quality of mandrels?

[sleekbeads]

Ya know.. I'm so upset I could scream.
I just upgraded from my hothead to a mini cc (I've used one many times before at a studio so it is familiar to me).

However, tonight I made the most kick ass whomping cone shaped bead I've ever made. Didn't even realize the demise until I was trying to take the bead of the mandrel. Yep, warped and melted the mandrel right at the tip of the bead. So... me, thinking I'm going to be smart and take it off the mandrel the other way... then realized there was actually a crack in the glass near where the mandrel warped.

I don't like this! lol
Seriously, you know the feeling, when you make this awesome bead and suddenly is it shit?

Are there actually differet quality of mandrels I can purchase?
It would be worth the money if I can keep this from happening.

I've also learned not to place it directly in the flame.
I'm sure that's what went wrong for me.

What kind of mandrels do you use and where are you getting them?

Thanks.
Joanna

[Emily]

Welding rod. Go to a welding shop and ask for TIG (say "tig," not T.I.G.) welding rod, 316L or 308L. Both are acceptable, but 316 is for higher temperatures. The rods are a meter long, so use bolt cutters to cut them to mandrel length. Cutting them leaves a little bur on the tip, which you'll want to smooth down. A bench grinder works well, but if you don't have one, you can use a file or even rub them on the sidewalk.

[sleekbeads]

THANKS, that's just the information I was looking for!
You rock!

Joanna

[somberbear]

also i like using stainless drill rod. most hobby/rc shops carry them at about the right length for mandrels. they are stiffer then welding rod and dont bend as easy. i went crazy trying to get a bead off a bent mandrel once.

[dogmaw]

Sucks about your bead. I hate it when that happens. I use the 316L welding rods too.

[baylie]

Tempering the 308 Or 316L will make them a lot stiffer.

[Emily]

OK -- how do you temper them?

[Emily]

Joanna -- just to be clear -- the welding rods are probably the same quality as whatever mandrels you bought from your glass supplier. It's just cheaper to buy the rods and cut the mandrels yourself.

Aura Lens sells mandrels that they claim are "almost indestructable" -- made from some special alloy or whatever. I've never tried them, so can't say whether they're really any different.

I could swear I've seen posts from people saying they use titanium bicycle spokes as mandrels. I don't know what the advantage is, whether they're sturdier or make the beads come off easier or something, or whether the people who use them just had a bunch of bicycles handy (hmmm, so THAT'S why you have to lock your front and rear wheels together when you park your bike in the city . . .)

[artwhim]

Joanna, when I first upgraded I destroyed a mandrel or two. I think my problem was two fold: more heat than I was used to (had to learn to not direct it at the mandrel so much) and suddenly I could make much larger beads so I would happily be shaping the bead not realizing I was bending the mandrel (the 1/16" were a real problem). Eventually both of these I worked through - although the 1/16s" still beg for mercy sometimes. Once you have spent more time on it, the problem will probably correct itself.

So glad to hear you got your system up and running. Fun, isn't it!!! Bet you'll make some fantastic beads with it!
Kathy

[baylie]

Originally Posted by Emily

OK -- how do you temper them?

Get em glowing hot then dunk them in water.

[alexm]

I work with TIG rods too.

A tip for working with an oxy-propane torch: let the bead "ride" the top of the flame. The flame is much hotter than the HH flame, so putting it in the middle of the flame will get the glass too hot and will warp or even cut through mandrels.