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| Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2012-06-04, 4:09pm
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Join Date: May 23, 2007
Location: South Florida
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Mandrel Cracks
Hey All:
I have used the R-104 Lilac now for a while both encased and unencased, the last few beads though made from a rod from an order I got a month ago (first rod used from that batch) and each one has a mandrel line crack.. I know that can be a sign of incompat issues but I am hoping I am wrong  . If anyone can shed some light on this color that would be great- the rods I was using before were quite thin and came from Flamekissedglass (LOVE Reenie BTW) these came direct from OCR.
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Michelle
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2012-06-04, 7:06pm
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Pretty sure that means improper cooling. You kept it out too long after working, peeked too soon, etc.
I thought incompatibility cracks were more random and may only go through one layer. I've had some of those, but a lot more cooling issues in the winter when I was using a fiber blanket (those all cracked along the bead hole).
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2012-06-05, 5:50am
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Join Date: May 23, 2007
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Thank you so much Melissa. Normally the incompat cracks do spider web however there are some colors that simply do not like to be encased and the issue shows up as a mandrel line crack- the bead was worked properly and no peeking (hehehehe normally I would agree that is the issue lol) A couple of colors that do this are CIM Krytonite and Lauscha Hawaiian Purple. I was thinking there may be a difference between batches or between rod thicknesses?????
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Michelle
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2012-06-05, 6:09am
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Glass-aholic
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Join Date: Mar 21, 2007
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Are you giving the bead enough glass around the mandrel? They say at least as much glass as the thickness of the mandrel on all sides. I'm sure you probably know this. Maybe you are making squished beads that are cracking? Also try a different base color and encase it with the purple. Humm. I had a batch of raku like this once. I could not encase it, (96 raku w/96 clear) And half the unencased beads cracked in half on me. I ended up encasing a base color and it usually worked out for me. But what a pain. Never had any issue with another batch.
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2012-06-05, 6:16am
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SCIENCE Teacher!
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Join Date: Jul 19, 2005
Location: Wylie, TX
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FYI - the R104 comes in both COEs, 96 and 104. I wonder if you accidentally got some of the wrong COE. OCR may be able to verify for you.
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2012-06-05, 2:39pm
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I've had this happen with a couple of different Reichenbach 104 colors and have come to the conclusion that it needs a thorough bath of insurance heat before you put it in the kiln. I don't adjust my annealing temp or anything like that - just an extra blast of heat before they go in.
Reich colors tend to be a lot stiffer than my Effetre - especially the transparents. Not sure if that means anything, but the consistency is definitely different so I tend to work them different too and am always careful to add extra all-over insurance heat after pressing any beads with the Reich.
Porcelain is the only color I've had true compatibility issues with so far. The rest have only given me devitrification issues or thermal cracking issues when I don't pay close enough attention. I love their colors, but they can sometimes be a little high maintenance.
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2012-06-06, 9:49am
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Jaci, FF, Leslie- Thank you all for input!!! I have been trying to figure this out!
Jaci- I have all of the above you mentioned done except for the base color I was using a thin barrel of the lilac and encasing it to give the core of color effect the bead is big enough but thought would be that the purple next to the mandrel might be causing my issues.
Leslie- I was afraid you were going to say the issue about high maintenance the color is a dream to work with but I think with it next to the mandrel it is cooling quicker than the clear or vice versa and I am left with the cracking issue
FF- I will most definitely contact them today about it however wouldn't that kind of crack show up as spider web cracking? Just wondering before I call to inquire 
If anyone has encased Lilac R104 successfully let me know and and if you would not mind sharing how you did it that would be great!
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Michelle
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2012-06-07, 12:06pm
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Jer. 29:11, Prov.10:19
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Join Date: Jun 29, 2005
Posts: 487
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I encase it, but over a core of the same clear, so far no problems.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SunDoorBeads
Jaci, FF, Leslie- Thank you all for input!!! I have been trying to figure this out!
Jaci- I have all of the above you mentioned done except for the base color I was using a thin barrel of the lilac and encasing it to give the core of color effect the bead is big enough but thought would be that the purple next to the mandrel might be causing my issues.
Leslie- I was afraid you were going to say the issue about high maintenance the color is a dream to work with but I think with it next to the mandrel it is cooling quicker than the clear or vice versa and I am left with the cracking issue
FF- I will most definitely contact them today about it however wouldn't that kind of crack show up as spider web cracking? Just wondering before I call to inquire
If anyone has encased Lilac R104 successfully let me know and and if you would not mind sharing how you did it that would be great! |
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2012-06-07, 10:16pm
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Glass-aholic
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I have had luck encasing problem colors with cirrus lately. I did the barrel center with a large encasement of cirrus. Depending on how you work it it can be almost clear to very opal cloudy cool. I put a few pics on my blog. Have not tried this with the reichenbach colors but if it works with the usual suspects (coral, red etc) Why not. Don't know why I forgot about this earlier!
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2012-06-09, 7:03pm
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Senior Member
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I've used several different batches of the R-104 Lilac with no problems. I'm pretty much in the habit of making a thin core of clear or whatever pale transparent that I grab first - usually pink, lavender blue, lt. topaz, etc. It saves a lot of $$ worth of the pricier colors, and eliminates most of the cracking problems. Also gives me a chance to heat out all of the bubbles from the bead release before I start on the "pretty" layers of the beads. Doesn't take very long for the habit to stick, so I don't even have to think about it now, and it doesn't slow me down or add too much bulk to my beads - I work pretty big anyway, so another thin layer doesn't make much difference. Even do the same on small spacers, down to about 6mm. The habit is so engrained that it's hard to start on a bead without the transp. core!
Sure hope there isn't a bad batch floating around. I absolutely LOVE that color!!
Good luck!
Birdy
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2012-06-10, 4:50pm
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Join Date: May 23, 2007
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Phew I am glad that you chimed in Birdy! I was waiting for someone who worked with the color often and had more than one batch in which to compare it too! I must admit the beads that cracked did not have a transparent core so I am of the mind set that this is the issue for sure! I cannot wait to make more and try it out!
Jaci- I have only gotten Cirrus to look opaly??? How can you keep it clear??? I am probably over working it or getting it too hot for sure. I will see if I can find a rod in my stash to try it out- thank you so much!!!! xo
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2012-06-11, 8:06am
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Glass-aholic
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the faster you work it not in and out of the flame the less opaly it is. the more you work it in and out of the flame the more opaly it can be. Try it, you might really like the effect
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