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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions. |
2007-12-05, 8:18am
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Flamewoman
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Join Date: Jan 12, 2007
Location: California
Posts: 985
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Boro Questions you were afraid to ask!
Here is the thread for all those dumb boro questions you have been afraid to ask! My soft glass skills are pretty good, but boro is well.....different!
Here are some of my questions:
How do you get DAP to display all it's color? Sometime's I get it, sometimes I can't, do not know what I am doing.
How do you "strike"? How long do you cool the bead, how long do you heat it, to glowing red? Do you strike every boro color?
Encasing. Do you melt a big blob and try to get even coverage? How do you put clear on?
Kiln time? I have an arrow springs controler that does 1050 degrees for soaking. should it be hotter?
Anyone out there with answeres or more questions????
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Mary K
GTT Sidewinder & 3 Regalias
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2007-12-05, 8:35am
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ManBearPig
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2005
Location: Roanoke, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mary K
How do you get DAP to display all it's color? Sometime's I get it, sometimes I can't, do not know what I am doing.
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Get it hot with a hot, neutral flame. Keep it hot while working on it. You want it to be almost colorless. Work it and shape it, then let it cool outside the flame 20-30 seconds. Slowly heat it up in the back of the flame until you get the desired color.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mary K
How do you "strike"? How long do you cool the bead, how long do you heat it, to glowing red? Do you strike every boro color?
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See above. No, you don't strike every color. Only a small percentage of them. Colors like Amber/Purple, Triple Passion, etc. need to be struck. Most don't.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mary K
Encasing. Do you melt a big blob and try to get even coverage? How do you put clear on?
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I assume you are talking about beads, right? I just wind on a disc of clear over the bead, and then melt it smooth. The clear will melt and flow faster than the color, so it encases itself pretty much.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mary K
Kiln time? I have an arrow springs controler that does 1050 degrees for soaking. should it be hotter?
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1050 will be fine. Some people kiln strike certain colors at temps between 1075 and 1200. Some people (like me) don't kiln strike, and leave their kiln at 1050 all the time.
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2007-12-05, 11:05am
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Ezzy
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Join Date: Sep 14, 2006
Posts: 2,020
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Well here's a dumb question I brought up regarding soft glass; but, now I'll ask about boro... batch annealing.
When making small things, like pendants, they seem strong enough that you could prepare a bunch of them over time then pop them all in the kiln at one. Would it work or should I just pop stuff into the kiln as I finish it?
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2007-12-05, 11:12am
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ManBearPig
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2005
Location: Roanoke, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PixieFireBeads
Well here's a dumb question I brought up regarding soft glass; but, now I'll ask about boro... batch annealing.
When making small things, like pendants, they seem strong enough that you could prepare a bunch of them over time then pop them all in the kiln at one. Would it work or should I just pop stuff into the kiln as I finish it?
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It works fine. I have done it plenty of times.
The only time you don't want to do something like that is if it has an opal in it. Opals don't like to be reheated for some reason. The glass around them usually cracks when you do.
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2007-12-05, 11:39am
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Flame Dame
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Join Date: Aug 29, 2005
Location: The Lone Star State!
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Okay, here's my question. I just ran into this problem last week.
Why does laying down white (EWS, for instance) directly on the mandrel then encasing it cause the bead to crack?
Leah
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Leah Nelson
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2007-12-05, 12:40pm
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ManBearPig
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2005
Location: Roanoke, VA
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I have never had that problem, honestly. I've made many beads with white as the base and not had that problem. However, I have heard of it happening from time to time. I think it may have something to do with how hot you keep the white while you are working on it. I tend to keep mine really hot the whole time, which seems to work for me.
I believe the problem is that the white is not 100% compatible. When it's touching glass all the way around, it works fine, but when touching the mandrel, there is a difference in expansion and contraction rates that causes the cracks. That is what I was told, so I don't know if it's 100% accurate or not. But, a good way to prevent it is to lay down a little clear, then put the white on top of it.
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2007-12-05, 5:10pm
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Skeptical Optimist
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Join Date: Apr 02, 2006
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Cosmo, you still da man!
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Patrice & Paul, Running a Mirage and Barracuda on a Pro-8.
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2007-12-05, 5:43pm
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Know-it-all Megalomaniac
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Join Date: Oct 22, 2005
Location: Californication
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Cosmo - you are a fountain of knowledge.
May your torch burn brightly and your oxy never run out.
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2007-12-05, 6:32pm
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Lampworker
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Join Date: Jul 06, 2007
Location: Oregon
Posts: 211
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you will also need to strike yellow, extra light yellow, orange and the ruby family at 1050.
i like to strike AP and tripple pasion at 1075-1100 for 1-2 hours. this brings out the purple hue.
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2007-12-05, 11:15pm
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Corgi Cult Member
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Join Date: Jan 10, 2006
Location: Central Illinois
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I understand some colors need to be preworked before they are used in an implossion to avoid small bubbles. How do you know which colors need this extra step?
Do crayon colors always need to be encased before they are used?
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Kathy
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2007-12-05, 11:38pm
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Know-it-all Megalomaniac
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Join Date: Oct 22, 2005
Location: Californication
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artwhim
Do crayon colors always need to be encased before they are used?
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OH! OH! (she says raising hand) I can take this one.
No - you don't need to encase crayon colors, but you DO need to
work them cooler (higher up in the flame) so they don't bubble.
What I found is, I work the crayons in a propane rich flame, which is
cooler than an oxy flame. However - this doesn't work well if you're
using another glass with the crayon colors (specifically glass that reacts
to a propane flame). Clear as mud?
On a sidenote - I've been playing with some of the new Glass Alchemy
crayon-like colors, and many of these (my fave is pumpkin from their glasstique line) don't bubble or scorch. LOVE it!
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2007-12-06, 12:32pm
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ManBearPig
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2005
Location: Roanoke, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artwhim
I understand some colors need to be preworked before they are used in an implossion to avoid small bubbles. How do you know which colors need this extra step?
Do crayon colors always need to be encased before they are used?
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I've never preworked any colors before using them. If you are getting bubbles, you are getting the glass too hot. Colors that tend to bubble the most for me are colors like Hyacinth, Skyline, and other crayon blues.
Crayon colors don't need to be encased. It's not a bad idea to encase them, but they don't need to be. You just have to work them slower.
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2007-12-06, 1:47pm
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Ezzy
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Join Date: Sep 14, 2006
Posts: 2,020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cosmo
It works fine. I have done it plenty of times.
The only time you don't want to do something like that is if it has an opal in it. Opals don't like to be reheated for some reason. The glass around them usually cracks when you do.
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Woohooooo, maybe I really can save some electricity! Thanks Cosmo.
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2007-12-06, 1:51pm
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Ezzy
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Join Date: Sep 14, 2006
Posts: 2,020
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You know, I want to really take the time and thank all of you guys for the wealth of information you are sharing. I think the Boro Room is the rockin'est out of anywhere on LE and I'm just sorry I didn't find you all earlier.
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When you wish upon a falling star, your dreams can come true. Unless it's really a meteorite hurtling to the Earth which will destroy all life. Then you're pretty much hosed no matter what you wish for. Unless it's death by meteor.
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2007-12-06, 1:53pm
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Ezzy
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Join Date: Sep 14, 2006
Posts: 2,020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artwhim
I understand some colors need to be preworked before they are used in an implossion to avoid small bubbles. How do you know which colors need this extra step?
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I had something that happened on an implosion that sounds a lot like this. I was using frit and I just went to look for it to figure out which frit it is and of course I can't find it.
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When you wish upon a falling star, your dreams can come true. Unless it's really a meteorite hurtling to the Earth which will destroy all life. Then you're pretty much hosed no matter what you wish for. Unless it's death by meteor.
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2007-12-06, 3:04pm
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 20, 2007
Posts: 39
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Ok, I'm about to take the plunge... new torch, glass, frit, everything I need to start playing with boro... now is there anything obviously different to soft glass I need to know before I sit down and have a go?
thanks!
ShelleyLee
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2007-12-06, 3:28pm
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Pyromaniac
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Join Date: Aug 12, 2006
Location: Memphis, TN
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Heat it closer to the torch head, generally, and don't wave it in and out of the flame like you do soft glass. When you have the shape you want, cool until there is NO glow (I check under the work table) and if it's a striking color, bring it back into the top of the flame and turn to strike -- you will see the color change. Some people kiln strike, but I like to see what I am getting before it goes in the kiln.
Clear frit can do wonders.
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Lana
Sexy Barracuda and Mirage
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2007-12-06, 6:07pm
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Flamewoman
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Join Date: Jan 12, 2007
Location: California
Posts: 985
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Oh yes Lana is right shellyLee that you don't need to wave it in and out of the flame, and that's because Boro won't BLOW UP like soft glass does!!! That's one of the things I love about it. You can just stick it into the flame, without fear. After working boro for a while I sometimes forget when working with soft glass, but I am always reminded quickly.LOL. You will love boro, most beautiful of glass.
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Mary K
GTT Sidewinder & 3 Regalias
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2007-12-07, 6:31am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 10, 2005
Location: RI
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Ok, stupid question here...related to boro in that some are made of it...what is MIB? I know what they are, what do the letters stand for? See, told you it was a stupid question
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Kim V
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2007-12-07, 3:32pm
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 20, 2007
Posts: 39
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Thanks everyone... I know it's going to be a steep learling curve!
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2007-12-08, 3:17pm
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ManBearPig
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2005
Location: Roanoke, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kim V
Ok, stupid question here...related to boro in that some are made of it...what is MIB? I know what they are, what do the letters stand for? See, told you it was a stupid question
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Good question. I've wondered that myself for quite a while...
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2007-12-08, 5:49pm
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Senior Member
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Thanks, Cosmos, I was really beginning to feel foolish for even asking
Ok, here's my suggestions (and know that I've been up waayyy too long today )....
Men in Black
M I Bitchy (that was DH's suggestion...guess the D isn't standing for Darling right now )
Marble in Boro?
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Kim V
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2007-12-08, 7:22pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 27, 2005
Location: Wellington, CO
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sooooo...what are MIBs?
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2007-12-08, 8:56pm
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Corgi Cult Member
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Thanks Karen and Cosmo!
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Kathy
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2007-12-09, 9:12am
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ManBearPig
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2005
Location: Roanoke, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DawnT
sooooo...what are MIBs?
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Seriousll, though, MIB = marble. But I don't know where "MIB" came from.
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2007-12-09, 3:00pm
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Pyromaniac
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Join Date: Aug 12, 2006
Location: Memphis, TN
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marble implosion something or other?
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Lana
Sexy Barracuda and Mirage
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2007-12-09, 3:11pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 20, 2006
Location: Texas
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Here's a link to a marble ( the game ) website:
http://library.thinkquest.org/5236/M...0Glossary.html
Mib: Long,long,long ago,mib meant a clay marble. Nowadays mib means a target in any marble game.
Mibster: A mibster is a person who plays marbles.
Gundi
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2007-12-11, 3:26am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 11, 2005
Location: California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PixieFireBeads
Well here's a dumb question I brought up regarding soft glass; but, now I'll ask about boro... batch annealing.
When making small things, like pendants, they seem strong enough that you could prepare a bunch of them over time then pop them all in the kiln at one. Would it work or should I just pop stuff into the kiln as I finish it?
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I find that it affects the color sometimes. Pinks are fussy. I like to put them directly into a hot kiln.
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2007-12-11, 3:32am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 10, 2005
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Gundi,
Thank you sooo much!!! The term has taunted me for a long time.
Kim V
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gundula
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Kim V
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2007-12-11, 3:32am
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeahBeads
Okay, here's my question. I just ran into this problem last week.
Why does laying down white (EWS, for instance) directly on the mandrel then encasing it cause the bead to crack?
Leah
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In Laymens terms (Because I don't know the Technical terms)
Because the mandrel acts as a heat sink causing the inside to cool differently than the outside. The glass cools quicker near the mandrel.
The COE is a little off meaning that it might be fine if you cooled it slower (depending on the color) or its usually easier to lay a small bead of color down first.
Different colors cool in different ways. Some boro colors cool slower/faster causing issues while cooling with other colors.
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