What to do with tiny boro tubing?

e. mort · #1 2006-01-16, 8:51am

I was given a big bunch of boro. It consists of 4mm rod, 12mm tubing with a2.5mm wall, and some really tiny stuff: 5mm with a 1mm wall, and 3mm with a .5mm wall. I think it was used for pipettes. Is the small stuff worth saving or should I just throw it out?

Also, what size rod should I get if I want to start making marbles, and where is a good place to buy where you don't have to invest in a whole lot of it?

Thanks!

Eric

Cosmo · #2 2006-01-16, 9:11am

The 12mm tubing is good for blown beads. I also use it for encasing opals. The 4mm rod is good for dots, and good for pulling off excess glass from points.

The other really small tubes, well, I don't have any suggestions for those.

For marbles, I use several sizes. I use 6, 8 and 10mm for punties. For the marbles themselves I use 10, 12, 14 and 16mm rods. For vortexes I use 1" rods as the base of the marble. I can get 14-16 1.5-2" vortex marbles from a rod of 1" clear. I also use the 1" for implosions. I punty up to the end of the 1" with a 12mm rod, then burn off the 1" about 1" from where I started, so I have a gather of glass about 1" x 1" ready to go.

But, the size you use depends on the size marbles you want to make (which also depends on the size torch you have). Also, different designs require different size rods.

boroburner · #3 2006-01-16, 9:20am

the 12 2.2 is good for blow tube too if you dont like points. I agree with chad about the 4mm, its also good for wiping.

MikeAurelius · #4 2006-01-16, 10:06am

Use the small diameter tubing for frit, that's about all it's good for. Wanna buy some more?

Kalera · #5 2006-01-16, 10:11am

I have bunches of that tiny stuff too, from a big lot I purchased from a guy who was getting out of lampwork. One suggestion I heard that sounded potentially intriguing was to use it to house the wick in oil lamps. Anpther was to bundle it, slowly heat and twist, and end up with a cane full of tiny bubbles.

minicutter · #6 2006-01-16, 1:52pm

Erik, You can send what you dont want to me.I like to experiment

Joni

alissa · #7 2006-01-17, 9:46am

Someone was talking about taking rods and encasing them in tubing by just tossing them in there, then heating from one end to the other to force out bubbles. So if you've got rods sitting around that are really thin... lol. That sounds like a huge pain in the bedonkadonk.

Cosmo · #8 2006-01-17, 9:50am

Quote:

Originally Posted by alissa

Someone was talking about taking rods and encasing them in tubing by just tossing them in there, then heating from one end to the other to force out bubbles. So if you've got rods sitting around that are really thin... lol. That sounds like a huge pain in the bedonkadonk.

That works, but you need larger tubing to do it. I encase crayon colors with clear, but it has to be larger ID than the OD of the rod.

DesertDreamer · #9 2006-01-17, 11:10am

I use the 4 mm rod for encasing all the time. Melts in FAST.

baylie · #10 2006-03-14, 7:50pm

Use the tiny stuff for raking, just be sure to leave the other end open.

e. mort · #11 2006-03-14, 8:14pm

I also found out yesterday that the "pyrex" small tubing that is 5 mm wide with a 1mm wall isn't even pyrex. It is some sort of softglass.

I have no idea which one it is so I am going to put it away until I find out.

The tiny tubing (3mm with a .5mm wall) I have been using for puntying and pulling really nice thin stringers. However, I will try it for raking as Baylie suggested.

Eric

Juln · #12 2006-03-15, 2:03pm

That 3mm will work for putting small clear dots on stuff. It's not so tough to avoid the air bubble.

boroburner · #13 2006-03-30, 7:47am

I think i saw a presentation piece of a GTT torch made with the super small tubing.

B

IF-Designs · #14 2006-03-30, 8:00am

the small tubing would be interesting I wonder if it could be used like seeded glass to encase!

e. mort · #15 2006-03-30, 8:28am

I tried encasing with it, but my bubbles didn't turn out very uniform. It would probably work ok, I just need more control with my heat and to remember to twist the tube as soon as it is down so the air doesn't escape. Boy, that is the first time I have complained about not being able to trap air when encasing.

Eric

chayes · #16 2006-04-03, 8:35pm

PHP Code:


			
Use the small diameter tubing for frit, that's about all it's good for.

i use 9.5 and 12.7 for handles when worknig big stuff, points just don't cut it.

Emily NZ · #17 2006-04-04, 4:05am

I use to use capillary tubing. I like to put some fine silver down the inside and then use it when encasing. It does some neat things.
I have also drawn down some turbo cobalt then put the thin stringer inside the tubing. You can get really fine looking lines doing that.
The other thing I used to do, was put the end of the capillary tubing into a liquid gold solution. It draws up a little of the liquid. Then use the tubing to encase on a dark colour..... rows of tiny wee bubbles...COOL!
Use ventilation when using metals.
Emily

boroburner · #18 2006-04-04, 9:36am

I wonder if you bundled em together and sealed the ends if you could make a "cane" with air twist in it. Like the old venetian goblets?

B

Birdy · #19 2010-01-30, 10:27pm

I've been looking for some of the tiny boro tubing, preferably 3mm or smaller. Anybody want to sell some? Please PM me if you do. Don't need a lot - maybe 1/2 or 1 lb...or whatever!

Birdy

BeadieEyedWoman · #20 2010-01-31, 2:54am

I would like some tiny tubing as well

chayes · #21 2010-01-31, 5:16am

I have some 3mm, it was very expensive and glows under a black light.

kittyluv4ever · #22 2010-01-31, 7:13am

If anyone is looking to get rid of some the capillary tubing I would be interested in some as well.

Birdy · #23 2010-02-01, 1:44pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by chayes

I have some 3mm, it was very expensive and glows under a black light.

Is that Uranium glass?

Birdy

e. mort · #24 2010-02-01, 2:18pm

Just a reminder folks, this thread is almost 4 years old, so I don't have any of that glass anymore.