Reduction frit from Arrow Springs

[categ50]

I have a bunch of reduction frit from Arrow Springs that I purchased a long time ago. I haven't used it in a while; probably not since all the silver glass has been available. I have silver amethyst, aqua blue silver, opal lilac, opal brown, silver clear, brilliant gold, iris violet, amber brown irid, gold brown, iris green and blue, a bunch of different powders, and if I REALLY clean up some,probably some others. I'm not a consistant note taker, and when I do jot something down, it's usually on a post-it. Anyone have any tips on base colors and special effects? This recession is kicking my butt and I can't buy anything for a while. So, I'm trying to dig into my bag of tricks for some oldies but goodies.
Cate

[yellowbird]

I ended up with some of these frits and it seems strange to me
that they are called reduction ( raku color)
raku is not reduced and some (you have) I got mud with little persuasion when I reduced them.
I did like the brilliant gold on lt. ivory encased
I haven't really given them enough time to know much.

[jaci]

I LOVE reduction frits! They are just awesome! Check out my blog and some of the wine stoppers in my gallery. They are mostly made with some kind of reduction frit, and some transparent colors and what not. They are easily reduced, and are really neat when encased or partially encased. I also like to over reduce them Just take some of the oxy out of your flame and wave through! Voila! Just remember they are 96 coe

[Listenup]

Originally Posted by yellowbird

I ended up with some of these frits and it seems strange to me
that they are called reduction ( raku color)
raku is not reduced and some (you have) I got mud with little persuasion when I reduced them.

If it's the colorful effect you want with Raku, that's from its Striking properties, not it's reduction properties. You get that by heating up the glass then cooling it, then heating it, and so forth till you get the color you want.

Reduction properties are when you put it in a reducing flame (fuel rich and Oxygen shy) which can bring the metal to the surface. Raku can and does reduce.

Not all colors are striking, nor are all colors reducing. Those are just 2 of the fun things frits can do. Many will also react with ivory, silver or spread with extended heating.

If your frits are from Reichenbach (not sure on the brand Arrow Springs gets), you can check out some of these properties on the charts on my site:
http://www.listen-up.org/kitty/beads/frit.htm

If they're Kugler, I've not yet done them. Same with Gaffer. But, many of the Reichenbach ones react like the ones of the same name from Kugler.

But no matter where they're from, play with them and have fun exploring the properties of your frits.

[DeAnn]

Glad you asked because I've recently discovered my own unopened sample stash of Arrow Springs reduction frits from years ago and had wondered how to use them. Your question reminded me to do some research! Arrow Springs has some suggestions on their site: http://www.arrowsprings.com/html/making_glass_frit.htm l
I'm also looking forward to looking at Jaci's blog, thanks Jaci : )
DeAnn

[DeAnn]

Let's try the link again....
http://www.arrowsprings.com/html/usi...ion_glass.html

[DesertDreamer]

When I first started, these were the only reduction glass colors available. The silver colors stand out best by applying to the surface, then reducing quickly. You can play with the quality of the reduction flame, but most of them come up as a silvery metallic. However, if you reduce them and encase, you can get some cool color mixes. The iris colors are more subtle and best left un-encased on reactive base colors (the usual suspects like opal yellow and EDP).

Remember that these are primarily 96 COE so use them sparingly on 104 or make them into stringer with a 104 core.

[yellowbird]

Listenup
I have worked raku and understand the process thanks.
what I don't understand is why arrow springs is calling raku a reduction frit.
It is not, you do not reduce the amount of ox in the flame to achieve color.
just saying their wording is weird.
it's confuduling in more ways than one as you can see.

I read the tips at arrow springs site
and agree with Karen on the reducing quickly and the usual suspects.
thanks Karen

Categ50
If you find any tobacco in your cleaning
Kalera's "ask me anything" Thread in tips and techniques
has some great tips on using it.

[categ50]

Thanks everyone. I think I do have some tobacco somewhere. I'm going to look on the AS site, and rad Kalera's thread again.
Cate

[jaci]

Raku is a reduction frit, as long as I have been lampworking I have always seen it listed under the reduction frit categories in many stores. I am not sure if the striking was a happy mistake, or something planned.. (but good for us!!!!) It is a reducing as well as a striking color. It will absolutely reduce to a nice shine just like the other reduction colors. It is "iris orange". Usually "iris" or "opal" in Rechienbach/Kulger/Gaffer whatever meant reduction possibilities.

There is a thread here somewhere (maybe in the Raku thread or uh, in a gallery show n tell, a long time ago, or somewhere...) that went on about how one artist (or a few) swears by reducing the Raku beads then etching them to get the brilliance of the colors out of the inner raku. I have no idea who it was, but there was a lengthy discussion about the look of etched raku, and etching striking vs reduced raku. It captures a different color gradient

[yellowbird]

If you want to defend ones right to reduce raku go for it = til the cows come home

[jaci]

mmmooooooooo!!!

[yellowbird]

good job

[ewdb]

yup, you can reduce raku - both the iris orange and the dark raku (called iris brown i think). it gets a lovely golden shimmer as long as you don't do it too much. i usually strike the colour first, let the bead cool a bit then run it through a reduction flame a few times. it tones down some of the brightness from the multicoloured strike. Goddesses i make in this technique are my best sellers.

that said, i find the reduction works better with a solid raku bead vs. frit.