Smoothing edges on lampwork beads

[sluglifeglass]

Evening,

I'm looking for some info on smoothing holes on lampwork beads. I've been making them for about 3 months now, and I've got a container full of beads that have sharp edges. Is there a way to smooth them, or do I find another use for them?

I'm using soft glass, if that matters.

[jeepinwelch]

You might be able to dremel them with a diamond bit. It will leave them with a rough surface though. There really isn't a way to go back and correct them in the flame.

[artsyuno]

Your best bet is to figure out why they're coming out pointy. Make sure you're doing most of your melting outside the flame and holding the mandrel level. Keep your mandrel out of the flame - you want just under half of the bead in the flame when you're shaping it (while spinning slowly and evenly).

[silverlilly1]

if you've made the bead pointy, but are still shaping, add more glass. after that, hold the mandrel level as you turn it so you won't make the ends pointy again.

can't see any way to fix finished beads easily though.

[Sue in Maine]

As you improve with the dreaded ppp (practice, practice, practice) you will have less and less sharp edges. A dremel drill can grind the sharp edges off but you should keep those beads for yourself. Don't sell them as they're not first quality and in time, you will NOT want to live with knowing people have them.

Having said that, I want you to know that I have very shaky hands and, thanks to Jim Smirchich, have improved my mandrel turning techniques. I'm attaching a thread to show you the ground graphite marver and how I use it. IGNORE the fact that this was my public tutorial on how to make matching beads. What I'd direct you to is the graphite marver.

http://lampworketc.com/forums/showth...int+smootprint

Good luck!

Sue

[sluglifeglass]

Thanks, Sue!

I drilled a hole in my marver a few days ago, that has been very helpful. I have been shaping my beads in the flame - I'll focus my attention on where the mandrel is in comparison to the flame. I use a hot head and it's not easy to control the flame on those - it seems to be either full force or just barely on.

[Alaska]

If you do not have a copy then would suggest taking a look at "Passing the Flame" for some process suggestions. Or visit You Tube for action videos on making beads.

[Sue in Maine]

Originally Posted by sluglifeglass

Thanks, Sue!

I drilled a hole in my marver a few days ago, that has been very helpful. I have been shaping my beads in the flame - I'll focus my attention on where the mandrel is in comparison to the flame. I use a hot head and it's not easy to control the flame on those - it seems to be either full force or just barely on.

The actual shaping is done outside of the flames, underneath the flames. Glass will round itself out but needs to do that as it cools. I work way too hot, a flaw that I know about in myself. If you're working too hot (bead is too molten), work a bit further out in the flame and when you think the bead is ready, drop your mandrel under the flame and continue rotating your mandrel. You can actually watch your bead round out. When turning your mandrel, if you're using choppy rotations- there is that hesitant quick split second where you reposition your hand to continue the rotation, be aware that the glass is still moving. If your glass is too molten, you're going to get a sag.

Seems like your problem is the footprint because you're getting sharp ends. I'm not a footprint fan (Because I suck at getting good ones!) but want to tell you that glass moves TOWARDS the heat. If you have a molten center, the glass on the ends will pull towards that center. Still, a too hot bead issue- something I know well!

The techniques are similar for "donut" beads and "round" beads but it's a matter of amount of glass, footprint width and turning/timing when shaping your bead.

Passing the Flame is a great book. Of all that I own, this is the ONE book I do NOT loan out. Seriously worth the money, imho.

Sue

[houptdavid]

Maybe this will help with what Sue wrote

top is to wide a "footprint" for the amount of glass


If your beads are "teardrop" it's from not holding the mandrel level

[bshelle]

Sue said it - point he heat where you want the glass to go.

[Elizabeth Beads]

if you have access to a lap wheel, you might be able to grind and polish the ends.

[cgbeads]

Some tips.
1) Make your footprint shorter than what you need, it will grow on it's own if it needs to.
2) Instead of adding glass down the center, add them towards the edges, or towards the holes. Glass gathers to itself and will gravitate towards the middle, so this will help keep the ends plumper.
3) Gravity is your friend. Heat one half and gravity melt the glass towards the sharp ends, melting the glass over it, like in David's drawings.
-Donna

[sluglifeglass]

Thanks guys! I'm excited to try some new stuff tomorrow.