Absolute TOTAL frustrations with CLEARS !!! HELP !

[dla]

I am just about ready to give up with clear glass (104 coe) ! I've been using Lauscha clear for a while and now, this new batch I got a month or two or three ago is turning YELLOW when I melt it. Is it ME burning it, or what ? I clean the rods before use. And with the so called "crystal" clear moretti or vetro or what ever it is - what's so crystal clear about it ??? I'm getting A TON of bubbles, scratches, etc. Crap, I am so and just tired of it !
Any ideas ?
Thanks,
Debbie

[Kevan]

I'm right there with you, Debbie. I've become really disappointed. The Lauscha cracks. The Diamond Clear I got was the worst, I'm sure it was a bad batch or so I have been advised, but...disappointing.

I have tried a new clear from CIM that I am very excited about. I got a sample of the new Double Helix (which is not for sale yet) and it looks great in the rod, no scratches on the outside.

I just bought some of the bigger rods of Vetro Crystal, but when I got them home, I noticed a line of bubbles on one side that I could feel!

Lots of people swear by the Diamond Clear. You might want to try that. And supposedly Lauscha has a new formula clear that won't crack.

Oh, and Reichenbach is now making the Lead crystal in a 104. I haven't tried it, but I do kinda like the Lead Crystal 96.

[dla]

Well, I had a nice long response to your post Kevan then my damn computer froze ! And it was while I tried using one of those smilies ! lol !

To the glass. Well, after reading the thread Kendra brougt up about the new Lauscha, I was thinking of trying it and still might however, I haven't heard anything more about it like the results anyone might be getting. I did see where it needs to be garaged at 980 so no biggie there. CAN ANYONE POST THEIR RESULTS WITH THIS GLASS before I start spending the big bucks ??

I've got POUNDS of clear just sitting that is so scratched, bubbled and scummed up that I guess I'll just use as a base on some but not the one with the bubbles ! lol !

Maybe I'll try the diamond clear by (Moretti ? or Vetro ? or whoever ?) and can ANYONE tell me what THEIR last batch purchase was like ?

Why is it do dang hard for the glass makers to make a nice bubblefree, scratch free, scum free CLEAR glass ?

Hmmm, lead crystal by R. Where does one pick up that one ?

Thanks for the suggestions & response Kevan. I guess we are all in the same boat and I see no reason for that.
Debbie

[fireglassgirl]

I have had problems in the past with Lauscha cracking, and started putting my beads in the kiln while they're still glowing. They're pretty big, so I keep twirling them for 30 secs or so until they firm up. I keep my kiln at 960.
I searched for something better, but I LIKE Lauscha. I'm just stubborn, I don't want to change, and the last two batches I bought seem to be working.

[RyanTheNumberImp]

When I order clear that isn't lauscha, I always ask for/buy one rod before I commit. I have never had any issues with lauscha so I feel pretty confident that it will be ok.

I find that vetrofond can be inconsistent. When I find a usable batch I load up on it since it's cheaper and softer, however I prefer not to use it in beads when I can avoid doing so.

Moretti isn't all that bad in thick rods, but I already have more than enough clear to bother buying some of it as well.

I have never tried any of the other clears. IMO when clear is the most expensive glass you are buying something is wrong. In total, I have about 30lb of usable clear and quite a bit of unusable clear.

If it comes down to it, you can peel a rod and set it down for later. "Peeling" a rod involves quickly searing the surface of the rod and pulling the thin layer off. I really think you need to see it being done to get how it works since it sounds really weird, but it is quite easy.
Essentially, heat one side of the rod as fast as possible and grab the top with tweezers and just scrape downwards to pull all the scum and junk off the surface. It works better with thicker rods since you are removing quite a bit of glass. When its absolutely critical to have perfect clear I may peel a few inches of lauscha and use that.

[Starrr]

The only clear I'll use anymore is Ron's (R4), clear, it's well worth the cost.

I've got 6 years worth of crappy Moretti, Vet and Lauscha clear, all the batches, and I'm using them up in frit beads and as a base for all the silver glasses.

If you find clear glass on sale or at a good price, expect to get just what you pay for! LOL

[dla]

Originally Posted by fireglassgirl

I have had problems in the past with Lauscha cracking, and started putting my beads in the kiln while they're still glowing. They're pretty big, so I keep twirling them for 30 secs or so until they firm up. I keep my kiln at 960.
I searched for something better, but I LIKE Lauscha. I'm just stubborn, I don't want to change, and the last two batches I bought seem to be working.

I haven't had any problems with the Lauscha clear cracking except once when I encased over violet. I've always put them in the kiln at least a little glowing. The problem has been the scratches and turning yellow. Especially the last batch I got. The older Lauscha I had was great ! I too prefer Lauscha but when I get icky batches like the last one I begin to wonder....And when you pay the big bucks for that glass not only is it discouraging, it rather upsets me ! lol !
Debbie

[dla]

Originally Posted by Starrr

The only clear I'll use anymore is Ron's (R4), clear, it's well worth the cost.

Ok, where might I find this ? I don't mind paying premium for a good, clear glass as long as when I do get it, it is pretty much scratch free and scum free ! And is this 104 compatible ?
Thanks,
Debbie

[dla]

Originally Posted by RyanTheNumberImp

When I order clear that isn't lauscha, I always ask for/buy one rod before I commit. I have never had any issues with lauscha so I feel pretty confident that it will be ok.

I find that vetrofond can be inconsistent. When I find a usable batch I load up on it since it's cheaper and softer, however I prefer not to use it in beads when I can avoid doing so. So far, ALL of the Vetro that I've gotten has been cruddy.

Moretti isn't all that bad in thick rods, but I already have more than enough clear to bother buying some of it as well. Yes, the bigger rods do seem "better" to a certain degree.

I have never tried any of the other clears. IMO when clear is the most expensive glass you are buying something is wrong. In total, I have about 30lb of usable clear and quite a bit of unusable clear. Wow ! That's alot of clear !

If it comes down to it, you can peel a rod and set it down for later. "Peeling" a rod involves quickly searing the surface of the rod and pulling the thin layer off. I really think you need to see it being done to get how it works since it sounds really weird, but it is quite easy. I've read of this technique but don't think I have the patience ! lol ! I don't use alot of clear except when encasing but with all this crappy clear that I do have, I'll use it up as a base.
Essentially, heat one side of the rod as fast as possible and grab the top with tweezers and just scrape downwards to pull all the scum and junk off the surface. It works better with thicker rods since you are removing quite a bit of glass. When its absolutely critical to have perfect clear I may peel a few inches of lauscha and use that.

Thanks for your input !
Debbie

[Carolyn M]

I vote for diamond clear, I've used it to encase everything, even a fair amount of silver foil with no cracking.. It is available here http://www.fineartbyrocio.com/index.html

[PaulaD]

The new Lauscha Soft clear is pretty compatible with Moretti but some people are having trouble mixing it with silver glass. That trouble should go away if you anneal higher (like at 980 degrees ) and ramp down slowly (like at 50 degrees an hour). The older version of the Lauscha clear is stiffer. Some people have had trouble casing Moretti colors with it. Our batch seems to be ok and you could always use a Lauscha base to minimize that!!
Paula