Raku colors

fatdogdesigns · #1 2005-10-27, 6:26am

Help! I would like info from anyone who plays with raku colors. The only one I've used is Iris Orange, and I can occasionally get the deep purples and blues, but not always! I am wondering what colors produce what results; for instance, I'd like to try the iris gold, but is brilliant gold a better idea? Better result? And how about the purples/blues/reds? I have also used the iris blue for the silvery effect, very nice. Where is the best place to buy? Any information would be welcome, with color reactions and your tips on reducing for them.
Thanks,

Martha
FatDogBeads

DreamMuse · #2 2005-10-27, 10:43am

Hi *S* I just posted a thread on Raku in the Tips section

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6598

Iris Orange is sometimes called Raku, but Iris Gold is not. (At least, I've only heard a few colors actually called "raku".) Iris Gold is another type of reduction frit, and will sometimes give you some colors when layered with other glass. Check out this thread to read the details

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4391

G.L.McBead · #3 2005-10-29, 11:24am

Olympic color rod has all those colors.
G.

e. mort · #4 2006-01-24, 12:05pm

Hi Disa,

I just read your thread about the Raku. Once you get it nice and purple will it stay that color if you encase, or will it go away if it gets hot again under the encasement. I guess I am asking if encasing the reaction will protect it. I would like to try and do a marble with the stuff, and I would kind of like for it to be a nice smooth marble.

Thanks,

Eric

DreamMuse · #5 2006-02-08, 1:08pm

Sorry, I didn't see your question!

I've never tried to encase the raku after getting the strong colors; though now that you mention it, I probably will give it a try someday when I have a free moment. (Which won't be for a little while, unfortunately)

There are a few other people who might be able to answer your questions better than I. I remember Shawn also had some great tips, and Mr Smiley might have tried it also. And I'm sure there are others as well. Hopefuly someone knows and will post....

dragonfly designs 56 · #6 2006-02-08, 3:50pm

raku is so extremly frustrating!!! i have two different kinds, iris orange, and a dark raku , both I got from gg glass. the dark raku is awesome really superheated and cold brass marvered in my press, the problem is with a press, i usually have to reintroduce it to the flame to clean up my edges (my shaping sucks) when i do that, all my color turns really light and my bead looks like crap. i just cant win. One other question, does the kiln help with raku colors?

Tanner Studios · #7 2006-02-08, 4:42pm

Encasing will change the color. In fact just about everything will change raku. But it's not always a bad thing. sometimes they won't change at all. Most of the time though they will become more pastle. But still very cool. The real problem is cracking. remember raku is 96 coe if your using morreti it's 104 coe. I mix them all the time with out problem. But when it comes to encasing the risk will increase. So anneal in the kiln for at least an hour ( much longer for large pieces ) before ramping down.

Scott

Sabbsee · #8 2006-02-08, 9:45pm

Wow those beads are beautiful. I keep trying to use raku too, but on a hothead it just doesn't work quite as well (can't wait to get my big girls torch

). I have to say, I have never even thought of encasing raku - might try that and see what happens. Got to find time, got too find time.

Blueflameart · #9 2006-02-09, 5:27pm

I've had my best colors come out when I heat it real real real hot and then touch the bead to a graphite paddle (super cool). I've seen no real change if I were to heat it over and repeat. I read this either here or on the Art Glass Answers forum. Ever since I tried it I get some really great eye candy! GL

fatdogdesigns · #10 2006-02-09, 9:42pm

Are you shaping it on the paddle somehow? Using an Osibin former or something? Otherwise all I could get are square edges. I love Scott's beads, they look like they were done on EDP as a base? Fab, just fab.
Martha

Tanner Studios · #11 2006-02-09, 10:43pm

Hey fat dog, "love that name" the base was Ivory. but I did through in a little EDP in the caine. Great eye. Here's a tip. I have a bead squeeze press, and I hated it. I hate squeezed beads. But I have found that the top half is the best cold paddle for working with Raku. Keep it in ice, have a towel on your leg, use it to cool your bead. Thats all I will give away today.
Much Love
Scott

Kevan · #12 2006-02-10, 12:02am

The base color is very important. The colors will not pop on turquoise for some reason.

Starrr · #13 2006-02-10, 4:14am

This is what I have found with Raku/Iris Orange, you don't need any special formula or cooling the tools in between usage. You need HOT, OXY, you can not burn off the brown colors without working this glass hot with alot of oxygen. I can tell the different colors from just how long I have used my propane tank, the humidity, and how clean your torch ports are. Yep, it all makes a difference.

This glass is made to be used hot, I can't stress hot enough. When you get the brown, keep cooking it and the blues will come, parrot greens and purples, even pinks.

I only encase Raku with a thin layer of color, or it will crack. I like it best without a casing, you can try so many base colors, that encasing isn't really that important.
Edie

hummingbird3172 · #14 2006-02-15, 5:13pm

I just got my "big girl torch" and I have been playing with raku like crazy. I found that silver plum and avocado green get color almost effortlessly...even some nice rich golds and russet tones on a HH. For using on ivory I've found that less is more since it spreads all over the bead...I like just a tiny bit. I am still experimenting with this stuff, so I still have a lot to try!