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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2015-11-03, 3:26pm
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Default Etching metal

Chocake asked me what I use as a resist when I etch my copper, so I decided to post a picture. I have also used a fine point sharpie. I find (at least for me) that I get finer detail when I use a saline solution etch vs a muraric acid/peroxide solution etch.

PS....for some reason my iPad is posting the picture upside down....sorry
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  #2  
Old 2015-11-03, 4:46pm
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Do you do any silver etching and, if so, what do you use? Thanks!
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  #3  
Old 2015-11-03, 6:24pm
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Not yet, only copper. Not brave enough to try the good stuff yet
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Old 2015-11-03, 8:35pm
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Me, either, but I want to.
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  #5  
Old 2015-11-04, 8:06am
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I have done some Silver etching....I use silver nitrate as the solution and then my electroforming machine for the electrical current.

I use the same resists as I do for copper - mostly PNP paper.
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Old 2015-11-04, 8:25am
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PNP Paper??
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  #7  
Old 2015-11-04, 8:46am
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PRESS n PEEL Paper - it is a paper that you can print/photocopy a design on and then you iron it onto the metal and then peel the paper off. The ink is left on the metal as the resist.

It is kind of expensive but I will do up a whole sheet of the design I want and then use what I need for the etch.

they use it for circuit boards....
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Old 2015-11-04, 9:16am
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Thanks for the explanation. If I wasn't so dang lazy I'd have just looked it up for myself. LOL
Mina, can you use permanent ink (Stays on??) or do you know.
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Old 2015-11-04, 10:50am
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On copper - Staz-on will work. So will any regular rubber stamp ink covered with embossing powder. I don't like to use embossing powder though, it's hard to tell how deep the etch is when the embossing powder is raised.

On silver - Staz-on will kind of work for a shallow etch. It's not a strong enough resist if it's left in ferric nitrate for more than 1/2 hour. I use PnP 99.9% of the time with silver as I know it will hold up and I'll get a good etch with it.
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Old 2015-11-04, 2:57pm
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I use 651 permanent vinyl - I cut the design out on my silhouette and then apply it to the metal and treat it just like a permanent decal - so far it has worked with no leakage
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  #11  
Old 2015-11-04, 3:56pm
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DeMarie, I've heard of that technique but wondered how well they stayed attached.
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Old 2015-11-04, 9:31pm
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:S
I bought some sheet copper today.... It was a
coupon deal at Michael's crafts. While I was shopping I encountered a rather talkative older lady who felt she should bend my ear about all things crafty. I was busy nodding and umm-hmm-ing while I made my selections and paid for my purchases. ..."All" of the sheet metal packs at Michaels/ JoAnnes are combos of silver plate, brass and copper. Not great quality stuff, but probably good enough to practice with.
... ... I got home and I seem to have bought the one and only non combo in the store. I got all "silver plate" (and it's crappy silver plate at that). *sigh. Thanks, lonely little old lady. I really can't thank you enough for distracting me. I hope you appreciate the sacrifice I made for you.

Does anyone have any recommendations for how to use it??
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  #13  
Old 2015-11-04, 9:37pm
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No, but I get my copper sheet metal at the hardware store. They sell panels for roofing. It's a nice gauge for etching. I get my copper tubing there too. Just bought 1/4" tubbing I'm gonna etch.
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  #14  
Old 2015-11-04, 11:00pm
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This tutorial is on my list when I upgrade to a laser printer.
http://steampunkworkshop.com/etching...bible-article/
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Last edited by losthelm; 2015-11-06 at 4:26pm.
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  #15  
Old 2015-11-06, 10:43am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwire View Post
PRESS n PEEL Paper - it is a paper that you can print/photocopy a design on and then you iron it onto the metal and then peel the paper off. The ink is left on the metal as the resist.

It is kind of expensive but I will do up a whole sheet of the design I want and then use what I need for the etch.

they use it for circuit boards....
Would this work as well as the blue PNP paper? It's a lot cheaper.
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Old 2015-11-06, 9:52pm
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Norma just so you know a muraric acid/peroxide solution etch also etches sideways the deeper you try to etch so you tend to get an undercut
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Old 2015-11-06, 10:29pm
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Yea, I usually cover the sides with permanent marker and use tape on the back. Is that what you were referring to David?

Edited/added: I used to etch with muraric acid/ peroxide, but now I etch with saline. I usually stop the etching process before it etches very deep.
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  #18  
Old 2015-11-07, 5:40am
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You can get some under cutting on the etch itself and loose detail.
Images become fuzzy and line fine lines are most noticeable. Acid Concentration can help improve this some what.

Bubbles can also form and act as a resist making it look a little pick marked.
Agitating the tray can help to dislodge sead bubbles.
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  #19  
Old 2015-11-07, 10:37pm
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A friend of mine sets her acid etching container on the dryer when she has a load of laundry in it and the small vibration makes a difference in her pieces without having to baby sit it.
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  #20  
Old 2015-11-07, 11:26pm
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Phil, that's a good idea
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Old 2015-11-15, 5:06pm
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Good grief... I read that 'tutorial' on the salt water etching and I am flabbergasted at the time, energy and fact that it uses electricity...YIKES I do use electricity for electroforming and that is an easy process (see my post in Free Tutorials). I do a lot of metal etching and always use ferric chloride for copper, nickel and brass and ferric nitrate for sterling silver. I really do not want to promote my tutorial on this thread. But, pm me if interested. Also, if you use the 'Edinburough etch", you can get a really clean etch compared to the normal striations, bumples etc with a regular etch. I will post in Tutorials For Sale.
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  #22  
Old 2015-11-18, 4:12pm
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We use nitric acid for silver, with pnp film for resist. It is dangerous, but manageable.
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