Lampwork Etc.
 
Mountain Glass Arts

LE Live Chat

Enter Live Chat

No users in chat


Donate via PayPal to donate@lampworketc.com

Beads of Courage


 

Go Back   Lampwork Etc. > Library > Tips, Techniques, and Questions

Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 2014-05-05, 2:54am
Roshini Roshini is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 09, 2012
Posts: 30
Default gloves for healing cracks

I have been trying to make sculptural pieces but have encountered several cracks even though I keep annealing as I go along. I thought that if I could take a piece after annealing directly out of the furnace at the high temperature and directly plunge it into the flame I could heal cracks more quickly and efficiently. For that I'd need to use heat resistant gloves.
So my questions are,
Will this method help in sculptural work, especially in healing cracks?
And what glove should I buy that can protect my fingers when working with boro glass at annealing temperature?
Hope someone out there can help!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 2014-05-05, 3:13am
Kevan's Avatar
Kevan Kevan is offline
Entropy increasing....
 
Join Date: Nov 12, 2005
Location: In a box of paints
Posts: 25,098
Default

You have to reintroduce the bead to the flame very slowly. Start by just waving it in and out of the flame far away from the torch. Like 9 or 10 inches away. Roll it around a long time way out in the flame and slowly bring it in. If you just plunge it into the flame it is going to explode. The kiln is hot, but not even close to the heat of the flame.

I've healed lots of beads, even goddess beads, doing this. I took a goddess bead that was a reduction glass, off the mandrel, cleaned it and etched it. Then put it back on a mandrel, slowly introduced it to the flame and reduced it. It kept a texture from the etching, but it was metallic. Very cool.

And I didn't wear gloves.
__________________
"I am an artist… I am here to live out loud." Emile Zola

Last edited by Kevan; 2014-05-05 at 3:23am.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 2014-05-05, 4:06am
Hammer Hammer is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 08, 2014
Posts: 49
Default

I make my repairs in the kiln with a long neck National Hand Torch. Of course your kiln style dictates if this method is practical.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 2014-05-06, 2:27am
hyperT's Avatar
hyperT hyperT is offline
hyperT
 
Join Date: Jan 31, 2013
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 582
Default

Why are you getting cracks in the first place? Kevlar gloves may help. I used to use a large piece of agate to put a piece on in the oven, when heated up and all taken out of the oven the agate will retain heat for a long time rising up on your piece so you don't have to reheat slowly. The faster you work the less problems you will have, so know the steps you need to make in your sculpture very well first. The get after it with little or no hesitation.
Also start at one end and work your way through to the other. You can actually chase the stress out of the glass as you go by doing this. In other words don't jump all around the piece while making it.
Figure out the steps you are going to make first, then go to work. By viewing a piece that has cracked under a polariscope you will notice that the stress has been relieved when it cracked.

Last edited by hyperT; 2014-05-06 at 2:33am.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 2014-05-06, 5:31am
Roshini Roshini is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 09, 2012
Posts: 30
Default

Thanks for the feedback! The piece I am attempting to make is much larger than a sculptural beSo,. So I do slowly introduce it into the flame, start from one end and move to the other... However by the time I reach the middle of the piece the end has cooled down and cracks again
Hyper T, do you use a hand held torch while keeping your piece on the agate? also from what I have read Kevlar gloves catch fire if they come in contact with a piece at around 500°c... Am I wrong?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 2014-05-06, 5:32am
Roshini Roshini is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 09, 2012
Posts: 30
Default

I meant 'bead'
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 2014-05-06, 6:06am
hyperT's Avatar
hyperT hyperT is offline
hyperT
 
Join Date: Jan 31, 2013
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 582
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roshini View Post
Thanks for the feedback! The piece I am attempting to make is much larger than a sculptural beSo,. So I do slowly introduce it into the flame, start from one end and move to the other... However by the time I reach the middle of the piece the end has cooled down and cracks again
Hyper T, do you use a hand held torch while keeping your piece on the agate? also from what I have read Kevlar gloves catch fire if they come in contact with a piece at around 500°c... Am I wrong?
Don't know about the Kevlar. Didn't know exactly what you are doing. How big is the thing? Yes I use a hand torch and a large agate slab. Let it soak in the oven till its hot. Put it back in the oven with the piece if you need to reheat.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 2014-05-08, 3:41am
Hammer Hammer is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 08, 2014
Posts: 49
Default

Yes Kelvar gloves get REALLY uncomfortable at 500C. Mine didn't really catch on fire they just sort of melt through. Is it possible to use bridges to hold the piece?
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
annealing, gloves


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 4:09am.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Your IP: 34.227.191.136