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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2010-09-05, 3:32am
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Angry Encasing with transparents?

I dont make alot of encased beads, but would like to
The problem i have is the transparent never looks CLEAN and CRISP
it always looks dirty and dull.
even though i clean the rods first, why is this happening??
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  #2  
Old 2010-09-05, 4:01am
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What torch are you using? If you are on a hothead it is hard to keep your clear or transparent clean looking. You have to work far out of the flame.
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  #3  
Old 2010-09-05, 5:35am
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i use a hot head. first off you need to get the best clear glass made by lauscha. need to turn down flame. i work in a very low flame, not low in the flame. it takes a while to melt. but if you work in a strong flame and very hot on hot head you will burn the glass.

looked at your etsy site, your beads are beautiful.
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  #4  
Old 2010-09-05, 6:46am
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Different transparents yield different results. I absolutely love R104 Roselin (pale pink transparent) for encasing, it never gets hazy or bubbly.

If you meant clear transparent, nothing beats Aether for clean and crisp. Tradeoff is that it reacts with silver and turns it gold-green (which can be a positive if that is what you are going for).
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  #5  
Old 2010-09-05, 9:44am
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im using a bethlehem minnow and no i dont mean clear
its more of the coloured transparents, i made a frit based bead and encased in a pale amber but the amber looks awful its not clear at all.
thanks for your input guys!
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  #6  
Old 2010-09-05, 10:00am
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Could your pale amber be reacting with your frit?
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  #7  
Old 2010-09-05, 10:02am
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I found that sometimes it is the combo in the frit mix that will make the transparents
dirty looking. This is just a suggestion, but it is what happened to me.
Katie
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  #8  
Old 2010-09-06, 1:58am
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I've had great luck with TAGs clear (Clarity) after frustration with lots of others...
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  #9  
Old 2010-09-06, 3:52am
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Amber contains sulphur, so colors that react with ivory will also react with amber. I also think that the fritblends could be the problem. Maybe a thin clear encasing and then layer the other colour?
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  #10  
Old 2010-09-06, 8:50am
SteveWright SteveWright is offline
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I get optically clear from Vetrofond and Effetre 17-18mm rods after peeling them.

Here is how I do it.

http://www.tumbleweedglass.com/videos.html

I either pull 6mm rods for encasing, or use the clear in a Stump Sucker, after peeling the impurities. It's amazing how much scum and crud comes off.

Steve
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  #11  
Old 2010-09-06, 4:03pm
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I think Verena is right, and something in your frit reacts with the amber. If you still want to use the amber or the frit, I would do a thin clear encasing first.

Pia
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  #12  
Old 2010-09-06, 4:20pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveWright View Post
I get optically clear from Vetrofond and Effetre 17-18mm rods after peeling them.

Here is how I do it.

http://www.tumbleweedglass.com/videos.html

I either pull 6mm rods for encasing, or use the clear in a Stump Sucker, after peeling the impurities. It's amazing how much scum and crud comes off.

Steve
Dont understand...how would i do this with a regular rod?
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  #13  
Old 2010-09-06, 4:42pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angie View Post
Dont understand...how would i do this with a regular rod?
very painfully...
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  #14  
Old 2010-09-06, 8:11pm
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Amber can be fussy and may get micro bubbles if you get it really hot. Try some different transparents and see if they do better for you. I have good luck with pinks and lavenders. Light blues/aquas, forget about it.
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  #15  
Old 2010-09-06, 8:25pm
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yes, especially aquas are terrible... but they dont scum, just boil. I love to encase with aqua, but it is so slow, since I have to work really high in a flame.
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  #16  
Old 2010-09-06, 9:05pm
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Don't forget to clean your glass really well before using it. I use a coffee filter and rubbing alcohol (Thanks to Val Cox for that idea!) or even a vinegar/water solution will work.
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  #17  
Old 2010-09-07, 5:36am
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It can be makes you crazy but work with really low flame as you can. I often have the same problem when I'm impatient and use high flame to make it faster. It results with dirty looking transparent and lots of bubles in it.
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  #18  
Old 2010-09-07, 7:34am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angie View Post
Dont understand...how would i do this with a regular rod?
You can't, it takes a big rod or Shott Puck.

Steve
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  #19  
Old 2010-09-07, 11:43am
Chris Hansen Chris Hansen is offline
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sounds like the frit and amber are not playing well together? I second/third the suggetions to do a thin layer of clear and THEN the amber...

and, in general, overheating clear/transparents will lead to scummy ugly results - try a smaller (neutral) flame, and perhaps working a bit further out, to avoid overheating the glass.
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  #20  
Old 2010-09-07, 11:58am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveWright View Post
You can't, it takes a big rod or Shott Puck.

Steve
I think the point was she is not using clear
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  #21  
Old 2010-09-07, 1:09pm
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I had this problem recently and it was because the end of my propane tank was dirty. Hooked up a new tank and voila no sooting. You still have to be careful with transparents and I don't even bother with the clear, I use lauscha clear only.
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  #22  
Old 2010-09-07, 4:14pm
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I agree, if you don't mind the bead being a bit bigger, you can encase in clear first then the color. You will avoid reactions that way.
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