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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips |
2012-09-15, 10:26am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 30, 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC (Over Yonder)
Posts: 665
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Anything I can do? Mandrel question..
I purchased these and didn't realize they would rust if I lay them in water.
So obviously I won't lay them in water. My question is it going to do anything to my glass or kiln? This is what I purchased:
INETIG NR ER70S-6 1/16 x 36-Inch on 10-Pound Tube Copper Free Tig Rod for Welding Carbon Manganese Steels
Thanks in advance!
Kitty
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2012-09-15, 1:28pm
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Alaska Boro
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Join Date: Dec 10, 2009
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 1,065
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Looks like a standard TIG steel filler rod. For mandrels most select a stainless steel TIG filler rod. Such as 304 or 308.
Some like 316 but for mandrels there is no data suggesting that one grade of SS rods performs better in lampworking conditions than another grade.
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2012-09-15, 2:15pm
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MacGalver
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Join Date: Oct 15, 2006
Posts: 9,927
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I would not think it would have any negative effect on your kiln. I put non-stainless steel into my kiln all the time ( old keys, homemade mandrels, etc), and I have not noticed any problems at all.
Jo
p.s. No idea how the non-stainless might affect silver colors, but I've had no problems with striking or reducing colors....
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2012-09-15, 9:58pm
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Naysayer
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Join Date: Sep 22, 2009
Posts: 1,203
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I don't put anything non stainless in my kiln after reading this
http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=228408
Maybe it's being too cautious but I don't want to play with an expensive piece of equipment.
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2012-09-16, 12:00pm
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Curmudgeon Engineering
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Join Date: Feb 15, 2006
Location: Near Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,723
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As Raven says there is some evidence that other metals in the kiln may be harmful under some circumstances.
you purchased regular steel rod. Stainless steel filler rods are the best way to go. The differance between 308, 304, and 316 is negligable for mandrel use though some may get a bead or two more out of 316s. Mandrels do wear out and will bend so next time get stainless.
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2012-09-16, 4:56pm
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 27, 2008
Location: Albion NY
Posts: 517
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You should be fine for most work, simply batch anneal on stainless.
The chemistry on fumed or striking colors is a little more sensitive.
The er70 stuff is a lot cheaper, though it may be easier to upgrade for your next batch.
As for stainless alloys 410 or 440 take a bit more abuse but 316 and 308 work great for most of us.
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2012-09-17, 9:04am
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 30, 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC (Over Yonder)
Posts: 665
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Thanks so much! I also am wondering are stainless rods going to be straighter if I get 36" length? Aaaaargh....I could kick myself.....
The rods I got are really curvy...
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2012-09-17, 9:18am
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Curmudgeon Engineering
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Join Date: Feb 15, 2006
Location: Near Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,723
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The "curvy"ness is usually the suppliers fault. I bought some from one supplier that stored his stock any old way and they were terrible. My regular guy stores his boxes flat on their side and they are almost always straight. Maybe you can get them to let you hand select your rods if you explain that they need to be straight.
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2012-09-17, 2:15pm
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Alaska Boro
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Join Date: Dec 10, 2009
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 1,065
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See if there is an Air Gas or Air Liquide welding store in your area. Most SS rods are now sold in either 1 pound or 10 pound lots. The 1 pound is packed in a plastic tube and cost more. Loose rod is good, but is becoming a rarity. Other welding stores are also a option for purchase.
Some rod is stamped on one end as to the type. Others on both ends. No stamp is the best, however check to make sure as that part of the rod has to be removed decreasing overall length.
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