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2012-06-22, 1:11pm
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BabblingBeads
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Join Date: Jun 24, 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 232
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Thanks Amber for this tutorial. That was very giving of you. I can't wait to try it. I do have one question.
I don't own any Lausha except for clear. I am looking for these two colors and can't find them. Do they have a code number or can you recommend where I can purchase these colors? I would like to purchase some other glass too so would like to find a place that has both Lausha and Eff. Etc.
Thanks Bunches! You're the bestest!!
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Jill
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2012-06-22, 1:33pm
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Etch Fiend Organic Junky
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Join Date: Mar 31, 2006
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Jill, try glassdaddy.com. Frank is wonderful and it's all Lauscha there.
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2012-06-22, 1:55pm
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BabblingBeads
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Join Date: Jun 24, 2008
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Thanks Amber. Will try them.
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Jill
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2012-06-23, 2:56am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 03, 2008
Location: Denmark
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Thank you very much for the feedback, Amber. I will try a thinner stringer of the steel blue. Thank you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by *Naos*
Hmmm, it looks like the steel blue stringer may have been applied thicker than the silvered ivory?
The steel blue should be a thin strip over a thicker stripe of SIS. Apply the full width of the 2mm sis stringer.
If you look at the right side of your bead, the process is starting.
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Lone Ringskaer, Aarhus, Denmark
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2012-06-23, 3:19am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 07, 2012
Location: Oz
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Thanks so much for this tut Amber, and the glassdaddy link. Will post pics of mine once the glass has made it's transatlantic journey!
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2012-06-23, 4:32am
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Authentic WI Cheesehead
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Join Date: Sep 27, 2005
Location: Grefrath, Germany (30 minutes from Dusseldorf)
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Steel Blue and Olive Numbers
Hi Naos:
First, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and this wonderful free tutorial. Want to give it a try.
I am not at all familiar with Lauscha. Do you know the color numbers for the Steel Blue and Olive? Sometimes here (Germany) they are called something different and would like to make sure I look for the right thing.
Thanks!
(Sorry if this question has been asked and I didn't see a reply)
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Gail
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2012-06-23, 9:15am
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Glass-aholic
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2007
Location: CT, tolland CT
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Thanks Amber
I tried this yesterday, haven't been back to peek in the kiln yet
I started off with a donut bead and then laid the SIS and a thin line of lauscha steel blue, and melted it all in. neat, but not this, so I started working hotter, again neat but not this. I did it about 10 more times with varying amounts of blue stringer, even adding more, because it looked swallowed by the ivory, nothing close to this.
Then I started working cooler in the minor torch turning it WAY down. I also made sure that I was laying down a stringer of color BEFORE burnishing and burning in the silver on the surface. Then I switched to a light purple transparent color cuz my mind was wondering based on the effects I was/was not getting. I got the ivory effect easily in the low flame. I also notices that a wide band of transparent covered and kept the cool effect underneath without being swallowed, that looks like ambers pictures, but still no cool edges like this if you lay down a stripe you get a stripe... Ill be going back to the drawing board with that, because it was so cool...
I am wondering how big these beads are Amber, (I am guessing at biggest 7-10mm about a 4-5mm base donut bead) and if you laid he stringer on the SIS before or after burnishing it in. I know you do not melt it, but is your SIS still silver on top, or has it burned into brown yet? I think I am using more stringer than I should. I also think after re-reading it that I am not getting this hot enough, although I did initially try basically a lighter gravity swirl on this to shape, I got nothing but swallowed stringer.... I did get the great SIS effect, and the blue was not becoming translucent no matter how I stretched it (i had one i dropped a glob of glass entirely off! opps)
Very fun!!! And an interesting journey of possibilities I can see are ahead of me. Good tutorials help to create a single bead. A great tutorial opens up the possibilities to many other styles and ranges possible within the technique. Great Job!
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Minor 10lpm Oxy-Con + HH on Propylene . . . . . .
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2012-06-23, 10:04am
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Etch Fiend Organic Junky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gail Kops
Hi Naos:
First, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and this wonderful free tutorial. Want to give it a try.
I am not at all familiar with Lauscha. Do you know the color numbers for the Steel Blue and Olive? Sometimes here (Germany) they are called something different and would like to make sure I look for the right thing.
Thanks!
(Sorry if this question has been asked and I didn't see a reply)
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I'm sorry. I don't know the numbers. I just order from GlassDaddy.com. :/
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Naos Glass and Jewelry Supply - ~*~ Custom Orders Happily Accepted~*~
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2012-06-23, 10:16am
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Etch Fiend Organic Junky
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I am thinking the problems with the Ivory swallowing the Lauscha may be the Ivory itself! If I use curdled ivory, it doesn't spread as much. I have so many different types of Ivory from smooth rods to rough rods...the smooth rods seem to work best but I've also had good results with the rough.
The base I make is about a 6-7mm bead before I add the stripe of SIS, which is not burnt down, silver pretty much intact... I keep it in the edge of the flame only when applying. Same for the Steel Blue or Olive stringer. Edge of flame. Sticking out of the design, not flush, not marvered to the bead before melting.
Here's about what it should look like before the melting down process begins...the proportions aren't to scale in this diagram but you get the idea ... Final size of mine are usually 9mm x 14mm
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2012-06-23, 12:23pm
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Senior Member
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Well there's a thought! I'll try a different ivory next time.
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2012-06-23, 7:12pm
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Glass-aholic
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I tried all my shorts of different ivory's for the base but the stringer was comercial pulled, and could have been either. I will try again thank amber for being so ontop of this thread
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Minor 10lpm Oxy-Con + HH on Propylene . . . . . .
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2012-06-23, 8:25pm
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To Bead Or Not To Bead
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Join Date: Jun 15, 2005
Location: Livonia, Michigan
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I've admired those beads for quite sometime. Thanks for sharing your technique. I'm going to give it a try!
Patsy
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2012-06-24, 8:00am
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MaximumAwesomeIdeaCount!
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Join Date: Aug 15, 2007
Location: Boulder, Colorado
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Well, here are my first results, and I must say I am very pleased!! I went a bit off script and used some Striking Color just to see what it would do. Etching definitely takes them over the top!!
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Joy
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2012-06-24, 12:05pm
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Happiness is....
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Join Date: Nov 21, 2005
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oh, those are nice looking.
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A Crickett and 2 5lp oxycons
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2012-06-24, 12:19pm
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Etch Fiend Organic Junky
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Yay Joy - scales, too! I can tell you cook the beejeebus out of your glass! LOL
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2012-06-24, 12:42pm
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MaximumAwesomeIdeaCount!
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Cookin' the beejeebus outta glass is what I do best, and the key to getting good results with your technique, Amber. I know mine aren't perfect but I am pleased with my initial beads. Thanks for sharing!
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Joy
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2012-06-24, 12:49pm
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Etch Fiend Organic Junky
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I love it! You get that nice crackle I can't really get on HotHead. Gorgeous aged look!
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2012-06-26, 6:42am
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Loving learning
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Join Date: Oct 11, 2010
Location: Florida
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I don't have any Lausha glass yet, but wanted to try this anyway. I used CG stringer on top of my SIS.
I don't have the look yet, but it was fun & I'll try again. I didn't get the silver balls, but I thought I saw silver gleaming when I was cooking. Did I cook it all out?
Also, I was really tired & didn't bother to round the bead up again after cooking it, sorry.
PS. Do you have any ideas on why I got all the black webbing through the ivory? Is that from the CG?
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2012-06-26, 6:43am
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GlassDocNC
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Nice patterning!
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2012-06-26, 6:44am
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~ a.k.a. Sharlee22 ~
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Join Date: Aug 27, 2005
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Tried with Lauscha Red... My stringer was a bit too thick but I am still happy with the result!
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2012-06-26, 8:37am
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"Sinners have soul too"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElizabethCreations
Tried with Lauscha Red... My stringer was a bit too thick but I am still happy with the result!
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These are great! Transparent or opaque red, I think I have both.
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Donna
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2012-06-26, 10:55am
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Senior Member
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Wow. really nice varations! I wonder about Buckhorn with Silver? Or the Odd lots that Grace and I bought a few years ago. Will have to test them soon!
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Still North America's Largest Lauscha Dealer!
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2012-06-26, 1:31pm
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Etch Fiend Organic Junky
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LIZ! Yes, that's it! WOW had no idea you could use Lauscha Red - that's so cool! Got any tips for the others who are having problems? I've run out of options.
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2012-06-26, 1:33pm
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Loving learning
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It just dawned on me that I was hurrying, and probably worked close in and got my ivory really really hot quickly.
Next time I'll try to remember to slow down.
Oh, and I'll try some different colors. I was thinking maybe sedona or EDP or maybe pea green... or ...
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2012-06-26, 1:53pm
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~ a.k.a. Sharlee22 ~
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I used opaque Lauscha Red... I tried with purple and it worked as well.. but sincerely, I need to have a thinner stringer!
I am not sure what to say to others as it worked pretty quickly for me. First one were not great (steel blue) but after that, it worked using your technique.
I am on a oxycon (5 lpm) and a Bobcat
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2012-06-26, 2:15pm
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Senior Member
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Thank you Amber for writting this! I so admire your organic beads! I don't have any lauscha colors so I have been using effetre or moretti colors but I don't get the seperations that you do! Still playing tho! I do have one question tho - do I get the stringer hot first then apply the silver leaf? or just wrap it around the stringer then warm lightly? or melt all the way in? Sorry if I seem dense - sometimes it takes a while for me to understand things LOL! OK never mind the questions - I reread some of the posts! DUH LOL Going back to square one and try again!
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2012-06-26, 3:17pm
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Etch Fiend Organic Junky
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Lynie, great question! Prewarm the stringer just a tad and heat the tip to a little glow, then roll over the leaf. That should help it adhese. Once it's on, marver it gently against the stringer then make a pass or two back through the flame. That keeps the silver nice and tight on the stringer.
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2012-06-26, 3:36pm
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AAhhhh Cool! Thank you Amber!
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2012-06-26, 8:42pm
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Glass-aholic
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Elizabeth those look great!!
I got results very similar to lynieG
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Minor 10lpm Oxy-Con + HH on Propylene . . . . . .
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2012-06-27, 9:05am
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Senior Member
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Amber, this is a great tutorial! Thank you very much for putting it out there. I spent some time experimenting with your dragonscale tut back when I started, too.
Liz: they look fab with the red
(For people after colour numbers, the factory number for dark teal (steel blue) is SNO 602 and for olive is SNO 603).
I wanna have a go with some other colours too
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