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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions. |
2015-05-18, 5:24am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 23, 2005
Location: Up and down I-95
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NS Oregon Gray
I haven't worked with this color before. Does it boil easily? I'm looking for a nice creamy plain meduim gray, something that can take some heat and sculpt well.
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Rebecca
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2015-05-19, 5:11am
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Location: Bennington, VT
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not only does it boil easy, but it also is prone to "phase seperation" or so i've read.
i'm sure plenty of people use it w/o issue, but i've never even been able to use it w/o boiling the piss out of it, even after i learned how to work cads with good success.
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now i've got a Mirage To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
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2015-05-19, 7:55am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 07, 2011
Location: Northern California
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Never tried this one but I do like the boro bar grey. Works easy.
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2015-05-19, 11:47am
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kinda torching....
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Join Date: Mar 26, 2013
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 301
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Portland gray I've heard is good, never used it tho
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Jeremy To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 5 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
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2015-05-19, 12:13pm
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Thanks for the info. I guess I'll go with the boro bars, Elephant is about the perfect color.
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Rebecca
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2015-05-19, 1:06pm
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Borovangelist
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Join Date: Jan 26, 2007
Location: Auburn, MA
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With the borobars, if you can mix a dash of clear into it, it helps with the boiling a little
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-Tom
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2015-05-19, 1:37pm
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Work it like any other crayon color. Oxidizing flame hearing it to start way back in the flame until it starts to glow then slowly working it.
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2015-05-19, 1:47pm
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Join Date: Jun 23, 2005
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Borobars are the only crayon colors I've never had a problem with. Aaaand I've probably just jinxed myself.
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Rebecca
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2015-05-19, 8:21pm
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Borovangelist
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Join Date: Jan 26, 2007
Location: Auburn, MA
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Some of them do boil a lot easier than others. But, you can't beat the price, and you can get some neat effects mixing them down. Blush with varying amounts of clear can give you saturated satins, light translucent colors, etc. They're fun, just a little extra effort.
I got a bad batch of lizard green once that wouldn't melt smooth no matter what, but it would scuzz in really neat organic ways.
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-Tom
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2015-05-25, 12:18pm
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Marbles, dude, Marbles
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Join Date: Jan 06, 2007
Location: Coral Springs, Florida
Posts: 653
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Regarding 'boiling':
IF you are using crayon colors to decorate the back of a marble, which you are going to have to heat up really hot to round out - crayon colors are going to boil. Even when I encased the crayons in clear I was never happy with the outcome.
IF you are using crayon colors on a pendant as part of a design, or on a maria to implode,
work the crayon colors this way: turn on the propane. turn on the oxy Really Slow. when the flame is still mostly Propane put the crayon color in. let it warm up. it probably won't do much of anything (not enough heat) so turn the oxy up A LITTLE. keep doing this every 15-20 seconds until you hit the lowest temperature at which you can begin working the crayon color.
When imploding the crayons sometimes I heat the spot where I'm laying down my line or dot 'til it gets real soft, and push (VERY lightly) the line or dot into the maria. My logic here is that to implode it I'm going to be blasting the maria in a huge flame and I don't want to burn the line or dot I just put down, so let me get it about half way into the maria (so a line that you put down is 2mm thick - you want to sink it into the maria about 1mm)
Now go play.
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A marble a day keeps the 'willies' away.
Gerald Kappel
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