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Safety -- Make sure you are safe!

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  #31  
Old 2005-07-27, 7:46am
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I have a small studio 10x16 that we added to our home. I keep my LP tank outside on a small deck - my DH built a little "outhouse" for the tank (complete with siding & shingles....the man is obsessed!). One side has the slide the tank in/out and I keep a sort of window shade of vinyl wallpaper over that area in the summer. Seems that I get the breathing flame problem when the sun hits the tank directly in hot temps.
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  #32  
Old 2005-07-27, 8:50am
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Drag tank out of enclosure and turn garden sprinkler on it... It will cool it over time (several hours) and it will settle down... Maybe drape WET blanket over it and keep it wet with sprinkler. Evaporation will cool tank.

Dale
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  #33  
Old 2005-08-04, 11:47am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeAurelius
However, putting a pipe through the wall is not really that big of a deal. Takes a 1/2" drill, some caulk to fill in around the hole and pipe, and some fittings, plus shut off's on each side of the wall. Installing a pipe through the wall should not cost any more than about $50 and most of that expense is going to be the shut off valves.


OK I'm just not getting it. NOt the first time...you put a pipe in the wall. Do you do one for propane and one for O2? Then you connect your outside hoses to the pipes and also connect hoses inside to the pipe from the inside? It's not to run the outside hoses through to the inside, right?
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  #34  
Old 2005-08-04, 1:08pm
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MikeAurelius MikeAurelius is offline
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Ummmmmm....

Ok, yeah. I see where your confusion might be.

Let's talk about the propane first. When propane is run through a wall penetration (I just love that word!), it must be encased in a solid metallic tube, not a rubber one.

Here's the outline of how the fire code wants to see the work done:

Propane tank - flows directly into regulator that is mounted in the screw fitting on the propane tank.

From the low pressure side of the regulator, mount a flexible metallic pipe (similiar to what is used for gas clothes dryers), and run this flex pipe to a shut off valve.

The shut off valve is mounted on black pipe, which runs through the wall.

We are now inside the building.

On the wall side of the black pipe, mount another shut off valve.

From the shut off valve, run any type of metallic piping, such as soft wall copper, to a "distribution point".

At the "distribution point" there is another shut off valve, which then connects to "T" grade hose for direct distribution to the torch or torches.

If you want to keep your oxygen outside, a similar type of process can be done for the oxygen line. There is no maximum pressure requirement for oxygen, so you can run as much O2 through this separate line as you need to.

Don't put PVC pipe through the wall and then run rubber hose through it. This is a violation of fire code.

When I mention black pipe above, it doesn't have to be black pipe, it can be any hard wall, non-flexible type of pipe, such as stainless, galvanized, heavy wall copper.

On the inside of the building, plumbing from the first inside shut off valve to the "distribution point", the piping can be anything metallic, from soft wall copper to black pipe, to stainless or galvanized. Most of the time, soft wall copper is used because it can easily be bent (use a bending spring) to conform to walls, corners and other obstructions.

All joints must be either threaded or flare fittings. Do not use compression type fittings. If you use threaded fittings, be sure to use teflon tape or gas approved pipe sealant.

On the inside of the building, if the main run from the shut off valve to the "distribution point" is longer than 20 feet, the line must have a sign indicating the gas that is inside the pipe and the direction of flow. There must be a sign every 20 feet. This lets fire professionals know what is in the pipe.

The "distribution point" is anywhere where the gas line converts to "T" grade hose for end-use consumption at one or more torches.

For transitioning from metallic pipe to "T" grade hose, use standard brass fittings, threaded or flare, with a ribbed hose end on the opposite side to match the internal dimension of your "T" grade hose. For example: 3/8" pipe thread on one side, 1/4" male ribbed hose end on the other side.

If the run is going to be long, for example, more than 20 feet, consider increasing the size of the pipe by at least one pipe size. The length of the run from the propane tank to the distribution point in my studio is about 35 feet (up a wall to the ceiling, across the hallway, and down the wall on the other side). I ran 1/2" soft wall copper from the inside shut off valve to the distribution point valve, then 3/8" "T" grade hose from the distribution point valve to each torch.

Larger than 1/4" diameter hose will increase the amount of available volume of gas, giving you more "flow" at a consistent pressure. This is especially important if you have more than one torch, and/or one large torch and several smaller torches. The larger diameter hose will decrease flame fluctuation as the large torch is turned on or off, or if the outer fire ring is suddenly turned on or off (like if you have a foot pedal installed).
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  #35  
Old 2016-07-22, 2:45pm
cindylee57 cindylee57 is offline
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Default heat and Propane tank

I have been getting a smoke looking stuff coming out of my torch before I light it. Its been hot in Illinois and I even chsnged the tank and it was fine and again its doing it. Can someone tell me uf its the heat and will that smokey substance ruin my hose. My tank is in the shade on my deck but it does get some sun??? help
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  #36  
Old 2016-07-23, 11:42am
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I don't know what to tell you.


Does it continue to come out after a few ( seconds? Or is it just a puff at the beginning?


The type of gas hose you are using has to be labeled as "type T" when using propane.

The hoses used with acetylene will disintegrate from the inside when they get used with propane for very long and that can get dangerous.
You usually get a gummy liquid spitting out of the torch when that happens.


Wish I better information for you.

This the first I have heard of this.
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  #37  
Old 2016-07-28, 9:32pm
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Most propane will put off some smoke before you add the oxygen. this is normal due to incomplete combustion. That is why we use the oxygen!
Also if the tank sets in the heat for a while the pressure inside climbs as the temperature of the liquid propane increases. This is also normal. It can not climb above a preset level due to a safety release devise built into the valve assembly.
The increased pressure can push a little extra at the torch on start-up. That will make the flame a little "dirtier" for a bit. The more expensive 2 stage fuel regulators can help some. Or just start with a very small propane flame and add oxygen right away and then "step - up" a little of each until you reach a working flame.
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