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Jelveh Designs - Glass Beads Torched One-by-One

Beads of Courage


 

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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #31  
Old 2007-08-13, 7:07am
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the annealing cycles in the dunham book are not very conservative for larger work, i found this after using them religously but then upon checking with a polariscope the holds werent long enough and the ramp down i slowed considerably. for about an hour and inch is what i do. so 1 1/2" at least 1 1/2 -2 hrs. hold 1050 ramp 50-60 per hour to 900 then off.could do down to 910 strain point and another hold, ive not found this nec. i just do about 60/hr to 900 then off.
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  #32  
Old 2007-08-13, 7:28am
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"for about an hour an inch is what i do" - Ro ..... you're such a show-off!

If I took that approach I'd be "annealing" for days ... MWAHAHA
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  #33  
Old 2007-08-13, 7:38am
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keeping in mind of course that there's no such thing as over-annealing
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  #34  
Old 2007-08-15, 1:12pm
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and still no tutorial Please post one I have a bigger torch now I must try this
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  #35  
Old 2007-08-16, 2:59am
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yeah come on!
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  #36  
Old 2007-08-16, 8:24am
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They are very simple to do. Basically heat the rod and condense or pull it out to whatever design you like. Then put it in the kiln.

If you have a lathe they are pretty much hands-free. If not, invest in a good set of rollers before you attempt it. Two sets would be even better. I've done them without rollers and it's not fun.
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  #37  
Old 2007-08-16, 5:19pm
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I wonder if hot fingers would be sufficient if I don't have rollers? I noticed that it's very difficult to keep the punty on the piece because of the weight. Lana
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  #38  
Old 2007-08-16, 5:42pm
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I'm not sure why no one wants to do a tut, but here's my first attempt . . .(well, the first one that didn't crack or fall on the floor, LOL) pitiful and simple, but I managed to burn myself a few times, so I hope that counts for something. So, I am not a expert by any means, but this is what I did.

1. I made a vortex just like you would for a pendant but kept it reasonably round, puntied it up to the front and stuck it in the kiln. It looked sort of like a large marble, but slightly elongated.
2. Rounded one end of a clear glass rod and applied dots which were almost melted in and smooth.
3. Heated the rod a few inches down from the dotted end and bent it.
4. Puntied up to the dotted end and melted off the other end of the rod to the desired length.
5. Brought the round portion out of the kiln and hot sealed it to the melted off part of the rod.
6. Annealed it for 2 hours.

I was very concerned about the vortex end not being sufficiently attached to the rod, as this could be a disaster.
If anyone has any suggestions on how to contruct these better I would appreciate it some feedback. Again, if this is in an inappropriate place, please move it, I don't want to offend anyone.
Thanks, Lana



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  #39  
Old 2007-08-17, 9:25am
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respect for your courage to post this tute, good work!

the glass in the vortex, what is it? aurora or something like that? is it on the surface or cased in clear?
the high oxide glasses can produce weaker joins than normal. due to the high concentration in metals, often they are borderline compatible ... depending on how you work them. chrome greens are also notorious for being borderline. Not to mention possible allergic reactions to the metals in the glass if the colours are used in the surface (I'm thinking of the exotics, for example).
personally I don't use colours at all ... which is not to say they can't be used or are generally unsafe or anything ... but it takes several issues out of the equation ... and in my opinion, if you're making implements to be used on sensitive bits, you can't be too safe.
It's a bit useless to put colour in, anyway, I recon. It might look pretty, but is it going to get a girl more aroused if there's an imploded orchid at the end of the knob? ... also, I've looked a few times and as far as I can tell there are no eyes "down there" (contrary to popular myth) so again, not really any joy from the colour. And you're hardly going to display it on your mantlepiece like a trophy didlo ... or?

If you have problems with your arms getting tired, rest them in-between and garage it. Rollers were mentioned, but I find those really restrictive and I only use them for making 5 foot dildoes. For people who have problems pulling points out of heavy rod, try this. Have a think first, how long should it be? who will use it ... ie, it may look different if it's designed for someone to use on their partner as opposed to one which is a solo implement. In other words, think of the design you want before you make it ... do some research, it's fun . Anyway, cut a length of X diameter rod (I use 20 or 25mm) about 1/3 longer than you need, attach something like a 9 or 10 mm handle on either side of your section. Those punties are unlikely to break and are still small enough for comfortable turning. And away you go. Push, pull, dot on knobbly bits, put in a curve and remember all the good annealing advice fron the previous posts ... make something that you would want to use, you would feel safe using ...
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  #40  
Old 2007-08-18, 12:47am
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Hey wicked glass.... i have been looking for reasonably priced thicker diameter clear to make dildos for ages. I have found one place that has 24mm for around $50 a 1.5 metre length. Do you know where I can get it cheaper anywhere in Australia??

thanks!
Leanne
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  #41  
Old 2007-08-18, 1:17am
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hi Leanne,
have you tried Schott Australia in Sydney (suburb I think is Frenchs Forest from memory) ... call there and ask for Christine ... you'll have to get a box of it, though as they don't sell by the length. and I'm not sure how much it is, either.
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  #42  
Old 2007-08-18, 10:12am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wickedglass View Post
the glass in the vortex, what is it? aurora or something like that? is it on the surface or cased in clear?
Hi wickedglass,
I'd have to go back a look at my notes, but I believe the vortex was blue moon, egyptian white sands, one of the exotic citrus Momka colors and maybe Turquesa or Spring Luster. It was just imploded a little and rounded out. Lana
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  #43  
Old 2007-08-18, 10:21am
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Speaking of color, the maker of dildos on this site below uses surface decoration of color or dichroic along the shaft that is raised and looks like it is not encased-- is this unsafe? What about the gold fuming? How is the inside out work done on this pieces? What size tube is needed?

PLEASE do not click on this link if you are easily offended -- this is an adult sex toy site and there is nudity and other photos which may be offensive to some. Again, please move this post if it needs to be moved.

phallix glass






Last edited by ginkgoglass; 2007-08-18 at 10:55am.
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  #44  
Old 2007-08-19, 2:33am
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Hi Lana,
All that stuff is probably as safe as houses, I was speaking from personal preference in my earlier post. The fuming may be safe, the high oxide colours may also be safe, the dichroic probably too.
personally, though, I would not have anything on the surface at all, especially not fuming or colours which fume off. Like I said, they may all be safe, but also maybe one day someone may come along who's terribly allergic to metal oxides, get very sick and sue the ass off me. Who knows? I certainly don't ... and I'm not going to risk anything like that happening!
If I were to use any colours at all, I'd be using colours like cobalt blue, red elvis, ... that sort of thing and encase it in a tube first before I used it, or possibly make it an inside-out version. There's various ways of making i/o ,,, but you may run into more problems with those, too. Some i/o techniques are notoriously difficult to keep air traps out of. What can happen with air traps is that the air in them is hot, and therefore less dense. when it cools down it creates somewhat of a vacuum. If the bubble is large enough and the right kind of shape, and the glass hot enough at this stage, the bubble will contract and may pull some glass in. In some cases this can cause an internal sharp edge which will cause the glass to crack. So when doing an i/o tube -> solid rod be aware of this and trap as little air as possible.
One way of doing an internal colour twist would be to take a rod, lay colour around this rod (ie, you may want to do colour, clear, colour, clear, etc, to get lines like on the image you posted. Fasten this with a hose clamp and sleeve the appropriate size of tube over it. The tube should have an open handle to it (whether a pulled point or an attached smaller tube) so you can suck on this to help take out the air as you work your way along the tube with the flame ... you may start twisting the spiral as you fuse the whole thing together, or you can fuse everything first and then twist it all up ... does this make sense?
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Last edited by wickedglass; 2007-08-19 at 2:52am.
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  #45  
Old 2007-08-19, 4:48pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wickedglass View Post
Hi Lana,
One way of doing an internal colour twist would be to take a rod, lay colour around this rod (ie, you may want to do colour, clear, colour, clear, etc, to get lines like on the image you posted. Fasten this with a hose clamp and sleeve the appropriate size of tube over it. The tube should have an open handle to it (whether a pulled point or an attached smaller tube) so you can suck on this to help take out the air as you work your way along the tube with the flame ... you may start twisting the spiral as you fuse the whole thing together, or you can fuse everything first and then twist it all up ... does this make sense?
Yes, this does make sense and thanks for your help. I am looking forward to trying this, but unfortunately it is over 100 degrees F here in Memphis so I will wait till in cools down in the Fall here or maybe for a rainy day. Making dildos can be very hot (pun intended).

Lana
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  #46  
Old 2007-08-19, 6:00pm
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I've made thousands of toys. I wish I could be more specific, but I don't have the energy to type all of this out right now. I'm sick.

Phallix is not a product I would recommend. Some of their stuff was being made in China and I saw some scary stuff make it to the stores. Let's just say quantity and price is what they seemed to be shooting for, not quality. This may have changed, because I haven't been in the biz for a while. I just wouldn't trust it based on the work I've seen. Some of their designs are very good... and their US made products were also top notch.

As far as color goes... it's always safer to encase it in clear if there's a question about metal content. That way it's a non-issue. If you use mostly clear, you can check for stress with a polariscope. I'd suggest making one before you sell anything or allow anyone other than yourself to use the pieces you make. I can give you some info on that as well. They aren't hard to make.

Send me a PM and I'll get you my number if you don't already have it.
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  #47  
Old 2007-08-19, 7:50pm
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Thanks Brent! And I appreciate your input on the Phallix site -- some of their designs are beautiful and quite expensive as well. I think I still have your number in my mobile from the Asheville class -- I'll give you a few days and call you -- sorry you are sick. Lana
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  #48  
Old 2007-08-25, 9:23pm
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I've made a couple and basically I just "freehand" the design. That way I'm not infringing on someone else's and every one is unique. The hardest part I have is completing both ends nicely since it is a little tough to simply punty up to the done end while working the other end. I mean hey, it's cooling...how do I go back and flame polish it now? My solution has been to "flame anneal" as I work down the shaft. All the carbon cooks off in the kiln (and yes, I increase my annealing times substantially) and it allows me to go back to the other end to do the minor amount of work to take off the holding rod and clean up the mark. Smooth and punty scar free is far more crucial here than with some piddly little pendant. Even still, I still get a fair amount of loss from cracking. The one up on my site (see below for addy) that has the teardrop handle ended up that way because a sizable portion got wrecked by a breeze when my wife came to visit the workshop.

I tried hot fingers but they don't grip deep enough to give me the leverage I need to keep the piece from moving inside the tool. Sounds much dirtier than it is, trust me.

If you want to see the few I've made, have a look at my site, munkinarts.com. There's not a lot up there now, I've been focusing on ornaments at the moment so I can do some small craft shows locally this fall.

Tom
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  #49  
Old 2007-12-06, 10:49pm
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I've done a few dildos similar to this and usually the haze at the fuse is caused by a combination me forgetting to clean the glass before I start the project and getting impatient when I fuse them. Try heating where your gonna fuse the head and shaft and slower and putting a stable color or a small amount of clear on the bottom of the head so the exposed color doesn't boil during the fuse. Other than that i think everything is covered. From what the ones that buy them say sweeping curves are enjoyed as well as entirely non human shapes be creative with it.
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  #50  
Old 2007-12-14, 7:51am
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Start like mentioned before with 20-25mm rod, punty it to 10-12mm(make sure you have a good clean seal) Start at one end and work your way thru the piece. If you work from one end to the other and dont go backwards you should be able to fenangle it w/o any cracking. Once you get to the end remove the 1st punty, very slowly with a LARGE neutral to reducing flame heat up the whole piece to 1 even temp, so its just about moving. This will remove any stress in the piece and make it "relax".

to remove the last punty.....You can do it right at the end ifyou have good armor and can hold a piece of glass straight outta the flame (very hot!) or you can kiln it and cut it off once its sat at 1040 for a bit. If you choose to do the latter it may cause cracking the odd time due to uneven heat in the piece.

You deffenitly do not want to use hot fingers on these, itll scratche the surface, Ive found kevlar gloves or the black carbonized mats to work the best.
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  #51  
Old 2008-02-08, 9:01pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wickedglass View Post
It's a bit useless to put colour in, anyway, I recon. It might look pretty, but is it going to get a girl more aroused if there's an imploded orchid at the end of the knob? ... also, I've looked a few times and as far as I can tell there are no eyes "down there" (contrary to popular myth) so again, not really any joy from the colour. And you're hardly going to display it on your mantlepiece like a trophy didlo ... or?
I heartily disagree! I think women would feel way more comfortable & less intimidated by a toy that is aesthetically beautiful. Frankly, I think a lot of the stuff out there in the shops is a little creepy and 'slutty' feeling - probably due to the domination of marketing to men (although that is starting to change). People should want to look at, touch and examine something that is going to touch them so intimately. -jen
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  #52  
Old 2008-02-09, 8:44am
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i've made a few... i made a few rollers to work it... and i just work the 'head' and shaft first, and flame anneal and let air cool. had a few fracture on me, but not too many... once its cool enough to handle, i'll then work the end. then off to the kiln... i tried working the whole piece at once, and just dont have enough heat protection...
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  #53  
Old 2008-03-07, 4:19am
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You said rod....lol
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  #54  
Old 2020-11-20, 10:49am
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Did you keep creating these?
The first models looked really promising.
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