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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2010-11-18, 11:37am
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Default Locking Jump Rings

WHAT' S UP WITH THEM? I have tried to use small thin ones and big thick ones and the instructions sound so straight forward, but I can't get them to click and lock. Also they get marks on them from the pliers - not pretty. Anybody know some tricks?

THANKS!
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  #2  
Old 2010-11-18, 3:08pm
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I'd say for starters on the "marks", wrap a bunch of masking tape around your pliers ends which will act as a cushion and that should help with THAT problem.

On the first question, about getting them to "click" and lock, I've not used these before so I'm afraid I can't help there...sorry!

Hopefully someone else will jump in and assist 'ya!
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Old 2010-11-18, 3:13pm
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Vicki, can you show us a photo or a link to the type of jump rings you're talking about? That might help us troubleshoot!


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  #4  
Old 2010-11-18, 3:58pm
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Thanks for the masking tape tip, DeAnne. I was wondering what might work to keep the pliers from scratching the silver.

Here's a link to the rings on Artbeads:
http://www.artbeads.com/ss-ljr14-10.html
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  #5  
Old 2010-11-18, 6:52pm
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I'm intrigued. Anyone else using them? Do they really work?
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  #6  
Old 2010-11-18, 7:22pm
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They really work - when you get them closed correctly. I thought the Artbeads ones were like Via Murano Snappeez: http://www.viamurano.com/
They are a vendor at BABE (Bay Area Bead EXtravaganza), and, while I've gotten some of the smaller ones of theirs to work, I thought I'd try these bigger ones from Artbeads. I thought since they are so big, it would be easier to keep the cut ends in alignment. All I'm doing is putting one bead on a T-pin looped on, so I'm not opening the ring - hardly at all, and the ends appear to line up when I move them back and forth, but still no click and lock. The instructions are so simple - acckkkk what am I missing?
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  #7  
Old 2010-11-18, 8:07pm
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Well - after I posted the link to Via Murano, I watched their video demo again and tried it on the ring I really messed up on this afternoon and got it to work. There must be some springy mechanism inside that requires that you go "north, south, north" and then push closed to get the thing to lock - still not as easy as it should be, I think. probably I'd be better off if I knew what I was attempting to lineup.......
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  #8  
Old 2010-11-18, 11:01pm
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I use the Snapeez all the time, and they really do "lock" and are wonderful! I do it like Vicki explained - you crank it open, the crank it back past closed and then back to where the ends meet and you can actually hear them "click" into place. Cool idea - wish I'd come up with them.
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  #9  
Old 2010-11-19, 7:33am
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Thanks Sassy,
I must just need some practice. I'm going to order some more from them today as they are having free shipping. It's such a good idea. Do you pad your pliers like Deanne suggested or do you have another suggestion?
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  #10  
Old 2010-11-19, 8:02am
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there is a rubbery dip that they sell at trade shows that you can dip your pliers in so they
don't mar the silver/gold. It works well, but goes bad quickly after it is opened.
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  #11  
Old 2010-11-19, 8:08am
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Aha Mary - never heard of a dip. Always afraid to mar my pliers, but then they sratch the metal as they are - wish there were some little plastic sleevey type things to slip on....
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Old 2010-11-19, 8:30am
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Some hardware stores also sell the dip. You could also try some small tubing and sort of slide that on, just wander around the hardware store a little and look at the plastic tubing they have.
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  #13  
Old 2010-11-19, 9:46am
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I can't imagine 14g wire would pull apart easily, locking or not locking.
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  #14  
Old 2010-11-19, 10:34am
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The "dip" stuff, by the way, is also available at Home Depot in the "Tool Corral" area (or, if you can find one, ask a friendly "Customer Service" rep! )

I didn't recommend it unless you intend to keep the coating on the tool indefinitely; the tape is easily removed if you want them to be "dual purpose".
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  #15  
Old 2010-12-12, 3:54pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mary K View Post
there is a rubbery dip that they sell at trade shows that you can dip your pliers in so they
don't mar the silver/gold. It works well, but goes bad quickly after it is opened.
If you're talking about 'Magic Tool' (I think that's what it's called, too lazy to go out the sheddio and look) after you use it wipe the threads on the jar really well to clean them, put the lid on tightly, then store it upside down. Stored in this way no air can get in and it never dries out.
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Old 2010-12-12, 4:23pm
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Instead of using masking tape that will gum up your tools try blue painters tape. It cushions better and comes off easily with no gunk left behind. I would never dip my good tools with a plastic coating, they are too expensive to replace.
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Old 2010-12-12, 4:46pm
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I use magic tool its a rubber coating. You just dip your tools into that and it coats them so they won't scratch your jewelry. I bought mine at firemountaingems.com This stuff works great! You do want to have a set of tools that you keep dipped! My husband does our silver work so his tools are dipped and mine I don't dip. Niya

Last edited by redbearmountain; 2010-12-12 at 4:49pm.
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  #18  
Old 2010-12-12, 4:53pm
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Thanks folks - guess I need some painters' tape and maybe some tool magic as well - the people at Via Murano recommended that also!
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Old 2010-12-13, 12:21pm
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So... I watched the video on the Via Murano site but I don't understand what it is that locks. Doesn't appear to be any different than a regular jump ring, but it must be? If you have used these, is there something on that cut end that snaps closed, but isn't visible on the video?
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Old 2010-12-13, 1:28pm
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As you move the ends of the jump ring back and forth, closer and closer together, as your get to 'just past' a tight fit the two ends will click as they snap past each other.

The back and forth work hardens the metal so when you decide that the ring is closed it tends to stay closed(unless it is undersized for it's job).

The click is random and only occurs when the two ends get hung up and are lightly forced past each other. If you like the fit before this happens, no problem. The work hardening locks them into place.

Steve
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  #21  
Old 2010-12-13, 1:34pm
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You can get Magic Tool at AC Moore now. I dip all of my chainmail pliers in it. Good stuff!
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Old 2010-12-13, 1:41pm
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Tool magic is good stuff; I use it all the time. And it does not wreck your pliers.
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  #23  
Old 2010-12-14, 7:01am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firebrand Beads View Post
So... I watched the video on the Via Murano site but I don't understand what it is that locks. Doesn't appear to be any different than a regular jump ring, but it must be? If you have used these, is there something on that cut end that snaps closed, but isn't visible on the video?

I've always wondered this about those "locking" jump rings . . . . I mean, to properly close any jump ring, you do exactly what Steve describes until they 'click' to close.
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  #24  
Old 2010-12-14, 10:51am
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http://cableorganizer.com/heat-shrin...hrink-2-1.html

look at that, shrink tubing. that should work for the pliers and i know you can get it at most places that deal with electrical things like Home depot and lowes. Def electric supply companies.

it's like the dip, but not as messy and doesn't go bad when opened
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  #25  
Old 2010-12-14, 2:39pm
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Polish your pliers! Take the sharp edges off but don't make them rounded. I even polish the outside, since I use that sometimes for a burnisher. It hasn't ruined my 'good' pliers, just made them better. Mine are almost mirror finish on the flat sides, they are that polished. Then you don't need tape or goop or whatever. If you don't believe me, then try it on a cheap pair 1st.
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Old 2010-12-15, 3:49pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GinnyHampton View Post
I've always wondered this about those "locking" jump rings . . . . I mean, to properly close any jump ring, you do exactly what Steve describes until they 'click' to close.
Yeah, that's what I was thinking.... thanks everyone!
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  #27  
Old 2011-11-13, 8:41am
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Question Locking jump rings

Hi. I have been wondering about locking jump rings. Isn't the ZambaProŽ 14K/20 Gold-Filled 18 Gauge 6mm Locking Jump Ring just a regular open jump ring that has been hardened with the back and forth movement. I normally do that to my regular jump rings just to get them to click in place. Any ideas?
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  #28  
Old 2011-11-13, 9:37am
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IMHO - after having purchased them - there is NO difference between a supposed "locking" jump ring, and a proper gauge jump ring. Anything which has been properly work-hardened from 16g on down will have the exact same effect. Save your money - or at least - spend it elsewhere. There is no "spring inside" as someone suggested - the 'spring' is obtained from proper work-hardening and correctly closing the jr's. GREAT marketing perhaps, but that's all it is.
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  #29  
Old 2011-11-13, 10:49am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Over the Moon View Post
IMHO - after having purchased them - there is NO difference between a supposed "locking" jump ring, and a proper gauge jump ring. Anything which has been properly work-hardened from 16g on down will have the exact same effect. Save your money - or at least - spend it elsewhere. There is no "spring inside" as someone suggested - the 'spring' is obtained from proper work-hardening and correctly closing the jr's. GREAT marketing perhaps, but that's all it is.
^^^^^ditto what Val and Ginny have said.
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