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Beads of Courage


 
  #391  
Old 2007-12-09, 9:58am
Dawn >^..^<'s Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellyloo View Post
Pure raku/intense black twistie.
wrapped around black base, melted in HOT...blown on, repeated until i thought i got a result.
encased.


Very pretty, Ellyloo!!! I have to pay close attention when I blow on my raku, cause I've come pretty close to scorching my lips a few times!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Glasstastic Treasures View Post
Here's the bead I made the other day. It looks a little washed out, but I did get a lot of blues and pinks. I used the #0 size frit??? the smallest.

I didn't get enough glass to fit in my press, so I added clear over the top. So you might see what looks like a crack, it's just where the color came up between the clear. It was a practice bead, but I still like it.


Very nice, Jamie! Sometimes I partially encase mine just to get a variation of colors. So many cool effects can be done with raku. No wonder I it so much!!!
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  #392  
Old 2007-12-09, 10:40am
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Thank you Dawn. Yes, I love the many faces of Raku! Too bad my kiln decided to die yesterday. I was really in the mood for more raku! Guess I get to call Jenken in the morning.
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  #393  
Old 2007-12-09, 11:57am
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Originally Posted by Judi_B View Post
Thank you Dawn. Yes, I love the many faces of Raku! Too bad my kiln decided to die yesterday. I was really in the mood for more raku! Guess I get to call Jenken in the morning.
Oh bummer about your kiln, Judi!
Word to the wise....always keep an extra relay on hand. My Jenken Chilipepper with the Orton controller goes through a relay every 8 months!

Hope you get it fixed up and you're back in business real quick!
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  #394  
Old 2007-12-09, 12:29pm
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No worries on having to blow on it here right now. It's 38 F. All you have to do is wave it around in the air for a minute or two max. Angelique

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dawn >^..^< View Post
Very pretty, Ellyloo!!! I have to pay close attention when I blow on my raku, cause I've come pretty close to scorching my lips a few times!





Very nice, Jamie! Sometimes I partially encase mine just to get a variation of colors. So many cool effects can be done with raku. No wonder I it so much!!!
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  #395  
Old 2007-12-09, 7:18pm
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Thanks for the answer Dawn....some people encase so thinly that its hard to tell they are encased ( well in pics on the web anyways ) so I thought I would ask. I am just really having struggles with getting Raku to POP.

I am on a Betta with NG and 1 oxycon.

I heat till white hot and blow or use a brass tool...sometimes I succeed and most times I get brown poo. Usually when I blow on the hot bead and then encase I am a bit lucky and get some really nice blues and soome purples.

I have even tried what Val Cox suggests with heat, cool, heat, cool, repeat and colors will bloom - nothing.....much....yet

Going to keep trying.

I will say that I get more color with size 0 or size 00.
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  #396  
Old 2008-01-13, 12:41pm
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Hello everybody,
Usually I just lurk, but I am so frustrated with my raku lately. What type is everybody using?
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  #397  
Old 2008-01-14, 3:02am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dawn >^..^< View Post



Hi Dawn

YOu know, of all the "raku" beads you've ever posted, this set would have to be my absolute fav. I just love them....hhhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmmm......raku!

liz
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  #398  
Old 2008-01-22, 7:15am
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Thank you again Dawn, for your Raku tips! I'm on a Nortel minor since last week and the first thing I did, was trying Raku (I was on a hothead before and already got some blues back then)!

Now I get greens, blues, reds and sometimes purple as well.

Love your beads, you are the raku queen!
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  #399  
Old 2008-01-22, 9:46am
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Thank you Dawn,
You must have been reading my mind. I will have to try out all your suggestions. Your beads are gorgeous
CJ
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  #400  
Old 2008-01-25, 5:40pm
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Laurie L....I just have to mention to you a friend of mine who is a great bead maker is on NG and can't get raku to do anything. I think it's the ng.
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  #401  
Old 2008-01-25, 8:42pm
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I'm on NG, and my raku gets color, not like Dawn! but ok for tge amount of practice I've gotten so far.
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  #402  
Old 2008-01-26, 12:10am
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Okay, I have read and re-read this thread at least 5 times. Still playing with the raku and I am now finally able to get conistant results....encased ! Unencased is a diff story, but I am more than thrilled with my results. Thanks so much Dawn !
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  #403  
Old 2008-01-26, 4:47am
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Hi Dawn! Since I switched to Raku with COE 104, I don't get any color anymore. Is there anything special about this new Raku? Any hints for me?
Thanks, Verena
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  #404  
Old 2008-01-26, 9:58am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afina View Post
Hi Dawn! Since I switched to Raku with COE 104, I don't get any color anymore. Is there anything special about this new Raku? Any hints for me?
Thanks, Verena
Ut Oh! I hate to say this, but my only hint for you is to go back to the 96 COE Raku!

I worked with the 104 COE Raku for two days and had a real hard time with it. I tried working it like I do the 96 COE and found it to be very "runny" and it was hard to get it hot enough to shift without dripping it right off my mandrel. I plan to re-visit it again, but after two days of working with the 104, I was ready to pull my hair out!
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  #405  
Old 2008-01-26, 10:43am
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It's been a while since I've been on this thread and wanted to thank everyone for such nice compliments!

I have a new camera that can take videos too, and I'm hoping to do some short little video clips for different raku techniques. Sometimes I know what to do, but don't know exactly how to put it into words, so I thought a short video would be really cool.

In the meantime, let me say this about raku on the subject of Encasing -vs- Not Encasing.

Step one - This is the most important step! You need to do this whether you plan to encase or not. If you don't get this right, nothing you do after it will help. Make your bead in a neutral flame and apply your raku frit or stringer work and melt it in. Don't even think about color right now, just make the bead like you would any other bead as long as you have a neutral flame and don't let it reduce. Once you have the final shape of your bead with the raku melted in, let the bead cool to loose it's glow and to harden a bit in the center. The raku will probably be pale and brown at this point. Turn your propane / gas down real low and super heat the surface of the bead so close to the head of the torch that the flame candles lick the bead. (If you see a metallic film, you still have too much propane....you do not want to reduce it! Either turn your gas down more or crank up your oxygen.) If you turn your bead slowly in this hot, oxygen rich flame you will see a cloud like effect start to flow across the bead where the raku is starting it's shifting process. It's not colors you will see at this point but just the raku on the surface turning clear. Now that you have a good even super heat to the surface of the bead, take the bead out of the flame. If you're using a press, press it now while it's hot. If you're not using a press you can lightly marver it or just blow on it until the glow starts to go away, and then flash it back through the flame. The raku at this point should turn really dark, almost black. That's a very good thing! If it doesn't get dark, you didn't heat it enough to make it shift. Let it cool and try the super heat again. You only have a few tries on this before you burn the color out so try to get it hot enough the first time.

Step Two for Encased Beads - If you're going to encase the bead, DO IT NOW while the raku is at it's darkest! The heat from the clear glass you encase with will develope the colors for you! Don't wait until you have great colors showing to encase because the clear will only make the raku pale and you will loose those vivid colors. While your heating your clear rod to encase with, just waft your bead in and out of the flame about 4 inches from the torch....just enough to keep it warm enough to not crack, but don't let it glow or the colors will start to develope before you get the clear on! Once you have the clear on you can heat it as much as you need to to melt it in and do your final shaping. As the bead starts to cool you will see the lovely colors, and it will look even better when it comes out of the kiln.

Step Two for Non-Encased Beads - To develope the colors without encasing, you need to put your bead back in the flame just until it starts to glow red just like you' do when you flame polish. (Not a white hot glow) Then take it out of the flame and watch the colors develope as the glow starts to go away. This first attempt usually gives me reds and purples. For blues and greens, do the same thing again and bring the bead to a red glow and take it out of the flame and watch it. Once you have the colors you like, give the bead some nice even heat out in the middle of your flame, but don't let it glow again. This is just to make sure it's warm and happy before you pop it into the kiln.

Now go give it a try and don't forget to post some yummy raku photos!
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  #406  
Old 2008-01-26, 10:56am
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Thank you Dawn for sharing your experience with Raku 104.
And thanks again for sharing all your techniques and this summary. It is very much appreciated!
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  #407  
Old 2008-01-26, 11:44am
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oooooo Thank-you for that clarification, Dawn!
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  #408  
Old 2008-01-29, 9:36am
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I used Raku shards on one side of this marble.
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  #409  
Old 2008-01-30, 1:20pm
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I have a question (maybe dumb)... what COE is everyone using for the base before adding the Raku? I use primarily 104 but I have a small amount of Raku and it says 92-94 COE on the package. I got it from Glass Diversions (http://www.glassdiversions.com/cane.html) I can get some great color from it but I'm a bit nervous that my beads could be "unstable". I am using it sparingly, mostly pulling thin stringers but I have seen alot of Raku on some of the beads here and I am just curious if your base is 96 or 104?

Thanks,

Whitney
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  #410  
Old 2008-01-30, 3:19pm
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WOW ~ Dawn!!!!!!! What a wonderful, detailed tutorial!!! Thank you for taking the time to "enlighten" us! You writing it out like that made it sound so easy!! I can't wait to give it a try!!

Thank you again, Oh Queen of Raku

Last edited by Roseanne; 2008-01-30 at 3:20pm. Reason: Looking for a smile that bows down:)
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  #411  
Old 2008-01-30, 4:32pm
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This thread ROCKS!!!!


Thanks Dawn
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  #412  
Old 2008-02-02, 4:21pm
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Cheryl,,,I couldnt agree with you more re. polyme clay artists atitudes,well the majority anyway.I love the glass world,Its a wonderful place to be........now I need to figure out the camera , pics computer thing so I can show off the kooool and beauty teqs and ideas
I have learned from everyone in the last 6 months... Im getting pretty good too

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  #413  
Old 2008-02-02, 4:26pm
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The base of the marble is COE 104 and then the Raku is added on top of that. Occationally, I implode Raku on making a flower marble. Other times, I just cover the outside of a marble made from COE 104 with Raku.
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  #414  
Old 2008-02-02, 8:43pm
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To Dawn:

(Chanting): VIDEO! VIDEO! VIDEO! (I'm such a "visual" learner!!!!)

DeAnne in CA
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  #415  
Old 2008-02-03, 9:06pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheShard View Post
I have a question (maybe dumb)... what COE is everyone using for the base before adding the Raku? I use primarily 104 but I have a small amount of Raku and it says 92-94 COE on the package. I got it from Glass Diversions (http://www.glassdiversions.com/cane.html) I can get some great color from it but I'm a bit nervous that my beads could be "unstable". I am using it sparingly, mostly pulling thin stringers but I have seen alot of Raku on some of the beads here and I am just curious if your base is 96 or 104?

Thanks,

Whitney
Hi Whitney,

If I'm just doing one roll through the frit or one layer of scrollwork, a 104 COE base should be fine. If I'm going to saturate the bead with multiple thick layers of frit or scrollwork then I start with a 96 COE base, usually System 96.

I usually stick to the 10% rule when mixing COE's. The 96 COE frit you use on a 104 COE bead should be no more than 10% of the total volume of the bead.
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  #416  
Old 2008-02-03, 9:10pm
Dawn >^..^<'s Avatar
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Originally Posted by richsantaclaus View Post
The base of the marble is COE 104 and then the Raku is added on top of that. Occationally, I implode Raku on making a flower marble. Other times, I just cover the outside of a marble made from COE 104 with Raku.

OH!!! Those are both FABULOUS!!! I've done little droplet implosions with raku, but that flower rocks!

Santa baby, slip a marble under the tree....for me....
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  #417  
Old 2008-02-03, 9:15pm
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Originally Posted by theglasszone View Post
To Dawn:

(Chanting): VIDEO! VIDEO! VIDEO! (I'm such a "visual" learner!!!!)

DeAnne in CA



Well, I've done a few test runs with the camera on a little tripod and they were awful! I really need someone to work the camera for me. I'll keep experimenting with angles and lighting until I come up with something that might actually help.
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  #418  
Old 2008-02-03, 9:17pm
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Yep...Dawn you need to YOUTUBE this.
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  #419  
Old 2008-02-03, 9:34pm
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Originally Posted by Laurie L View Post
Yep...Dawn you need to YOUTUBE this.

I agree! I got all signed up with YouTube because I had one of me making a seashell I wanted to use as a test, but when I went to upload it I realized that YouTube has a file size limit of apx. 10 minutes. I clipped and cropped and still couldn't get it down small enough. That's why it would be great to have someone help with the filming so they could shut the camera off at the boring points like winding miles of glass on the mandrel....LOL!
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  #420  
Old 2008-02-03, 9:38pm
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Laurie L Laurie L is offline
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Join Date: Jun 12, 2005
Location: Canada
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You could break the video up into parts....I have seen a few Youtubers do that. Raku part 1, raku part 2, etc...

I'd love to see your seashells also. I think your beads are amazing !!!
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