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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #961  
Old 2013-04-24, 9:03am
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Kalera, I think I saw on Facebook that you made your own alcohol inks. I tried this, but I was so disappointed with my results. What I did was to mix Kool aid with alcohol. Do you do something different? I think you were showing a tile you had made with alcohol inks. Thanks!
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  #962  
Old 2013-04-24, 11:38am
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I believe I've read that you can take apart the sharpie markers and soak the nib in alcohol (I'm thinking maybe isoproponal?) to make your own alcohol ink. Once I run out of the ones I bought for stamping I was planning on trying it!

Tina
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  #963  
Old 2013-04-24, 12:15pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gracedorsey View Post
I have the whole sample set of Thompson Enamel powders and I'd like to paint with them on my beads. Should I use oil of lavender as a medium? Then, what should I need to know about firing them?
Grace, painting enamels typically are much finer than the enamels that Thompson makes for using with 104 glass. You could try grinding your enamels very fine -- or you could always try painting with the enamels as they are and see if you like the effect. It might be a little grainy -- or "impressionistic" in a cool way -- or it might be dreadful. Why not try? It's only glass.

Oil of lavender is one oil that can be used as a painting medium. Oil of clove is another, and then there's squeegee oil. I have no clue what that actually is made from (and I'm momentarily too lazy to Google for it), but it's an enamel painting medium. If you're going to use lavender, make sure it's real lavender oil, and not some "lavender-scented oil" made from who knows what.

Once you paint your enamels on and let them dry, you will need to fire them. Here's the tricky part. I can't locate any info on the firing temperature for the 9000 series (the COE 104 enamels). Enamels can fire anywhere from 1200 degrees-ish to 1500 degrees. If you want to, you can dodge the whole "what's the firing temp" issue by putting your painted beads (still on mandrels) in a cold kiln and heating them up nice and slowly to around 1000 degrees. Then grab the mandrel -- which will be hot, so don't use your bare hands -- and put the bead into the outer end of your flame. If you've preheated well enough, it shouldn't crack. Gradually bring the bead in and rotate it in the flame until the enamel looks like it has fused to the bead. Then put the bead back in the kiln.

Alternatively, you can kiln-fire the enamels. Put your beads into a cold kiln and take them slowly up to temperature. What temperature? That's where you'll need to do some experimenting (or guesswork). It will need to be higher than 1200 F, which unfortunately is around the temp where COE 104 gets soft. Ideally you want to find the fusing temperature for your enamels and program your kiln so that the bead hits that temperature and stays there for only a minute -- enamels don't take long to fire -- and then goes back down to annealing temp before the bead has time to droop out of shape.

Frankly, if I were you -- and if I were me, as soon as I get the chance -- I'd take a class with Margaret Zinser, and skip all the annoying trial-and-error stuff. Different strokes for different folks, of course -- you may enjoy the experimentation.

(I'm not sure who other than Margaret teaches enamel painting on beads. JC Herrell does it, but I don't know if it's part of what she teaches. Bronwen Heilman was teaching painting on flat glass and then wrapping it around a bead. I've heard Kate Fowle Meleney might be doing something with an enamel painting technique, but I'm not sure what.)

Here's a link that you might find interesting:

http://www.burtglass.com/glass_enamel_faq.htm
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Last edited by Emily; 2013-04-24 at 12:31pm.
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  #964  
Old 2013-05-14, 10:29pm
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Well, guess what? I was signed up to take a class with Margaret, but the class was canceled due to low enrollment at Bead Camp. That was my original plan....then I tried experimentation using a lot of the techniques you suggested. I didn't go up to 1200, but at 950 I took them out and flame fired them. I have 2 that I consider successful. I did use lavender oil...ordered online after getting some at Michael's that wasn't the real stuff. Next I will try grinding them a little finer. So far the main thing I'm disappointed with is the thickness. I wanted it to blend in more, but to do that I'd end up melting the "canvas." Another thing I'm disapponted with is that the colors are more instense than I want. I'm going to try sifting white over the whole thing tomorrow.

And on the topic of sifting, do you have any hints in regard to being neat? That is to keep the excess from ending up on my table? I'm a little phobic about cleaning up after I'm done with them and wish there were some ready made answers to keeping the microscopic bits out of the air and work space.

Thank you for letting me know that what I'm trying so far is the right way to go!
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  #965  
Old 2013-05-15, 9:56am
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Work over a container of water when you're sifting the enamel on to the bead. Loose enamel or enamel that misses your bead will fall into the water and not onto your work surface. And use good ventilation, etc.

Mimi
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  #966  
Old 2013-05-16, 8:19am
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Default vetrofond

Hi Kalera,

Love the bead you sent!

Wondering if you've ever worked much with Vetrofond? If so, can you tell me anything about their River Rock, Pale Pink (P), Yellow Ice and Pink Flower. And their 'Old" Black.

Someone is selling some in the Garage. I never "caught on" to Vetrofond -- stuck with Moretti until all the new ones came out. Wondering if these (or other) colors have any propertieis or reactivity or uniqueness that would make them special ...given the current availability of so much other glass?

Sorry .. what a mouthful!
Bab
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  #967  
Old 2013-06-03, 9:11pm
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I just wanted to post that I LOVE Kalera's Romance frit blend. I adore it on Effetre Periwinkle, but this weekend I tried it on CIM's Mermaid and CIM's Thai Orchid - the drool factor is nice!

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  #968  
Old 2013-06-07, 3:09pm
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I am really unsure of how this blog works, but the title of your post suggests that I can ask questions. I recently started lampwork so I guess you'd call me a newbie for sure. I just bought a sampler set of Reichenbachs Iris glass canes. I don't have any idea what they are supposed to look like, much less how to get the iris reaction to work. I assume they are reducing colors, but when I tried to reduce the few colors I tried, nothing happened. I really am a bit lost. I find very little info about 96 coe glass. I'm sure the info is out there, I just can't seem to find it! I would LOVe any direction I can get.

Anna
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  #969  
Old 2013-06-07, 6:34pm
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Anna, do a search here on LE for the term "Iris Orange" or "Raku." There's a ton of info.
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  #970  
Old 2013-06-09, 6:05am
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Are all reichecbach iris colors similar to the iris orange raku?
What about the transparent iris colors? What are they supposed to look like?
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  #971  
Old 2013-06-09, 11:23pm
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I have not tried all Iris colors, but I thought they all reduced? Even raku does. I think you'll have the best luck searching for each color as QuiteCuntrary said.

Also have you looked at glasscolor.com? They show most colors reduced and not, such as iris violet http://www.glasscolor.com/products/d...cID=23&pID=283

Iris Orange 'Raku" as said will reduce to silver, but most strike it to get colors, I believe that's the only one that is different in that aspect.
http://www.glasscolor.com/products/d...D=120&pID=1637

There is a huge thread in gallery (i think?) on working raku, you'll find it by searching, it's like a million pages lol
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  #972  
Old 2013-06-11, 6:36am
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I have a questions where can I find the metal piece that goes in a pandora style bead? What supplier do you use? Thanks
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  #973  
Old 2013-06-12, 6:47pm
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I believe Iris orange Raku is different from the transparent iris colors. The transparent iris colors do reduce. Someimtes when reducing it isn't enough to turn the propane up. Sometimes you also need to also turn down the oxygen. I hope that helps. Keep trying.

QUOTE=RedHotRedhead;4337051]Are all reichecbach iris colors similar to the iris orange raku?
What about the transparent iris colors? What are they supposed to look like?[/quote]
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  #974  
Old 2013-06-12, 7:30pm
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I'm not fond of Iris Orange reduced. It turns silver too and not the pretty colors I like for it. Angelique
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  #975  
Old 2013-06-13, 3:51am
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I agree. Iris orange shows it's colors best when struck.
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  #976  
Old 2013-06-14, 5:27am
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Thank you all for your help. I'm well on my way to figuring it all out!
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  #977  
Old 2013-06-14, 6:52am
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I have iris dk brown & it neither strikes or reduces.
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  #978  
Old 2013-10-10, 4:57pm
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I need to find out if there is any place where you can order the 220 silicon carbide without getting more than you'l ever need. The shipping costs more then the powder itself!
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  #979  
Old 2013-10-11, 12:58pm
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I have just finished reading through this thread and am amazed at how much information is in here. Does anyone know if the pdf file is still available. The posted link says the file has been deleted.

One other thing...I would like to repost this link for Kalera...going back to school as an adult is always a challenge but doing it with 3 children is amazing!
-Elaine

http://www.gofundme.com/1tzmoo
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  #980  
Old 2013-10-11, 4:33pm
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I did have a tblsp of it someone sent to me and I used ittfor the first time yesterday. It etches so much softer with none of the white residue. I like it alot better but it will not go into grooves and low spots.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cabaribeads View Post
I need to find out if there is any place where you can order the 220 silicon carbide without getting more than you'l ever need. The shipping costs more then the powder itself!
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  #981  
Old 2013-10-11, 5:49pm
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It lasts a long time, but yes, it only etches where it hits other beads, so not in the groves, etc.
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  #982  
Old 2014-05-24, 7:02pm
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Hi Kalera

Am back after a few years thru ill health and then travelling in retirement, now decided to sell of my gear but am in Australia and have lost my contacts can you suggest how to find Aussie Glassbeaders interested in full workshop of concentrator, kiln, minor burner and glass. Marlene Macleod macleod007@bigpond.com
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  #983  
Old 2014-05-24, 7:07pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlene View Post
Hi Kalera

Am back after a few years thru ill health and then travelling in retirement, now decided to sell of my gear but am in Australia and have lost my contacts can you suggest how to find Aussie Glassbeaders interested in full workshop of concentrator, kiln, minor burner and glass. Marlene Macleod macleod007@bigpond.com
Hi Marlene - gonna jump in here, as I'm an Aussie beadmaker in Adelaide....

You could try the Aussie forum:

http://www.glassbeadmakers.net/forum/index.php

and the Aussie beadmakers Facebook group....the Missfires:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/339942116079410/

You will need to apply to join the group.

Hope this helps, Steph
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  #984  
Old 2014-05-24, 10:31pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Dee View Post
Hi Marlene - gonna jump in here, as I'm an Aussie beadmaker in Adelaide....

You could try the Aussie forum:

http://www.glassbeadmakers.net/forum/index.php

and the Aussie beadmakers Facebook group....the Missfires:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/339942116079410/

You will need to apply to join the group.

Hope this helps, Steph
Tried Glass Beadmakers but got someone in the UK selling kitchen guess I am not up to scratch with the internet
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  #985  
Old 2014-05-24, 11:18pm
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Did you click on the link Marlene? Takes me straight there??
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  #986  
Old 2014-05-26, 6:02am
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Where is Kalera? Did she stop making beads?
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  #987  
Old 2014-05-26, 8:29am
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Went back to college, I believe.
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  #988  
Old 2014-10-21, 3:14pm
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Yup. She did, is...

She sure made some gorgeous stuff. The thread kind of took on a life of its own after she went back to school.

And it's so packed w/info it should be


bumped

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  #989  
Old 2015-06-16, 12:42pm
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This deserves anther bump!!
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  #990  
Old 2015-06-16, 5:08pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrsD View Post
I have iris dk brown & it neither strikes or reduces.

Actually it does strike for me. it likes being rolled in a beadroller or pressed in a bead press. I get subtle light greens, blues, purples and beige.
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