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2009-09-02, 8:02pm
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Glass Junkie
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Join Date: Apr 29, 2008
Location: By Yosimite,CA
Posts: 19
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Pyrex rod made in 1992
I just purchased some Pyrex 10mil rod that was made in 1992. I was wondering if this was when Pyrex was still good? Does this year have any quirks or characteristics that newer glass glass does not have? What would be a good price for this in case I want to buy the 4 mil they have? Don't need the 4 mil, but if the price is right...(3/4 case) I'll jump on it. I'm new to boro so...Thanks for any input you might have.
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2009-09-03, 7:03am
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ManBearPig
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2005
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 8,540
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Why is the new stuff not good any more? I use a lot of it, and I like it.
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2009-09-03, 1:19pm
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Glass Junkie
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Join Date: Apr 29, 2008
Location: By Yosimite,CA
Posts: 19
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The reason I was asking is because I have read in different threads (can't find them now) a lot of people don't like it anymore. It seems it has had problems in the recent years, just not sure what they are or why most glass distributors don't carry any more.
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2009-09-03, 5:34pm
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ManBearPig
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2005
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 8,540
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I have heard people say they don't like it, but never heard anyone actually give a reason.
You can get all the Pyrex you want at www.waleapparatus.com
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2009-09-03, 5:44pm
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Pyromaniac
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Join Date: Aug 12, 2006
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 1,868
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I think it is Pyrex dishware that has changed not the rods -- they are still the same borosilicate as far as I know. . . .
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news0.../08/pyrex.html
From the Encyclopedia:
"Pyrex is a brand name for heat-resistant glass introduced by Corning Glass Works in 1915.
Pyrex was originally borosilicate glass. Though borosilicates had been produced before, the name Pyrex is widely used as a genericised trademark for the material. Corning spun off its kitchenware division in 1998 as World Kitchen, Inc. However, Corning retained the Pyrex brand name, licensing it to World Kitchen and other companies that produce Pyrex-branded cookware.
Details of Pyrex production in England can be found in The Little Book of Collectable British Pyrex by Susan Hibberd.
Pyrex kitchen products produced by World Kitchen are no longer made from borosilicate glass, but from soda-lime glass. Their packaging indicates that they must never be used over a flame, on stove tops, under a broiler, or in a toaster oven.
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Lana
Sexy Barracuda and Mirage
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2009-09-03, 6:17pm
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I'm too sexy for my shirt
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Join Date: Mar 30, 2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,164
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I used some old Pyrex from around the same date (1990) and had no problems. Had to clean some spots in the flame, but other than that, no problems.
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Jerri
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#K58
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2009-09-04, 11:43am
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Glass Junkie
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Join Date: Apr 29, 2008
Location: By Yosimite,CA
Posts: 19
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Melted some last night!! Wow, I love the flow and clarity. Think I will get the 4mil also. It's about 3/4 of a case...should last for many years. Thanks for all the input. NOW if I can only learn to work boro dicro. The scrap sheets I got are around 1/4" thick, and all I can do is flake it off into the air, no matter what flame I use. Going to try and anneal it first to see if that helps.
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2009-09-04, 12:44pm
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ManBearPig
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2005
Location: Roanoke, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papajoe
Melted some last night!! Wow, I love the flow and clarity. Think I will get the 4mil also. It's about 3/4 of a case...should last for many years. Thanks for all the input. NOW if I can only learn to work boro dicro. The scrap sheets I got are around 1/4" thick, and all I can do is flake it off into the air, no matter what flame I use. Going to try and anneal it first to see if that helps.
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Annealing doesn't make much difference. Use as much oxygen as you can. I run my regulator at 60 psi and open the outer oxygen on my CC. Never heat the coated side. It will work a lot slower, but that's fine. That's what you want. Once you have it covered, you can work it hotter.
Also, the scraps are usually pretty cheap dichro. Get yourself a couple pieces of CBS or DA dichro and you'll be much happier. DA Grass Green is a very durable color of dichroic. I would start with that color.
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2009-09-04, 1:39pm
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Glass Junkie
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Join Date: Apr 29, 2008
Location: By Yosimite,CA
Posts: 19
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Thanks a lot for the info. I have 2 m-15's piped into a 11 gallon holding tank and use a mini cc. Only able to get 15lb of pressure. with 12 to 14 flow. I tried the oxy rich flame, but would not melt the rod for seaming the sandwich. Or maybe I was not patient enough. Even trying to heat the back of the single 2x2 glass sheet and it just crinkled the dicro and it floated off. Also according to the packaging it is CBS.
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2009-09-04, 1:40pm
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ManBearPig
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2005
Location: Roanoke, VA
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Yeah. That's one of the main drawbacks with concentrators. And, even if you could get that much pressure, the purity would suffer greatly.
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2009-09-04, 2:07pm
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Glass Junkie
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Join Date: Apr 29, 2008
Location: By Yosimite,CA
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I have a friend that has an inline vacuum/compressor he is going to sell me. It's oil less so I'm going to see how long it will take to fill an oxy k-bottle from my holding tank. It will compress to about 200lbs or more. I'm hoping it will only take 6 or so hours to fill. If it works I will be able to run a bigger torch and not have to buy oxygen.
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2009-09-04, 5:12pm
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ManBearPig
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Join Date: Jun 28, 2005
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200 lbs isn't much. The tanks are at like 3000 lbs when they're full.
It may work though. I'm not 100% sure how all that stuff works.
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