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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2013-02-21, 9:23am
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 24, 2013
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 26
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Ponti question...
You are supposed/not supposed to use a pyrex ponti to attach to a piece in order to work or sculpt and is removed prior to annealing?
I spoke to someone who blows glass and states that 104 should never be used with 33 COE....
Who is right?
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2013-02-21, 9:27am
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Salt Box Beads
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Join Date: Oct 23, 2005
Location: Heading to Paradise
Posts: 4,161
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I use 33 coe punties with my 90 and 104 for pulling large canes.
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2013-02-21, 9:29am
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 24, 2013
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 26
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So you do combine the two... just to hold it in place right?
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2013-02-21, 9:31am
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I'm meeeeelting
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Join Date: May 27, 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 2,236
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Many people do it, but you need to be very careful that you don't leave any 33 attached or melted to your 104 piece or it will crack.
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2013-02-21, 9:32am
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 24, 2013
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 26
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Great thanks so much!
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2013-02-21, 9:32am
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 24, 2013
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 26
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and i love your avatar Artsyuno!
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2013-02-21, 9:50am
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specializing in obnoxious
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Join Date: Jul 19, 2008
Location: Sacramento California
Posts: 558
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I like using a boro punty to pull my 104 glass. I can get my gather good and hot without my punty wilting. But, as mentioned above, I make sure that NO boro is in my final product.
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Sarah
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2013-02-22, 11:46am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 23, 2007
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 1,332
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Considering the vastly different viscosities of the two, it's actually very easy to get all the boro off your soft glass piece. And the boro punty won't melt or crack like a rod of 104.
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~Jenny
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2013-02-22, 2:02pm
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I'm meeeeelting
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Join Date: May 27, 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 2,236
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It's easy if it's not melted in. I've seen beginners get the connection so hot that it's no longer an attachment you can knock apart.
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2013-02-25, 9:21pm
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hyperT
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Join Date: Jan 31, 2013
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 582
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Soft glass hot not molton. Pyrex less hot. attach your handle and reheat the boro a bit as you work occasionaly just a few brushes through the fire from time to time, If you do this right they will separate easily. With practice you will not chip the soft glass when you remove the handle. I just tap it against my torch to remove the handle then fire polish where it was attached. One can get good enough at this so you don't even have to fire polish after removing the hard glass. Practice seeing how cold you can attach them without problems. As far as who is right there is no way you can use pyrex with soft glass unless you know how to do graded seals. You can get away with a difference of 4 in COEs In other words you can seal a 90 coe to a 94 coe etc. I think the glassblower misunderstood you and thought you were talking about fusing them permanantly. Graded seals would bridge the gaps between the two glasses each grade compatable with the one before and after it until the difference is reached. I added that in because I can look into the future and know people will be asking what heck that is LOL
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2013-02-26, 4:57am
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Run Free Sweet Boy
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Join Date: Jan 29, 2008
Location: Orlando, Fl.
Posts: 2,194
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I tend to use the coe of glass the item is made from as a punty.
if I am pulling murrini etc.. I make a big maria on the end of a fat boro rod and attach to each end before the pull.... you want as much surface of the end of the murrini covered with the maria as possible.... this makes for a more even pull and less waste at the ends of the cane from distortion as its pulled
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