts: 1,687
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Remember that your mandrel is a heat sink, and it will drain the bead faster near the core. Try keeping the bead itself hotter and the decorations cooler rather than the other way around.
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Barbara
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2014-11-16, 11:00am
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 25, 2014
Location: Casper, Wyoming
Posts: 12
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Thank you so much to everyone. With those tips I'll go back to practice. Jenfire, what is the "gale"?
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2014-11-16, 12:27pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 23, 2006
Posts: 1,229
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2014-11-18, 3:13pm
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 25, 2014
Location: Casper, Wyoming
Posts: 12
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Thanks Yellowbird. I was amazed at the ease with which she moved in and out of the flame. I did wonder also, how to know when to increase the oxygen and when to decrease. It seems there is a whole body of knowledge about glass and flame. I am having a hard time finding much written for us newbies about that.
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2014-11-20, 10:09pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 22, 2006
Location: Grand Junction, CO
Posts: 1,250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gloria3260
Thank you so much to everyone. With those tips I'll go back to practice. Jenfire, what is the "gale"?
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OMG - LOL the gale is a typo. It is supposed to be the flame!
Jen
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2014-11-21, 12:15pm
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randomly active member
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Join Date: Jan 19, 2006
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 791
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Typically you are adding decorations outside the flame and your bead will cool off a lot faster than you think it does. And when you are fairly new, it takes a lot longer to add decorations than you even realize.
I personally think "heat control" is the hardest thing to learn as a newbie. It just takes a lot of practice and eventually you will be able to read the heat in the bead without even thinking about it.
Do you feel any "tink" in the bead while working it? Sometimes the cracks can happen while adding decorations if the core is cool and the stringer is hot. You want to make sure that after you are done manipulating the bead, you give it a good thorough soaking in the flame to bring it all the way back up to a nice uniform heat (without distorting anything) before putting it right in the kiln.
Do not be tempted to look at it before putting it in the kiln. Often it is the period of admiration that can trigger a thermal shock Bring it up to a nice soft glow and stick it right in the kiln.
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2014-11-21, 12:20pm
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addicted to dichro
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Join Date: Jan 05, 2006
Location: Maine
Posts: 2,402
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Are you sure you aren't marvering or shaping your beads too much so that they are too thin? Your should have something like at least 1.5 times the bead holes diameter on either side in glass thickness.
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2014-11-22, 8:34am
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 25, 2014
Location: Casper, Wyoming
Posts: 12
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More great advice!!! Yes, I think I am doing the period of admiration. I am practicing everyone's suggestions and I am getting some good results. You are all awsome!!!
Thank you so much!!!!
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