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| Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2009-07-02, 6:52pm
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Striking-impared...
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Join Date: Jun 13, 2005
Location: Hot 'n Humid SE Florida
Posts: 595
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What's the Easiest Silver Glass to Strike?
I will admit, I am striking-challeneged when it comes to the silver glasses. I can reduce quite easily, but strike? I tend to get mud. To give you an example of the depth of my imparement, I have a really hard time with plain 'ol raku!
So my question, especially for ya'll on concentrators like me -- what do you find to be the easiest glass to strike? My tries on DaVinci2 and VanGogh were pathetic, so I ended up selling the glass before I ruined it all. 
I want to try a striking glass again, but I also want to give myself the best chance for success (defined as getting a color other than black, brown or mud to come out of the kiln). From reading the forums, it seems like some glasses are a bit easier to get decent color than others.
I run a bobcat on 2 concentrators, so I don't have a super-strong oxydizing flame. And onviously, the glass needs to be a readily-available color since I have to buy some, LOL!
Anyway, I appreciate you folks taking your time to put in your faves for easy (or at least relatively easy) striking.
And before I leave, here's a funny story. Back in 2007, I bought some experimental DH glass. I thought it was a striking color, so off and on since 2007, I have tried to strike the darned glass. Always got nada.
Today, I was looking in the SE5 thread on the Patio and what did I see? That my experimental glass is actually a lustre! No wonder why I have never been able to strike it.... 
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Gail
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2009-07-02, 6:58pm
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Tweedle Dumb
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Join Date: Jan 16, 2009
Location: Dolphins are just gay sharks.
Posts: 1,934
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i can get all of the DH strikers to work. give them a shot. if i can do it you certainly can. my fav is tn2.1
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Jamie Lynne (aka Bitty)
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<Click For My Latest Murrini!
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<Click! For Pandora Style Beads!
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2009-07-02, 6:59pm
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da General
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Join Date: Oct 05, 2006
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 13,002
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I would recommend Terranova 2.1.
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Hayley
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2009-07-02, 6:59pm
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da General
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Join Date: Oct 05, 2006
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 13,002
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Jamie Lynne - you and I posted at the same time recommending the same glass! lol!
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Hayley
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2009-07-02, 7:06pm
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Striking-impared...
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Join Date: Jun 13, 2005
Location: Hot 'n Humid SE Florida
Posts: 595
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Thanks Hayley and Jamie Lynne.
So far, Terranova 2.1 is leading the pack.  Any others to recommend?
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Gail
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2009-07-02, 7:25pm
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da General
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Join Date: Oct 05, 2006
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 13,002
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Gail - are you interested in using the striking glass on the surface or encased?
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Hayley
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2009-07-02, 7:31pm
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Striking-impared...
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Join Date: Jun 13, 2005
Location: Hot 'n Humid SE Florida
Posts: 595
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Whatever is easiest?
Seriously, at first I thought to do it un-encased, but if encasing makes it easier to get some color, even if it's more pastel, I'm all for that.
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Gail
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2009-07-02, 7:34pm
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Sorry for party rockin'
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Join Date: Oct 06, 2005
Location: Lewisville, TX
Posts: 3,456
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I was also going to suggest Terranova2 . . . . I don't have the 2.1 version, but I think they'd act the same, but possibly yield different colors.
Terranova2 is my favorite striking glass by far, I love it!!
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Ginny
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2009-07-03, 9:12am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 23, 2007
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 1,332
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I think you will have success with any of the transparent amber-purple glasses. That includes much of Brad's StrinkingColor line, TAG's Tibet & Transcendental, along with some of the DH and Precision colors (if I was sure of the names I would list them.) Most of the transparent ones don't require an initial round of deep heat to activate them.
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~Jenny
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"In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice; in practice there is." ~ Chuck Reid
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2009-07-03, 9:29am
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da General
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Join Date: Oct 05, 2006
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 13,002
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Interestingly I find that the opposite is true for myself and a lot of my students - that the darker opaque striking silver glass tend to be easier to strike AND keep the colors, especially under encasement. StrikingColor's dark opaque ones such as A7 and Pele definitely hold the colors better than Brad's amber transparent ones.
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Hayley
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2009-07-03, 9:48am
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<---RamboPatootieSuperbun
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Join Date: Apr 27, 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 1,694
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Double Helix has Terranova2 and Terranova 2.1 seconds for sale right now. $37.50 for 1/2 lb. Their seconds are comparable to most other manufacturers' firsts!
Kelly
PS They have Psyche seconds too! 1/2 lb. for $22.50!
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2009-07-03, 10:15am
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Grateful
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Join Date: May 14, 2007
Location: David City, Nebraska
Posts: 140
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I too have striking impairment. I'm glad I'm not the only one. I've read and re-read that tutorial on raku. I chill and heat and encase over and over and get mud-with an ocasional blue-ish streak. I've tried Terra and wasted almost a whole rod of the precious stuff, got TN2-also mud, can't get pandora to strike in my kiln even. I'm beginning to think my studio is a no strike zone. Thanks all for the tips and also for letting me know I'm not theonly one.
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Michelle
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2009-07-03, 10:22am
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Storm Queen
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Join Date: Aug 30, 2005
Location: SQUIDVILLE
Posts: 8,816
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I also vote for Terranova as being the easiest to strike. I'm having a deep love affair with it right now.
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2009-07-03, 10:32am
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burnin' glass just becuz
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Join Date: Apr 16, 2006
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 1,251
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i've only just started playing with some of my stock of silver glasses with varied amounts of success so far:
-triton rod - reduced easily to metallic. didn't try for any other colours yet
-elektra frit - super easy to get creamy blues. very pretty
-pschye frit - easy to strike to blue & purple. gives a nice organic look over opaques
-black nebula (stringer from frit) - no luck, turned beige. still pretty though due to the fuming around the stringer
-gaia frit - everyone says it's easy but my luck varies with this one. scorches easily, an effect which luckily i like
-kronos frit - my luck varies with this one as well. i've deliberately soaked it in a high oxy flame (once i gave up on striking to the intense blues) which made for some interesting creamy effects.
once i can figure out what i'm doing with the frit i'll move onto the rods... i think i need some Triton frit tho - that is one cool glass.
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Evelyn - Carlisle Lucio w/ 8lpm EX-15
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Give ideas away - there are new ones underneath... Diane Vreeland
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2009-07-03, 10:51am
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Storm Queen
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Join Date: Aug 30, 2005
Location: SQUIDVILLE
Posts: 8,816
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Evelyn, those are all reducing glasses. The OP wants to know about striking glass.
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2009-07-03, 11:08am
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burnin' glass just becuz
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Join Date: Apr 16, 2006
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 1,251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKDesigns
Evelyn, those are all reducing glasses. The OP wants to know about striking glass.
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LOL, DUH!!! 
as i said i'm a silver glass newb. maybe that's what i'm doing wrong? i thought i had to put them through a couple striking cycles first before reducing. anyhoo, back to the original question... 
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Evelyn - Carlisle Lucio w/ 8lpm EX-15
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Give ideas away - there are new ones underneath... Diane Vreeland
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2009-07-03, 11:42am
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Tacki
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Join Date: Oct 26, 2008
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,543
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TerraNova 2 was the easiest to strike when I first started out.
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2009-07-03, 12:43pm
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Storm Queen
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Join Date: Aug 30, 2005
Location: SQUIDVILLE
Posts: 8,816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewdb
maybe that's what i'm doing wrong? i thought i had to put them through a couple striking cycles first before reducing.
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You don't have to do that at all. Most reduction glasses just require a quick roll in a reduction flame and that's it. Some I have to get more aggressive with and stick them right in the cones but then I'm only on a minor.
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2009-07-03, 1:08pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 19, 2007
Posts: 306
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i was told to get a pretty oxidizing flame to strike- more so that i realized and that seemed to help.
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"Hold fast to dreams for if dreams die, life is a broken winged bird that cannot fly."
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2009-07-03, 1:11pm
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birdergirl ~o~
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Join Date: May 17, 2006
Location: Unorganized Territory
Posts: 2,002
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I've had trouble with my transparent glass getting smokey when using a reduction flame, any suggestions? I wish I could get better results overall too. I hesitate to invest in more silver glass til I do. Thanks for helping!
Also hopefully not off topic, my raku gets this ugly nicotine looking singe on it that I can't burn off ?
What is it??
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~raised by wolves~sleeps with foxes~cooks for crows~feeds the bears~scrabbles with squids~antisymmetrical~politically agnostic.
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Torchering glass since spring '06~ gold cricket & oxycon!~
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2009-07-03, 2:20pm
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Striking-impared...
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Join Date: Jun 13, 2005
Location: Hot 'n Humid SE Florida
Posts: 595
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Looks like the verdict is TN2.1, as far as easy striking goes.
I forgot that I had Green Dalai coming in an order (bought just 1 rod) that came in today. I got some pretty greens out of it (not exactly hard to do). Not sure if I got any of the turquoise-y blues -- have to wait until the beads come out of the kiln.
Yes, I saw that the DH site had the TN2.1 seconds on sale -- looks like I will have to go and scrounge up the $37.50.
You know what's so weird? When I did boro, I didn't have nearly the kind of striking difficulties I do now. I must somehow have been working the glass differently. Or boro is just a different animal altogether, LOL!
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Gail
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2009-07-03, 6:38pm
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burnin' glass just becuz
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Join Date: Apr 16, 2006
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 1,251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKDesigns
You don't have to do that at all. Most reduction glasses just require a quick roll in a reduction flame and that's it. Some I have to get more aggressive with and stick them right in the cones but then I'm only on a minor.
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only Triton has worked for me doing that. the others just sat there looking at me and didn't change at all. i've had to heat to red hot, let cool to watch the colours develop, repeat until i got the right intensity of blue (or green, purple or whatever) and THEN run through the reduction flame to get some colour. that's why i figured all these silver glasses had to be struck first before reducing. i'll try again this weekend to see... thx!
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Evelyn - Carlisle Lucio w/ 8lpm EX-15
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Give ideas away - there are new ones underneath... Diane Vreeland
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2009-07-03, 8:56pm
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Storm Queen
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Join Date: Aug 30, 2005
Location: SQUIDVILLE
Posts: 8,816
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Triton is super easy to reduce, you really don't even need a reduction flame. Aurae is like Triton's sister so it's the same way, super easy. I'd say Gaia is the hardest one.
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