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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

View Poll Results: How do you finish the last step in flattening your bead liners
Use a large press - i.e. Jim Moore press 17 47.22%
Use a dapping block 4 11.11%
Use a chasing hammer 6 16.67%
Other 10 27.78%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 36. You may not vote on this poll

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  #31  
Old 2010-03-31, 2:42pm
Amy's Artisan Beads's Avatar
Amy's Artisan Beads Amy's Artisan Beads is offline
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I LOVE my Impress! It is my favorite tool on my bench. Also, would not be without his deburring tool. Worth every penny!
Amy
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  #32  
Old 2010-03-31, 3:00pm
Alaska Alaska is offline
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Not sure if the way the flaring tool is made is the issue or not. It has a very sloppy fit. (the top screw and pointed center) Also, this is the same flaring tool that can be found at Home Depot for about thirty bucks for flaring copper tube but has been modified by Art in the Round for bead work.

Using the SS from IJS. Do 1/4 turns, with a flip each time. Tubing is cut 3 mm longer than the bead thickness for 5 mm tube. The beads all have very deep dimples which should not be an issue with the shorter tubing lengths.

Usually do not have an issue with cracking for the 5 mm tube. But for 1/8 using dead soft .999 tube it is a bit more critical.

Obtaining a flair that is not swagged to one side is my greatest challenge so far with the impress. One can say it is faster but if it is inconsistent then it becomes a non desirable tool/process.

Seems that this is one of those on a wing and a prayer processes.

Last edited by Alaska; 2010-04-01 at 1:49pm.
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  #33  
Old 2010-03-31, 5:14pm
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Vicki B. Vicki B. is offline
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Glad I'm not the only one - feel challenged - another $#@& split!!
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  #34  
Old 2010-04-08, 5:40pm
DaveF DaveF is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simbasmom View Post
"With 1/4 inch SS no luck at all. The tube just likes to swag to one side."
That is exactly the problem I had..and it happens with smaller tubing at times. I have to constantly make sure the tube is centered on the pin. I don't have big hands but the small work space between the flaring tip and the centering post is a pain especially when you add a bead cap to the process. More often than not the beginning flare is not even....probably movement of the tube again. I have quite a collection of tubing that will be scrapped. Needless to say I am saving up for a better quality tool.
Colleen
Colleen,

My guess is either your tool is simply out of adjustment, you have the wrong size peg installed, or it is defective. (I doubt the latter but it's possible of course.) Either way I will take care of you. The fix is simple. I wish you would have let me know directly Colleen. I would have taken care of your issue immediately.

Regarding the small spacing, I can widen that.

I've sent you an email requesting your number so I can call you. I also gave you mine.

Dave
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  #35  
Old 2010-04-08, 6:00pm
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AKDesigns AKDesigns is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squid View Post
Get an Impress - seriously it will make you wonder how you ever tried it any other way.
I love my Impress. I only use it and the deburring tool he sells as well. I don't do anything else to finish it, just using the Impress does everything.
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  #36  
Old 2010-04-08, 6:52pm
DaveF DaveF is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicki B. View Post
So this week I've been working on trying to line beads with copper tubing with only moderate success. I've learned every flaw of the shape of every bead I've tried to core with some chipping because they were not even and with the coring copper splitting because I cut the cores too long. I'm working on a new batch of hopefully smaller beads (the first batch were gigantic compared to the others I see on here - I keep adding on glass trying to even the beads up).

Here are a couple questions for those of you with the beautiful linings

1. Is it better to have nice indented holes on the beads as usual or more flat ends?

2. Do you use a chasing hammer to achieve nicely domed metal on the last step? I am getting flat looking ends with the Jim Moore plastic final press.

3. Is there some secret to getting the glass on the 1/4 inch mandrels more evenly to start off with? These larger mandrels seem to resist evening up.

4. I am getting a big burr on the underside of the tubing cut with the Harbor Freight cut-off saw. It's hard to remove. Is there any way to prevent this, and how should I clean up the metal ends of the copper before I start to work with it. They seem pretty rough.

Thanks for any help you can point me to. I've searched on this forum and came up with a couple threads that had a lot of info, but maybe some others have tips too.....
1. With an Impress, a pucker is fine. You do need somewhere for the silver to go.

2. The domed shape is easily made by the Impress.

3. If you are using solid mandrels, that's probably your problem. They soak up a lot of heat and cool your bead from the inside, so it can't flow properly and evenly. The simple fix for tat is to preheat the crap out your mandrel all over the whole area you've dipped before you apply any glass, and then keep it happy. (ie hot)

4. If you use a good quality mini tubing cutter you will probably have no burr on the outside at all. You can clean up the inside very easily with my debur tool or some other type. A round file will work but it is more work and can't produce the same even finished edge as a debur tool made for this exact job. You can try it for 30 days. If you aren't totally happy with it I'll refund your full purchase price.

Your splitting may be due to hard copper. A lot of that rigid copper tubing is very hard. I had to anneal it or it split every time. It's easy to do. Check my FAQ page for how to do it, and a lot of other stuff.
http://host.pappapak17.com/~artinthe/faqs.htm

Regards,
Dave
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  #37  
Old 2010-04-08, 7:38pm
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Thanks so much, Dave.
I was wondering about annealing the tubing as it seems so brittle. Probably the uneveness of the bead edges is the biggest factor though - just not prime beads. I just purchased the deburring tool where I got my tubing, but it doesn't seem very intuitive to me. I think I'm just a klutz because I can't figure out why it seems hard. How difficult can it be to twist that tool inside the tubing? But it just skips and kind of bumps along and I end up using a file anyway. I am kind of using it in a paring knife motion - trying to brace against my thumb.

It's just not easy. Maybe after I do about a hundred of these I'll get the knack. Am going to try caps next because it might give me a more even edge, right?
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  #38  
Old 2010-04-08, 8:36pm
DaveF DaveF is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicki B. View Post
Thanks so much, Dave.
I was wondering about annealing the tubing as it seems so brittle. Probably the uneveness of the bead edges is the biggest factor though - just not prime beads. I just purchased the deburring tool where I got my tubing, but it doesn't seem very intuitive to me. I think I'm just a klutz because I can't figure out why it seems hard. How difficult can it be to twist that tool inside the tubing? But it just skips and kind of bumps along and I end up using a file anyway. I am kind of using it in a paring knife motion - trying to brace against my thumb.

It's just not easy. Maybe after I do about a hundred of these I'll get the knack. Am going to try caps next because it might give me a more even edge, right?
I take it you have the swivel type. If so, to use that one, don't use your thumb like a paring knife. That's totally wrong. Just put the end into the tube and run the tool around in a light, even, circular motion. Don't press. Let the tool swivel freely. Easy does it. You'll get the feel of it pretty soon.

"Dave's debur tool" ( Imaginative name huh? ) requires no learning curve, and is pretty much fool proof. It can't go wrong, can't gouge etc. That is one drawback of the type you have.

Your bead edges probably have nothing to do with the tubing splitting. You just need soft metal, and a clean even edge on the tube.

I think I can probably help you on several fronts with a phone call. Email or PM your number and a convenient time if you want, and I'll be glad to give you a ring.

Regards,
Dave
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  #39  
Old 2010-04-08, 8:55pm
DaveF DaveF is offline
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"Alaska" and I have already spoken by phone. I am pretty sure Alaska got a defective tool based on what we observed in diagnosing it. I'll know for sure when I get it back. That really is rare folks. I try very hard to be sure everything that leaves here is right as rain. I sent out a brand new Impress today, post paid, within 3 hours of our conversation. I believe that is the only one I've had to replace out of 500. I do strive for perfection, but hey, I'm only human.

Dave
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Last edited by DaveF; 2010-04-08 at 9:03pm.
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  #40  
Old 2010-04-09, 1:14am
Alaska Alaska is offline
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What a surprise from Impress this early afternoon. It was Dave phoning asking about the issue I am having with the Impress. His solution is to replace the machine with another one. A few hours later and it is on its way.

From reading other posts about the impress, most are very satisfied with its performance. It is much faster than using a set of dapping punches and priced much less than other options.

What is great about Dave is that he wants to make sure his customer's are satisfied customers. He is the first, in a long line of net purchases, to initiate a follow up to solve an issue. I am most impressed with Dave's 100% customer care policy!
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  #41  
Old 2011-10-24, 7:46am
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Dave's a great guy! He called me years ago and within a moment it felt like talking to a knowledgeable, caring friend! I would recommend his tools and customer service to anyone!
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  #42  
Old 2011-10-24, 8:58am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theglasszone View Post
Dave's a great guy! He called me years ago and within a moment it felt like talking to a knowledgeable, caring friend! I would recommend his tools and customer service to anyone!
I'll second this! He was prompt to responding to my one inquiry and his tools are awesome. I have the impress, deburring tool, and the lift kit which I love because I can core gynormous beads now, LOL!
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  #43  
Old 2011-11-08, 12:08pm
Harry Harry is offline
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here is a clip that might help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m23tuiFVfE8
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  #44  
Old 2014-10-05, 3:07pm
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EchoTantuli EchoTantuli is offline
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The tubing doesn't look like it is soooo long that you should have splits like that, those are big splits. The tubing can make some difference too. I am heavy handed as you say you are, and it is very easy for me harden the tube just by cutting and pre working it (deburring & sanding). I anneal all of my tube with a torch before I core so it is more agreeable. The only exception I have made is the dead soft fine silver tube I bought, which is so super soft... that I tumble it for little before I core (this may also help with smaller tubing that doesn't have much substance). I have heard oodles of good stuff about the Impress, although I have never used one. My first one was the Retro, which has a bit of a learning curve to it, and trashes even my heavy hands after doing a decent batch. So I bought the Nortel, and I LOVE it! The best thing is that it is a lever vs. screw method. If you don't do lots of coring it might not be worth the investment, but if you do, the break on your hands is worth every cent... plus it takes almost no time comparably with not having to screw and unscrew between flips.
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