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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2006-02-15, 4:35pm
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hummingbird3172 hummingbird3172 is offline
Anna Duhame
 
Join Date: Aug 27, 2005
Location: Saint Cloud, FL
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Default Tips for NOT boiling my transparents?

I just got a new torch...an upgrade from a HH...a Bobcat. Most things haven't been that hard to get used to, I am loving raku and rubino these days.....however I am not loving my clear and transparent aqua. I know I keep boiling it and then getting scummy bubbles. Is there a trick for avoiding this problem? I have tried working higher and this helps, but it is still kind of an issue. I really want to do some encasing, but this is making it all look like crap. HELP!
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  #2  
Old 2006-02-17, 10:49am
torchman torchman is offline
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I went from a hot head to a bobcat as well and I have had problems with my frits not being as intense and the reactions are different---I have not been all that happy with the bobcat--I am going to try to hook it up to natural gas and see if that changes anything --I was running into carbon buildup! I have not tried the raku since I have had the bobcat, but am looking forward to it--you do have to be careful to go way out in the flame to avoid any bubbles--if anyone can add to this -I would be grateful as well to learn what is going wrong
Thanks Brad
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  #3  
Old 2006-02-17, 10:56am
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I work on Diane's Bobcat, I do get ocassional lines in my encasing, which frustrate me, but I know that's me, not being all that great at pressing the air out as I lay down the clear and sometimes reheating the base bead too much during application. One thing I've found, that coming from a HH to a Bobcat, I was used to encasing with stringer because it would melt quicker on the HH. But, with the Bobcat, I want more coverage area quicker to not heat up my base bead from radiated heat, so I use a fatter transparent rod, and get a fatter (JUICIER, as Mari J would say) gather at the end of the rod before applying to the base bead.

But, I'm still working out the kinks.
I have seen Mari Johnson do an encasing demo on this exact torch, and she makes it look sooooooooooooooooooooooo easy!
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  #4  
Old 2006-02-17, 12:24pm
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Anna Duhame
 
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I wasn't getting lines so much as a scummy bubbly film....I took another look at "Passing the Flame" and I think I am maybe using a little too much of an oxidizing flame...now I need to try out this theory... .

Brad--I am LOVING raku on this torch....that has been the best part!
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  #5  
Old 2006-02-17, 12:34pm
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When I first switched from a HH to a Lynx I burnt the snot out of everything! So much heat and I wasn't used to it. With the HH you can either turn the gas up or down and if that wasn't right you put on a new tank. These torches are so different. So much variation in the flame. It took me a while to realize that just because the torch could act like a giant flame thrower, I shouldn't run it that way. I always wanted to set the flame and then make beads. Now I adjust the flame all the time depending on the work. Every now and then I still have a dah moment when I am melting the details too fast and realize the pinpoint flame would have saved the day.
Good luck,
Kathy
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  #6  
Old 2006-02-17, 12:44pm
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You probally have your flame too hot. Ive worked on a bobcat for almost 4 years now and I love you...get your flame a lil bushier and lower and work a lil farther out ....its really a very versatile torch once you get the hang of it
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  #7  
Old 2006-02-17, 7:27pm
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Anna Duhame
 
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I tried an encased bead today...without boiling it! I usually use the linear casing technique because I suck at the 'round the world technique...I tried the around technique again and it worked for me...I got a few bubbles, but I was making an aquarium bead so it wasn't that bug of a deal.

I did make my flame bushier AND work higher...these helped me so much! Thanks!!!

I have only been using my Bobcat a week and I LOVE it!!!!
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