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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2014-03-03, 11:51am
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Glass-aholic
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2007
Location: CT, tolland CT
Posts: 4,332
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all you people.............!!!!!!
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Minor 10lpm Oxy-Con + HH on Propylene . . . . . .
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To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. hand dyed silk ribbons in many colors!
WASHERS & TOPPERS - layering components for interchangeable glass topper and to use in other jewelry/metalwork.:
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2014-03-03, 1:02pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 26, 2006
Location: west
Posts: 811
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with all the high drama reality shows on TV nowadays - LE is getting a run for its money /snicker
All the talk these days seems to be by fabric/fiber artists , which seems strange to me on a lampwork forum......
Makes me think glass artists have checked out since fire and fibers don't really mix......
--- fire typically wins
I know - I know -
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2014-03-03, 1:49pm
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Glass-aholic
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2007
Location: CT, tolland CT
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yeah.. I tried to make horse hair beads a few weeks ago (thinking that it works in high fired pottery and ceramics) but no luck, even keeping the hair out of the flame. my horse is missing a few strands... not quite Mohawk.. but a good chunk is gone! Told my mom I cut out burrs.. Haha! That's about as close to fibers and stuff that I get!
rock paper scissors fiber spock!
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Minor 10lpm Oxy-Con + HH on Propylene . . . . . .
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WASHERS & TOPPERS - layering components for interchangeable glass topper and to use in other jewelry/metalwork.:
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2014-03-03, 2:44pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 26, 2006
Location: west
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A horse with a Mohawk - sounds very Trojan horse-like lol - run the other way if anything starts crawling out of him/her/it..........
not sure if a horse is considered a him/her or it......
I only have fiber interactions when Marbles and glass rods try to hitch a ride.....exit stage right - very very fast.....
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaci
yeah.. I tried to make horse hair beads a few weeks ago (thinking that it works in high fired pottery and ceramics) but no luck, even keeping the hair out of the flame. my horse is missing a few strands... not quite Mohawk.. but a good chunk is gone! Told my mom I cut out burrs.. Haha! That's about as close to fibers and stuff that I get!
rock paper scissors fiber spock!
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2014-03-03, 5:59pm
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honorary bead lady
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Join Date: Jan 14, 2008
Location: Mostly the doghouse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaci
yeah.. I tried to make horse hair beads a few weeks ago (thinking that it works in high fired pottery and ceramics) but no luck, even keeping the hair out of the flame.
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There is a whole thread about this somewhere on here
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2014-03-03, 7:20pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 27, 2008
Location: Albion NY
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Have you ever made glass needles for those fiber types?
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2014-03-04, 3:28pm
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novembersfyre everywhere
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Join Date: Jun 11, 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3,833
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Hi Jaci!
How about this: a while ago you said you were going to write a tutorial for blown glass vessels that have a hole through the middle. Any plans to still do this? I'd pay for it!
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Mary Beth
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2014-03-04, 6:06pm
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honorary bead lady
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Join Date: Jan 14, 2008
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Altho this is boro, principle is the same...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7MZgQiYXvY
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2014-03-06, 8:24am
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Glass-aholic
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I don't write tutorials that people have to pay for maybe I'm old school lol! I haven't made another one since the first two. I just never had torch time that wasn't production work. So the basis of it is making a hollow, pressing it sorta flat. Have you ever done this kind of shaping with your vessels? Basically it involves gentle air pressure while using a mold of some kind. I use BBQ or spiral tongs mostly, but you can also do this in marble molds to get that perfect round shape. I do that before pressing a lot. You want a good surface area to work with. Remember you are creating a new wall entirely, so think about this too when you are looking at the thickness of your glass walls. Once you have a coin type shape young take peter tweezers or equivilant and state to collapse the center walls. You may notice that when you pressed your hollow you got a natrual dimple in the middle as well. The glass pulls away from the cold metal. This is a good spot to start too. It's easier to try and get the glass centered (front to back) rather than having a flat spot. It just creates less work in the long run. The hardest part about this is trying not to create holes or bubbles, bubbles can lead to holes when you go to widen the hole. This stage of collapsing the center needs to be done with relative spot heating, but you don't want to loose too much shape and you don't want a hole in your glass walls that will allow air to escape. You may need to give a light preasure of air to your vessel so too much of the sides to not collapse during this process as well. Then when you have a small area of glass together in the dimple you have to get through it! Just like when you are creating a bail, but you have thin hollow walls so you have to be careful of the preasure you put here and the overall heat of the object itself to prevent shock. You can use a pin point flame to get in that hole to help you, but you have to be mindful of either melting or popping a hole in a wall that will loose air. I use a pointed reamer to get in there. Once a small hole is made go at it from both sides alternating, with a reamer and start to slowley widen it. This is where you might start loosing shape or air and need to correct it Immediately. You will need to puff out a little to a more donut shape. Reshape, decorate, if desired, fire polish the hole, and pop in the kiln.
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Minor 10lpm Oxy-Con + HH on Propylene . . . . . .
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2014-03-06, 8:40am
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Glass-aholic
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Doing this on the end if a hollow mandrel is quite different than the video above actually. If I did that in soft the whole thing would have collapsed mid way through. Soft glass moves differently in this situation because of the size vs heat ratio I think in soft glass. This is one that fighting the collapse and not stretching your walls makes it a more stable process. I imagine you could probably not flatten your vessel but you would have a big deep hole and need thicker glass walls and more heat in general, then need additional shaping, and you would be stretching the glass more possibly creating thinner walls and leaving a bigger margine for popping through the trapped air walls. But yes in theory the boro video would work just fine too.
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Minor 10lpm Oxy-Con + HH on Propylene . . . . . .
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WASHERS & TOPPERS - layering components for interchangeable glass topper and to use in other jewelry/metalwork.:
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2014-03-06, 8:41am
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Glass-aholic
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I don't have pics cuz I haven't done this on the torch maybe in the office one day I'll draw some up. And try to take video next time I torch.
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Minor 10lpm Oxy-Con + HH on Propylene . . . . . .
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WASHERS & TOPPERS - layering components for interchangeable glass topper and to use in other jewelry/metalwork.:
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2014-03-06, 10:04pm
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novembersfyre everywhere
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Join Date: Jun 11, 2005
Location: Colorado
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Thanks for the video reference, David!
Jaci, thanks for your very clear explanation of the process. I had assumed it would be something like that but I guess I was hoping for a magical process.
It's practice as usual! I just need to try it now.
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Mary Beth
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2014-03-06, 10:10pm
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Slogan Challenged...
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2009
Location: Maricopa, Arizona
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Cool bead!
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Kristin ~
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2014-03-14, 7:45am
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one day at a time
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Join Date: Jun 27, 2005
Location: We are MOVING!!!
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I understand how you feel, Jaci! The room is SO booorrrriiinnngg right now! I'm thinking of a few things to post to liven it up around here.
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2014-03-15, 8:12am
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Glass-aholic
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2007
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I think the major problem with this room when it's quiet is that I spend all my time in the garage sale.......
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Minor 10lpm Oxy-Con + HH on Propylene . . . . . .
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