The secrets of Raku Revealed - Page 21

SunDoorBeads · #**601** 2010-04-12, 2:09pm

Dawn once again you have taken my breath away!!! I have one question would you mind telling us what black you are currently using- I am still trying to use up the 5 lbs of vetro black that I got a while back and it all kinda goes gun metal on me

I would love to use a good black that will not do that lol!!!

Dawn >^..^< · #**602** 2010-04-12, 5:21pm

Hi Michelle!

I've been using Lauscha black for beads that I'm not encasing. (You know I still have about two pounds of that bad batch of Effetre that I had the last time you came for a visit, so I just use that on beads I plan on encasing.)

Also...if you can find any, CIM Charcoal is a great alternative to black for big beads that you work for an extended time in the flame. I don't know if the Charcoal was an odd lot or just a color they discontinued, but it stays nice and shiny and doesn't pit around the edges of the raku. I have some CIM Tuxedo too but haven't tried it with raku yet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SunDoorBeads

Dawn once again you have taken my breath away!!! I have one question would you mind telling us what black you are currently using- I am still trying to use up the 5 lbs of vetro black that I got a while back and it all kinda goes gun metal on me

I would love to use a good black that will not do that lol!!!

sansan239s · #**603** 2010-04-12, 7:58pm

Dawn.... I must say: Your bead's are absolutely stunning! When I grow-up (no longer a newbie) I want to make beautiful beads just like you! Of course, not JUST LIKE YOURS, but have the abilities to work the glass to make the colors REALLY pop, like you have! A++

Sandy :0)

Ali Oops · #**604** 2010-04-14, 2:49pm

Try that Tuxedo...you will love it Dawn! It's my choice for black glass these days...but them I am becoming partial to CIM

...have not found a color so far that I didn't like.
Your beads are really beautiful thank you for sharing-

dragonfly designs 56 · #**605** 2010-04-14, 8:55pm

you are correct, dont reduce. I deleted that post because I think it was just some random thing that happened. Listen to Dawn, cuz its clear I havent a clue what Im talking about. I was just so excited I got color just wanted to share how it happened for me. I only use oxy flame now. So sorry for the misinformation./ I will be more careful prior to posting for now on.

Quote:

Originally Posted by monarae

I thought you were NOT supposed to reduce, that the raku wil turn dark brown when super heated and cooled, but if you reduce it turns silvery and you get yuk if you reduce and blues if you "brown" it.

dragonfly designs 56 · #**606** 2010-04-14, 8:56pm

Omg, those look good enough to eat!

Quote:

Originally Posted by dawn >^..^<

wow! Everyone's beads are looking great!

Lately i've been making sets using raku, multicolor dark and chalcedony all in the same set for an even wider range of colors. Here's a few examples....

dragonfly designs 56 · #**607** 2010-04-15, 8:55am

My first beads I think Ive ever posted....just wanted to show the color i got with RAKU all thanks to Dawn. also posted in newbie forum, sorry if you already saw them.
For the raku impaired. It is much easier for me to get color on a tube bead that I am constantly warming and marvering. I dont have this much color on round or even lentil beads. but now that I at least got color, I will keep practicing and quit making huge beads. these are not encased. Im encasing impaired.thats why I probably cant get color when making lentils. (i dont make round beads, its too hard for me to decorate on a rounded surface), lol.
Tears of a clown

Dawn >^..^< · #**608** 2010-04-15, 9:09am

No worries, Kelly. I think where part of the confusion comes in is that Raku actually IS a reduction glass. But it's also a striking glass and to get the vivid colors, it's best to strike it rather than reducing it.

Most other glasses that strike AND reduce look good either way. Raku is NOT one of those! To me, reduced raku looks like metallic mud.

Your "Tears of a clown" beads look great!

Quote:

Originally Posted by kellyhorton

you are correct, dont reduce. I deleted that post because I think it was just some random thing that happened. Listen to Dawn, cuz its clear I havent a clue what Im talking about. I was just so excited I got color just wanted to share how it happened for me. I only use oxy flame now. So sorry for the misinformation./ I will be more careful prior to posting for now on.

Locococo · #**609** 2010-04-18, 12:04pm

Dawn..........great colors like always.
And thanks for the tip about Cim Charcoal, will try that, cause I hate, when my Effetre Black gets that small pits.
I tried first time to encase Raku, but the colors turn to pale.

Like Raku more that way.

Elke

JulieV · #**610** 2010-04-18, 12:51pm

Those are all so pretty.
I've only ever problems with vet. black. I ALWAYS hazes on me. But never effetre. Just must be some bad batches out there, eh?

Locococo · #**611** 2010-04-18, 1:27pm

Julie.......I have that problem only when used with Raku due to the heat that will be need for it.
Otherwise my Effetre Black works well.
I hate Vetrofond Black.

Elke

JulieV · #**612** 2010-04-18, 2:50pm

Yes, Vet. black is evil! lol

AVTrout · #**613** 2010-05-08, 8:30am

Ok, I have read and re-read this thread and this is what I came up with:

Raku

1. make bead normal in neutral flame
2. apply raku and melt in
3. let it cool
4. turn down propane
5. super heat bead
6. should see cloud like effect
7. lightly marver or blow on bead to cool
8. it'll be black, which = good!
9. encase while raku is dark
10. heat as much as necessary to melt in raku and final shape
11. not encasing - give bead a flame polish till it's red

But I still get POOP brown!

woe is me!

JulieV · #**614** 2010-05-08, 8:44am

When I saw that someone had actually tried to summarized the tips, I was thrilled! But then you said you still got poop! Darn!
I will wait and see if anyone 'fixes' your list.

bjersbunch · #**615** 2010-05-08, 4:59pm

I will never give up until I acheive the results you all have had! So heres a simple question: I have 104 raku and want to know how high temp and how long to kiln anneal the raku bead....thanks

Nitadee · #**616** 2010-05-08, 6:16pm

Since I'm a poor old woman, if you have all this black that doesn't work for you.....I'm in the R.A.O.G.K.
hehehehhe!
I love looking in here. I can get some good colors out of Raku now, but not the pinks. I want pinks darnit!!!!!!!
I will say switching to the minor helped immensely too.
I will continue to come in and drool...in between trying to get that glass to work for me

Nita

dragonfly designs 56 · #**617** 2010-05-08, 7:30pm

I dont encase because I am encasing impaired. I only get good color when i do tube beads. I make the bead, roll in raku frit, 96, turn my propane down, oxy way up like dawn said. I cook the hell out of the bead at first, then roll on my marver. I make sure the whole bead is black. if not I keep superheating the part that is not black until the whole bead is black. when i stop super heating, i keep rolling the bead on my marver, either graphite (torch marver) or one of my brass marvers. Once its black, i start spot heating until the gets slight red, roll, between each time, i let the bead cool totally in between spot heatings. Learning to turn the bead black was a huge aha moment, (god bless dawn) spot heating and cooling was another huge aha moment. also, quit trying to do such large beads until I can get consistent colors. I can usually on the tube beads. I get the best color using 96 rods of raku , they are small rods, like two three times the size of stringer, i fry the hell out of the glass as im winding it on my bead, trying to save time, he he. sorry for the shitty pic, i got amazing purples and blues...you have to understand, raku was the reason i started lampworking. for a year, that is all I did was hundreds of raku beads. (was on a hot head, raku was new) just recently did I actually start to get alot of color, and on tube beads only. this went in the kiln unencased, and came out looking the same way. I can get purple and blues, thats about it.

Nitadee · #**618** 2010-06-05, 9:14pm

Yes, yes YES!!!!!!

Hugs,
Nita

glasser · #**619** 2010-06-06, 6:45am

How pretty is that? I'll tell you. Pretty, pretty, pretty!

Nitadee · #**620** 2010-06-08, 5:47pm

Thanks so much glasser, it's taken me a while to get there LOL!
Hugs,
Nita

LisaAF · #**621** 2010-06-08, 6:57pm

I hate all of you who can get color out Raku.

Who wants to buy mine? ;0)

Kevan · #**622** 2010-06-08, 8:12pm

Wow. This thread has over 112,000 views, Dawn!!

lordog · #**623** 2010-11-17, 5:19pm

Hi there! I'm a glass noob-I have been working with glass, strictly beadmaking at this point, for about 2 months. Just wanted to say thank you so much for this tutorial! I discovered raku about a week ago, and the first time I played with it I got nothing but yellowish splotches. THEN I discovered this thread, and tried raku again last night. I haven't seen my beads yet, but they already looked SO MUCH BETTER before going into the kiln! They aren't as amazing as some of the other posts here (you guys are an inspiration!!!!), but wow, I do notice a huge difference.

I am going to pick up my beads this weekend (The studio I use batch anneals 'em for us), and am crossing my fingers! I'm thinking I'll post "before tutorial" and "after tutorial" pics so you can see how much you've helped me.

Thanks again Dawn and everyone!

glasshobbit · #**624** 2010-11-18, 8:52am

Maybe this question/answer is in here but: Is Raku always a frit? Where do I buy it? Thanks!

monarae · #**625** 2010-11-18, 10:50am

Glass hobbit,

Raku is our common name for the color called "IRIS ORANGE". You can find it where they sell Reichenbach. Here's the link to Franz' 104 cane. It also comes in COE 96

http://www.frantzartglass.com/index....oducts_id=5281

glasshobbit · #**626** 2010-11-18, 12:04pm

Thank you!

cman · #**627** 2010-11-18, 5:44pm

Well after reading and reading this great thread started by a Great Lady south of me.

My Raku arrived this afternoon. I did 7 beads and I just took them out of the kiln. Nothing fancy like you great artist have shown.

After reading about all those that have struggled through the years. I was feeling blue of not getting the colors out of the flame. As I ventured on with the 7 beads they all got better using Iris Orange Frit. I will start using the rods Friday.

My problems were I was on O for Oxygen when I went to turn off my fuel and purge my lines for the evening.
While waiting I just read to Anneal them at 950. I was garaging at 850 then ramp to 950 area that was for the D Helix.

I did learn how to do D Helix in the last few days as well.
Well I can see I can sleep well tonight. Knowing I will be fine in the future doing Raku frit & rods. I did get some great beads in D Helix Clio plus man what cool colors and I can get them to look the same.
I have waited to do Raku since I started lampworking roughly 6-7 months ago.

I have to say I did roughly one K tank on torch to get this right so far.
Friday is another day Two more tanks to empty.

I think I will go dance in the street.

Thank you Dawn and all of you,
Cliff

glassjones · #**628** 2010-11-20, 11:13am

Quote:

Originally Posted by hellomoonglow

Ok, I have read and re-read this thread and this is what I came up with:

Raku

1. make bead normal in neutral flame
2. apply raku and melt in
3. let it cool
4. turn down propane
5. super heat bead
6. should see cloud like effect
7. lightly marver or blow on bead to cool
8. it'll be black, which = good!
9. encase while raku is dark
10. heat as much as necessary to melt in raku and final shape
11. not encasing - give bead a flame polish till it's red

But I still get POOP brown!

woe is me!

Hang in there peeps. I made poop colored beads for a really long time until I finally got the hang of it so keep trying...you can do it. I really have better luck with stringer that frit. I use a flame that is slightly more oxygen rich than neutral but not alot. I make a base bead (I like black or sometimes ink blue...they both seem to be more stable for me) then with the bead slightly below the bottom of the flame and close but not in it, I apply the stringer quickly with the stringer in the flame melting it in hot and fast. I am not looking for precise stringer work but just want to get it on there to show color. You want your stringer to heat until you see just a flash of transparency all over. (like suddenly the clouds disappear from the sky). Then take it out of the flame and gently marver so as not to disturb the shape of your bead. (I like brass better than graphite). It should turn very dark. The flash the bead in the top, cooler part of the flame and see if you get color. If you see purpley color developing bingo and you can encase then or flash again and work the color down through a range of blues. To encase I try to work guickly with the bead below the flame but in the warm surrounding area. To make it fast you can heat a glob of glass on the end of the rod and try to make it once around the bead if one fell swoop. Once the raku is covered it seems to be protected from further major color change and your color should stick around for final shaping.

Love this thread. Good luck and keep trying!

alb6094 · #**629** 2010-11-20, 9:28pm

Well it only took reading this thread a zillion times and three years of practice but I think I'm actually getting there, at least it's not brown anymore!

I was totally stoked when I pulled this out of the kiln this morning. I may just have to keep my raku frit now.

Dawn I never ever would have gotten this far without this thread, thank you so much!

glassjones · #**630** 2010-11-21, 1:12pm

Posting a few pics...made this one last night and the color is good, I think. (the airbubble in one view, not so much LOL)