Amber Purple help

saraconklin · #1 2014-10-12, 2:26pm

i looked on the site doing a search and couldn't find any threads with AP as the topic so i throw myself on your mercy. i have been doing 104 for so long i lost my boro mojo, i can't even strike AP it seems. anyone have any go to youtube videos to suggest or just some written words of wisdom? hard to imagine that an AP thread doesn't exist OR maybe i just don't know how to use "search." thank you in advance

Eileen · #2 2014-10-12, 2:45pm

I searched:

boro purple haze

and got several hits, one of them being this one, hope it helps!

http://lampworketc.com/forums/showth...er+purple+haze

houptdavid · #3 2014-10-12, 4:22pm

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ber+purple+DAP

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ber+purple+DAP

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...ber+purple+DAP

saraconklin · #4 2014-10-12, 4:57pm

thanks to the 2 of you. i just reread, twice, the beginning sections of Pipyr's 2008 tutorial "boro on an oxygen consentrator" and had more success with triple passion and the dreaded, AP. turned down my propane to 5, from about 8 (at 4 i couldn't really get my torch lit.....) that probably helped. will look at the links you suggest, thanks.

Cosmo · #5 2014-10-14, 1:33pm

Amber purple is pretty easy to strike. The key is keeping it hot. It likes to be either really screaming hot or room temperature. It doesn't like anything in between. It especially doesn't like repeated heating and cooling.

Try this - Take a plain rod of amber purple. Heat the end of it and ball it up. Keep heating until it goes completely clear. Then take it out of the flame and let it cool all the way down to where there is no glow. Introduce it into the back of the flame where it's just starting to get warm. You should see it go yellow, then brown, then purple. If that happens, you have successfully struck it.

saraconklin · #6 2014-10-14, 2:29pm

it gets to dark yellow, almost orange, not brown or purple. so, get hot as snot, cool till glow gone, back in outer part of the flame and KEEP IT THERE ???, i check the color once and awhile out of the flame, not long but definitely out of the flame, not so good?

saraconklin · #7 2014-10-14, 3:47pm

so, i finally got purple. it seems to work best for me if i get it snotty hot; cool, strike; snotty hot again, cool and 2nd strike. doing better and thanks everyone.

Cosmo · #8 2014-10-15, 6:24am

And you should be able to repeat that process multiple times. The key is to keep it really hot or cool. Don't let it spend too much time in between.

saraconklin · #9 2014-10-15, 12:35pm

kiln fairy was good to me. a couple came out pretty yellow but when i went back in and followed new advice did the snot, cold, snot, cold drill they have some lovely purples. i also like the filmy effect of playing with the silver on the surface by mixing some, just some! with clear and whipping it around so it is in the center of the bead. oh, so much fun. just got a glass order from Frantz and the rods are in the dishwasher as we speak, life is good. thanks to everyone.

MusicMakeLove · #10 2014-10-18, 1:51am

I have found that striking amber purple colors is best done by using an oxidizing flame when heating the color and working it (gets it hot and gets rid of all reduction and effectively turns color translucent) but be careful to preheat it a bit in the outer flame.to avoid bubbling. Once you have finished working it you may flame strike it a bit by using a slightly more reducing flame to heat the entire area that you want to strike (just enough to barely start to glow) Be careful not to overheat. You don't want anything hot enough to move. Just a good surface heat will do. Once you've applied your flame to the area, it can finish its striking in the kiln. I've gotten a lot of good results with amber and double amber purple as well as Queen Bee and all the Mai Tai colors using this technique.

https://vimeo.com/109309518

istandalone24/7 · #11 2014-10-18, 6:53am

nah....with a/p dont' worry about boiling it....it'll heal over. hell NS even says "go ahead and boil a/p".
one of the few colors you can abuse to the point of boiling and it still looks good when all is said and done.

saraconklin · #12 2014-10-18, 9:54am

thanks for the help everyone. thanks for the video connection, that's the color i was trying to get and finally did get. doing the hot, cold, hot cold twice seems to have been my answer. i will also play with doing a couple of annealing cycles to see if that indeed darkens the color. had no idea that Queen Bee was included in this working mojo. love the ease of Mai Tai family.

MagpieGlass · #13 2014-10-19, 8:18am

Quote:

Originally Posted by saraconklin

thanks for the help everyone. thanks for the video connection, that's the color i was trying to get and finally did get. doing the hot, cold, hot cold twice seems to have been my answer. i will also play with doing a couple of annealing cycles to see if that indeed darkens the color. had no idea that Queen Bee was included in this working mojo. love the ease of Mai Tai family.

I consider the Mai Tais Paul's rendition of A/P on steriods!! Love them all ... each differently but play with them much more often than regular A/P.

tiggybubba · #14 2014-10-22, 5:35pm

The yellow ones? Just keep chucking back in the kiln. Run a striking schedule. Garage, ramp to 1200-1250 hold 45 min ramp down to anneal.