Has anyone tried pickling clear glass? - Page 4

FourTailsLampwork · #91 2011-02-08, 8:27am

I use 1 heaping tablespoon in a 14" lasagna pan that has enough water to cover the rods when there are a lot of rods in the pan

In other words, about half-strength of jeweller's pickle, which would be 2T to a pint.

Moth · #92 2011-02-08, 8:36am

Quote:

Originally Posted by FourTailsLampwork

I use 1 heaping tablespoon in a 14" lasagna pan that has enough water to cover the rods when there are a lot of rods in the pan

In other words, about half-strength of jeweller's pickle, which would be 2T to a pint.

That's how much I used too, and at first I didn't think it would be enough because it doesn't look like much. I took out a small bit in a glass dish, sprinkled some baking soda on top of it and it foamed up like crazy so then I believed it was enough. LOL

Seemed to do the job!
~~Mary

dianeconroy · #93 2011-02-10, 4:47pm

There was a thread in the bathroom yesterday about clear glass and some mentioned stripping or peeling their clear? What is that or how does one do that? I am imagining that the end result is the outer layer is removed making the glass have much better clarity, but not sure of the process. Someone also mention 2000 - 3000 grit wet sand paper, anyone else ever try this? Why can't it just come fabulous, life would be easier, I want to make beads not pickle, strip, peel and sand, but oh well it is what it is......

Fine Folly Glassworks · #94 2011-02-11, 6:54am

I bet many get wonderful results without the pickling, but getting down to pure clean glass sure makes a difference!

RSimmons · #95 2011-02-11, 12:29pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by dianeconroy

There was a thread in the bathroom yesterday about clear glass and some mentioned stripping or peeling their clear? What is that or how does one do that? I am imagining that the end result is the outer layer is removed making the glass have much better clarity, but not sure of the process. Someone also mention 2000 - 3000 grit wet sand paper, anyone else ever try this? Why can't it just come fabulous, life would be easier, I want to make beads not pickle, strip, peel and sand, but oh well it is what it is......

Peeling involves really heating the surface layer of a rod and peeling a thin layer off. I use flat-jaw needle-nose pliers. It works better on bigger rods for obvious reasons. The idea is to remove all of the scratches and associated junk from the surface before you try to encase anything. You do the same with Schott pucks for paperweight making. It takes practice.

Robert

Fine Folly Glassworks · #96 2011-02-11, 12:52pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSimmons

Peeling involves really heating the surface layer of a rod and peeling a thin layer off. I use flat-jaw needle-nose pliers. It works better on bigger rods for obvious reasons. The idea is to remove all of the scratches and associated junk from the surface before you try to encase anything. You do the same with Schott pucks for paperweight making. It takes practice.

Robert

SO that is how the crystal clear glass is produced in paperweights?

RSimmons · #97 2011-02-11, 1:01pm

Yep, for torch-worked paperweights anyway. You take a big piece of glass (sized for the weight you're planning), bring it up to heat in the kiln, take it out on a punty and peel the outside of it before you do anything else with it. I use Schott pucks for vacuum encased paperweights but I suppose that you could do this with big sections of rod as well.

Robert

Fine Folly Glassworks · #98 2011-02-11, 1:04pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSimmons

Yep, for torch-worked paperweights anyway. You take a big piece of glass (sized for the weight you're planning), bring it up to heat in the kiln, take it out on a punty and peel the outside of it before you do anything else with it. I use Schott pucks for vacuum encased paperweights but I suppose that you could do this with big sections of rod as well.

Robert

Thank you Robert. It's beyond me right now, but I am always collecting info for future directions. I'd love to see you work.

pittypat · #99 2011-02-12, 10:23am

I finally got some Ph-, now another dilemma. I have been trying to label and record (thanks again, Debbie!) all my glass. What are you all doing about the labels? Please help me out as I want to start pickling today.
Thanks.

Polgarra · #**100** 2011-02-12, 3:41pm

There are a couple of threads about labeling and there is the stash master thread

artiegirl · #**101** 2011-02-12, 3:51pm

I just pickeled some super clear and I am just amazed how clear my bead turned out thanks guys, I want to encase everything now.

essiemessy · #**102** 2011-02-12, 4:13pm

Fantastic!
I'll give the vinegar/salt method a go first, but I'm wondering (due to stuff already said about getting the best out of clears once at the torch) whether there's much point going the whole hog when one only has a HH anyway?
Just asking

RSimmons · #**103** 2011-02-12, 6:57pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by essiemessy

Fantastic!
I'll give the vinegar/salt method a go first, but I'm wondering (due to stuff already said about getting the best out of clears once at the torch) whether there's much point going the whole hog when one only has a HH anyway?
Just asking

Always go for the best you can manage, it's a good work habit to develop. Like buying a good (more expensive) tool instead of a cheap one, it pays off in the end.

Robert

dianeconroy · #**104** 2011-02-12, 8:44pm

tried pickling clear stringers, not much improvement. Maybe they were too scratched or something to begin with, may try sand paper

pittypat · #**105** 2011-02-12, 9:11pm

Thanks, Pol...I guess I really didn't ask my question the right way. And I suppose I know the answer...just re-label after pickling!!

Polgarra · #**106** 2011-02-12, 10:17pm

Pittypat, duh that makes more sense.

I can tell you what I did. I had new glass so I just pulled off the one tag in the bunch and put the rest in the pickle. I tried to fit several very different colors in at once but nothing that I might mix up. After I pull it out and dried it I would relabel one rod of each colors. Then I got the next batch started. I took the cleaned rods to my table and labeled them there while watching tv. It is not fancy but it worked.

pittypat · #**107** 2011-02-12, 10:23pm

Now that makes perfect sense!! Thanks, Pol...that sounds like a plan...now if you can just find out who bought my Burn Gel, I will be in bead heaven!!! Well, not quite, but it would make me feel a lot better.

Genea · #**108** 2011-02-14, 2:42pm

Hey everyone! I just did this pickling test as well. The rods look really shiny and clear and it does remove the scratches on the rod, but working the class doesn't seem to translate over to the same clarity.

What did you all think about the pickled glass after working it? Anyone have pictures of their pickled vs. unpickled?

Moth · #**109** 2011-02-15, 1:09pm

Nothing will ever compare to peeling the fat rods, but the pickling did seem to help quite a bit with using the 6mm rods that I don't peel. At least it will get me through the 3 pounds of them I bought until I can get more of the fat ones. So yeah...it was a noticeable improvement, but not a substitute for peeling and just as much of a pain in the patoot. IMO All that washing and acid and disposal and wiping and drying and then trying to store them nicely so they don't get re-filthed. I'll just peel 'em. LOL

~~Mary

dichromary · #**110** 2011-02-15, 1:58pm

A while ago I bought 2 lbs of Vetrofond super clear. Was it scummy and bubbly. The surface was sticky too. I was ready to toss the batch. Well, after pickling, they are usable now. Thank you for starting the thread.

Fine Folly Glassworks · #**111** 2011-02-15, 2:02pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moth

Nothing will ever compare to peeling the fat rods, but the pickling did seem to help quite a bit with using the 6mm rods that I don't peel. At least it will get me through the 3 pounds of them I bought until I can get more of the fat ones. So yeah...it was a noticeable improvement, but not a substitute for peeling and just as much of a pain in the patoot. IMO All that washing and acid and disposal and wiping and drying and then trying to store them nicely so they don't get re-filthed. I'll just peel 'em. LOL

~~Mary

Is there a tutorial somewhere on peeling rods? I can't imagine trying to do it without clear instruction!

Moth · #**112** 2011-02-15, 6:43pm

Kristina, here is exactly what I do. It is as simple as it sounds, it's just not fun at all. It feels slightly wasteful, but not as wasteful as buying glass you can't use. It's boring and tedious but a good thing to do when you have no inspiration for creating anything awesome, but feel guilty about not melting something. LOL

The fatter the rods you peel, the less relative waste you will have. I use the 10-13mm rods but you can use fatter ones. Thinner ones you lose too much, in my opinion, to make it worth the effort. I like this size because they preheat faster.

#1. Preheat the first 4-5 inches of your clear, fat rod. I put mine on a hotplate, but my hotplate gets super hot. If you don't use a really hot warmer, just stick the end in your kiln. Leave enough of a handle to hold so you don't get burnt.

#2. Once your rod is thoroughly preheated, remove it from the kiln and begin to introduce it into your flame. Start far out then move in closer to the cone of the flame. The idea is you are trying not to explode the rod of glass. Do not melt the rod to where it softens.

#3. Dial in a relatively sharp, hot flame.

#4. Use a pair of needle nosed pliers, or tweezers or whatever pincer tool you can get a good solid grip on that has strong jaws.

#5. Use the tip of your flame to quickly heat the surface skin of one side of the end of your clear rod to glowing. This is a spot heat only--don't heat the whole circumfrence of the rod. The idea is that you want to heat the outer layer to molten as fast as you can so that the inside core of the rod stays stiff. As soon as it glows, remove the rod from the flame, grab the glowing glass with the flat edge of your pliers and in the same motion as peeling a potato, drag your pliers and the glass you grabbed back toward the rod and pull it away. Drop the removed glass into a bowl of water. This is a fast motion because you have to get it off before it cools and gets stiff.

#6. Turn your rod 1/4 turn and repeat.

#7. I do the last 1 1/2" of the rod, then I do another round further up so I end up with about 3" of peeled rod.

#8. Form a gather with the glass you have peeled (right on the end of the rod) then use a maria to pull it down to the size rod you want to use. Remove it from your fat rod then proceed to peel more.

As you make your way up the rod, the work heats it as you go and I can usually clean all but the last 4 inches of rod before I have to punty up to the hot end, then stick the cold end in the kiln to preheat.

I am almost positive that Pati Walton demonstrates this in one of her videos if you have access to that. There is also a version of this at Tumbleweed glass but Steve does it a little different than I do. I'll check and see if I can find a youtube video of it and I'll come back and post a link.

~~Mary

ps. If you have a batch of clear that is actually pretty nice, but just has a big scratch down the side, or a scar of some sort you can spot peel that away and not have to completely peel the whole rod. I only go through the trouble of peeling the glass for the beads where flawless clear is really important. I don't peel for simple, opaque beads that are encased in clear. I peel for the super transparent jellyfish aquarium beads where the encasing can make or break the whole thing.

I'm still glad to have found out about this pickling thing. It really saved this 3 pounds of crappy clear I just bought.

Moth · #**113** 2011-02-15, 6:48pm

Here is Steve's link at Tumbleweed:
http://www.tumbleweedglass.com/videos.html

No luck at youtube. Still looking.

Here is a wet canvas thread detailing the process.
http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227747

Here is Lewis Wilson peeling a schott puck for a paperweight. Just pretend it is a rod of glass and you'll see the motion you need. I don't peel around though, I peel in swipes parallel to the rod.
http://www.crystalmyths.com/freevide...thalmicHiB.asp

Fine Folly Glassworks · #**114** 2011-02-16, 6:32am

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moth

Here is Steve's link at Tumbleweed:
http://www.tumbleweedglass.com/videos.html

No luck at youtube. Still looking.

Here is a wet canvas thread detailing the process.
http://www.wetcanvas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227747

Here is Lewis Wilson peeling a schott puck for a paperweight. Just pretend it is a rod of glass and you'll see the motion you need. I don't peel around though, I peel in swipes parallel to the rod.
http://www.crystalmyths.com/freevide...thalmicHiB.asp

Mary, thank you so much for posting this information. I titled it in case others ever do a search. It's so kind of you (and all of you) to help as you do!

2tumblingdragonz · #**115** 2011-02-16, 9:38am

Is it ok to pickle all glass rods? I'm just not sure if some have copper or other metallics that we would want cleaned off, or are those compounds solid within the rod and the pickle just cleaning off the outside of the rod? What about aventurine?
Namaste
Rowyn

Genea · #**116** 2011-02-22, 10:52pm

Hmmm not sure Rowyn. Looks like someone in this post above did it with dichro with no problem. Might want to ask her? You could always try a small snippet of the rod to test it out so you wouldn't ruin a whole one if it doesn't work.

DarkFlowerBead · #**117** 2011-02-23, 4:47pm

I just spent the day pickiling all my clear. I used a plastic bin because I didnt have a glass pyrex big enough. I mixed 10 C of vinegar with 1/4c of salt, heated to 140 degres F and soaked the rods for 20 minutes. After I let the rods set I drained the pickling liquid back into the pan, reheated to 140 and rinsed the rods. I used Pat's tip to let the rods drip dry using a role of paper towels to lay the rods on, then I repeated this process which each of my different clears so as not to mix them up. Each time i heated the pickle liquid to 140 between each soak. I have to say they rods look great, even the CiM which I had previously denounced as scummy. I made only one test bead due to limited time, but it seems to have made all the difference. I'll check the kiln in the morning and report back. The vinegar was a very inexpensive option and I didn't mind dumping it down the drain afterwards. I'm probably a convert now and will pickle just about everything. Wow...
Cara

glassbead · #**118** 2011-02-23, 5:04pm

I'm just gonna post this here. I am not a fan of any more chemicals, so I tried out the vinear / salt solution. I thought it was worthwhile. It was easy, didn't take long, and my clear and troubling transparents are performing better. Here is a link to a blog that I wrote about it with links to Patty's information, and the jewelry blog that I got my pickle recipe from.
http://isinglassdesign.blogspot.com/search?q=pickle

DarkFlowerBead · #**119** 2011-02-23, 7:07pm

Laurie, It looks like you and I had the same idea...no more chemicals but a simple and effective technique. I didnt have any heat proof containers large enough so I used plastic and heated between each batch. I checked the temp and it it was 140 when it went in to the plastic and no less than 110 when it came out 20 minutes later. Very low tech modification but still...great results. I got bonus points when i was done with all 6 batches (i also refreshed between batches with an extra 1/2C vinegar) I poured some baking soda in the drain before i rinsed down the vinegar salt solution. I'm thinking this was a low tech drain-o for my sink. Sure the kitchen smelled like I was coloring Easter eggs...but well worth it.
Cara

glassbead · #**120** 2011-02-24, 5:58am

Cara- double duty, that's great! I was lucky enough to find a pyrex container that is just the right size. I thought I had posted something on le about this when I did it, but I guess I forgot... My rods actually felt different when I did it- smoother somehow. Or maybe that was just my imagination?!