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  #31  
Old 2007-06-13, 6:07pm
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Wow, thank you for the great step by step. It's that part at the end where the glob of clear is supposed to go on perfectly around the bead that always gets me. I am so encasing challenged. Those are really beautiful and inspiring, though! Maybe I should give it another go.

I need to say this one more time for effect.

Wow!!
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  #32  
Old 2007-06-13, 6:16pm
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Hi Amy,
I didn't even bother trying to put clear on as I had so much other glass on it. I sat down again last night and was reading in Corrina's book on stripes and dots. I was not making enough initial dots, like you said. I realized that I need to practice on stripes before I can move on. But I like to jump ahead! I have to constantly remind myself to master the basics before trying anything else. I still haven't mastered the basics! Pushing the petals was something I really couldn't figure out how to do. Thanks so much for the in depth tutorial! I can't wait to try it. Right now I'm kind of down and out with poor ventilation issues, but once I'm back on the torch I'll be trying it out.
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  #33  
Old 2007-06-13, 7:24pm
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Hey Squid, I noticed... thank you for the acknowledgment!
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  #34  
Old 2007-06-15, 10:17am
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Quote:
Amy how long have you been lampworking?
I've been lampworking for nine years now - it's hard to believe. But, it's really part-time, since I have a full-time "day job".

I love it!

Thanks a bunch for the nice post!!!!

Amy
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  #35  
Old 2007-06-16, 9:14pm
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Amy your beads just blow me away!!!! And your picture taking is awesome too. I think I need a new digital camera. Well you can guess what I will be trying this next week. Oh bead gods be with me.
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  #36  
Old 2007-06-17, 2:59pm
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Speaking of digital cameras...Amy, what are you using? Those are incredible shots of really incredibly well done beads!

Sharon
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  #37  
Old 2007-06-17, 4:50pm
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These are incredible! I hope mine turn out half way decent!

Beautiful work Amy!
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  #38  
Old 2007-06-18, 7:34am
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Chris,

I use a Nikon D-50. I have to admit that picture turned out pretty nice. I can't always get them to look like that. I'm still trying to learn all the bells and whistles on that thing.
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  #39  
Old 2007-06-18, 4:44pm
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Silly question but when you say "Make a disk bead" DO you mean a disk bead??!! Not round or donut??? And where if on a disk ( flat and thin right(?)
do you start placing the dots. I assumed you started with a round bead so now I'm all confused!
Sorry!
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  #40  
Old 2007-06-18, 4:57pm
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When I say a "disk" bead, I mean like the bead below that has an arrow pointing to it. And, place the dots around the disk exactly like they are in the pic. Slowly melt them in, relatively trying to keep the disk shape (it'll make it easier to get the stripes if you keep the shape rather "disk-ish".

Have fun,
Amy
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  #41  
Old 2007-06-18, 5:06pm
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Thank~you Amy!
I was coming around (oh so slowly) to that conclusion!
But that clears it up!
What a beautiful piece you used to point out the disk!
What kind of masher do you use to make the disk ?~ I've been practicing them lately with some Bar-B Q tongs that I forced into shape ~ not great !
Or do you just "build" the disk as you go?
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Last edited by cadia; 2007-06-18 at 5:07pm. Reason: add question
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  #42  
Old 2007-06-18, 5:44pm
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You know what... I'm an anti-toolite.

I use two tools for all of my beads: a long tweezers and a graphite paddle.

Oh, actually I do use a lentil and pillow press too - can't forget those!

Amy
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  #43  
Old 2007-06-18, 6:58pm
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Now I'm confused! I have made the beads where you use dots and encase the bead and let the heat pull it straight.


Ack! I have not tried them you but I'm gonna read thru your instructions again!
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  #44  
Old 2007-06-18, 7:15pm
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Barb,

I think you're describing what I do. I make the disk, put dots around the disk (like the pic above), melt in the dots, add a layer of clear to push the dots into stripes.

For the petals, after you lay down the layer of clear, add another dot, just slightly smaller and a bit to the right, melt it in, add clear on top of the melted-in spot, add another dot, and keep going till you've had your fill.

Hope this makes sense!
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  #45  
Old 2007-06-18, 9:20pm
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For the petals, after you lay down the layer of clear,

When you said this...........
Do you mean all the way around the bead? or just clear on top of each melted in dot?
Really, Am I making this process harder than it is!! LOL
cyndi
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  #46  
Old 2007-06-18, 10:12pm
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Amy, you make gorgeous beads. You have been incredibly kind in answering all the questions about how you make some of them. I just wanted to to say thank you for all the time you have taken to make sure everyone understands.
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  #47  
Old 2007-06-18, 10:32pm
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Thank you Vena - I appreciate that. I'm not the best "internet teacher".

Cyndi, when I said "after you lay down the layer of clear", I meant either clear or transperant color just on top of the petal - not all the way around.

The only time you want to wrap clear all the way around the bead is at the very end.

I think I'm just confusing you all more. Sorry!

Amy
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  #48  
Old 2007-06-19, 5:33am
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Amy,
I'd like to thank you too for all the sharing of this technique!
My favorite tool is a pair of flat stainless steel chopsticks from Heritage glass ($3.95) I bet you'd like them , they are what I reach for most!
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  #49  
Old 2007-06-19, 9:20am
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Little trick I'm figuring out trying to master this (general) technique: When putting on your clear to make it all stretch out (because that's the point of the clear encasing at the end) try building *up* and *out*.

Like: put one wrap of clear around the bead at the very center. Then another on top of that one. Then go out from that high wrap, trying not to have the clear land on the bead while laying it down. You're putting on the clear in wraps, going toward your bead holes on each side. At this point, for my beads, I'm having to go at least two wraps past the end of the bead to have it stretch everything out the way I want it to. Then melt it down.

I'll try to post some pics later today of some beads that the release let go on due to me abusing it while doing this.
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  #50  
Old 2007-06-19, 12:47pm
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Turtle necks!
helps to smoosh them down toward the hole too i think.
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  #51  
Old 2007-06-19, 1:29pm
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Amy, I've been lurking and trying this out in the background, and I am incredibly grateful for your generosity and patience.

Several of your latest explanations are clearing up some things for me (like make a disc bead instead of a doughnut bead ) I am getting there, but I think my learning curve just shortened! When I get some that are decent, AND I get a digital, I'll post some pics!
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  #52  
Old 2007-06-20, 6:09am
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hi, im just beggining and i just wantd to know what do you all use to hold the bead like in this tutorial: http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=285

that white stuff
what is that? it keeps the bead to glue to the pole?
do you put something to help release the bead?
or if i use any kind of wire to hold the bead and then it comes off when it cools down

thanks
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  #53  
Old 2007-06-20, 6:21am
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It's called "bead release" . You have to dip your mandrels (the steel rods that you make the beads on) in bead release and let it dry before you can start putting the hot glass on them.

If you didn't use bead release, the glass would stick (permanently) to the rods.

It comes right off with water when you're ready to remove the bead.

Amy
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  #54  
Old 2007-06-20, 10:03am
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You can clearly see all the mistakes I made in these beads but by the third one I had a pretty good idea of what goes into the making of one of these. The real key here is that you can't rush! As slow as you think you're going - go slower. Make sure to cover the opaque base dot completely with the transparent color or you get little edges peeking over and around. Make each set of dots smaller or they'll all be the same, or close to the same, size which kind of defeats the final effect. Line the dots up precisely or your design will "wander." Do not let the base bead get too hot or the whole bead will begin to move and gravity will take over. That happened in all three of these beads and you can see in the black areas between the colors that the design has begun to curve. Only let the flame lick the edge of the bead as you melt each level in. It takes a long time but that would have solved my wandering design problem. I've decided that I don't have the patience needed to make a complete set of these. They each took about 15-20 minutes.

In closing I say "All praise to Amy" I have a newfound appreciation for the time, skill, and patience you put into each of your beautiful and very precise works of art.
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  #55  
Old 2007-06-20, 1:10pm
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I found that too!
thanks for putting into words what I was finding out on the torch.
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  #56  
Old 2007-06-20, 2:40pm
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thank you amy, i just cant get a hold of that here in my country (portugal) no one does glass beads here
can you tell me where to buy those stuff, in europe please, cause if i receive it from the us there is too much burocratics to withdraw the goods from the airport and i have to pay a enourmous fee

do you know any european shop where i can buy those bead release?

and by the way,the beads you make seems like they come from the hands of a angel, keep up the good work and try shooting some video of you making them and putting on youtube or so... thanks for the help
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  #57  
Old 2007-06-20, 2:53pm
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just another thing, can you please tell me whats the difference with using a oxygen tank or not, and why do you use a kiln, the beads would not look that great without one?
im not very rich so im just starting and sticking with the cheapest things :s
and can you tell me where do you get the glass rods and the glasses you use!?
what does this glasses have in particular that you have to use them?
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  #58  
Old 2007-06-20, 5:21pm
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An oxygen tank or oxygen concentrator is for a dual fuel torch. A kiln is needed to anneal the beads. Without annealing the beads have internal stress and they can break. Glass can be purchased from a number of vendors depending on the type you want to use. If you're just starting out, 104 COE is probably best because it's a soft glass that isn't too expensive. Do a Google search for Moretti glass rods or Effetre glass rods and then check out the different stores that come up. Most of these stores will also have bead release.
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  #59  
Old 2007-06-20, 8:17pm
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If you have to get it from Europe maybe Suzanne knows a good place to order from. If you can accept packages from the US without too much to pay you should put your name and address in the RAGOK and see what happens. You can find it at the top of the page.
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  #60  
Old 2007-06-21, 6:58am
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thanks for the help, i allready putted there my adress
im new to lampwork and here in portugal there isnt any place to buy any material :s so i have to order from outside what becomes very expensive
the only site i found selling bead release in europe takes about 30$ for the cheappest one
and only for shippment i have to pat a extra 40$ so you see whats my problem
but ill try to get the money as i am so ancious to start making beads and lampworking
thank you all for all the help
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