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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2013-09-15, 10:53am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Default trouble shooting home fill

Need some help with my home fill.
this is what is happening.
green light is on the concentrator but it shows the ball at almost zero when I turn on the homfill and the green light is on home fill indicating that it is receiving good oxygen but the tank is not filling or if it is the oxygen tank is receiving very little that I can't see it measuring.
Is there filters on the home fill to replace cause it seems that it is getting the oxygen just slowly. Help!!
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  #2  
Old 2013-09-15, 3:12pm
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have you run one of these before? sorry not trying to sound condescending...it just takes about 2.5 minutes for it to start filling and fill very slow. a K tank will take over 24 hours to fill.
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  #3  
Old 2013-09-15, 3:27pm
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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I have been using it for about 1 1/2 years with no problems and I am aware of the slow to fill. I have a concentrator that I usually runs for about the three minute mark and then the home fill detects the the purity is good then it starts to do its thing but its not doing its thing. But by all indication of the lights and everything its a go. but it doesn't flow. I have read some where that it could be the compressor in the home fill and will give the manufacturer a call tomorrow. Have you came across this before ?
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  #4  
Old 2013-09-15, 3:48pm
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There is a thread about this problem but I can't find it right now. There are Ball Valves on each compressor cylinder. Sometimes they don't seal and the machine stops working well.
If you are a DIY person, remove the cover and tap on the top of all the cylinders to release the Ball Valve. Do this while its running.

EDIT: I found the thread, it was on TMP, post 18 is the video...
http://www.talkglass.com/forum/showt...ill-stopped-up

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Last edited by Raimond; 2013-09-15 at 3:53pm. Reason: Found more info
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  #5  
Old 2013-09-15, 9:53pm
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Thanks for the info. Could you post the link to the video I can't see the post
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  #6  
Old 2013-09-15, 10:14pm
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Here is the direct link on YouTube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6t-h...layer_embedded
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  #7  
Old 2013-09-15, 10:55pm
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Thank you thank you Raimond.... going to try this tomorrow.
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  #8  
Old 2013-09-16, 12:39pm
khan khan is offline
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Another thing that has gone wrong with mine is that sometimes you get a very small leak where the copper tubing comes out of those ball valves... get a brush and use soapy water to check each connection. If any are leaking it will cause the thing to not fill your tank because its putting in such a small amount that even a little leak is wasting all that would be going into your tank. I have found 2 leaks on mine in the last few months.
If you find one just lossen the connecter and then retighten it until it seats. That is a compression fitting so it has to be pretty tight.
Hope that helps some.
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  #9  
Old 2013-09-16, 2:00pm
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...
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  #10  
Old 2013-09-16, 2:38pm
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Just remember, if cleaning oxygen fittings and equipment be very careful about selecting cleaning agents and leaving incompatible residue. Don't want any spontaneous ignition.
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  #11  
Old 2013-09-16, 6:17pm
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Yes I am aware of oils and stuff around fittings but glad you mentioned it. I will check for leaks when I take the housing off.
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  #12  
Old 2013-09-17, 11:50am
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Ok I took the housing off and the big wheel part seemed stuck so I forced it around and it started spinning freely after a bit. So I plugged it back in and got it running with the big wheel moving then it started squeaking then it would cease up again. the squeak almost turns to a grinding noise then it stops again. The belt looks good any ideas.
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  #13  
Old 2013-09-26, 8:11am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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So we figured out it was the bearings and took it to a place that fixes farm equipment and they totally hooked me up. They don't usually work on stuff like this but they new what a bearing should do and sourced out a small one that would fit then even found a small tool to change it out on the shaft. Should be up and running by the weekend.
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  #14  
Old 2013-09-26, 8:40am
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Great!
I bet they actually had a good time finding the parts and repairing your machine.

You can leave the cover off and it will reduce the heat on the parts as well.

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Old 2013-09-26, 9:05am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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It was a good friend of ours so he went the extra mile for me. plus I promised to melt and make him anything he wants. I am glad I can make some good stuff.
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  #16  
Old 2013-10-06, 9:02am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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So we put the new bearing in and it appeared to be working but it is not filling. Checked for leaks and found one and fixed it, but it still isn't doing its thing any suggestions??
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  #17  
Old 2013-10-06, 10:09am
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Is the Filling light on?
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  #18  
Old 2013-10-06, 11:30am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Yes the filling light is on. I have the cover off and I can hear everything turn on and when it senses that the purity is good the fly wheel starts it thing and the light changes saying it is filling. Hmmm....
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  #19  
Old 2013-10-06, 1:31pm
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Did you watch the video about the sticky ball valves and tapping on the blocks to unstick them?

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Old 2013-10-06, 4:25pm
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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I did watch it and I have given them a couple of wacks. is there a way to tell if they are doing there job?
And thanks for keeping tags on this post I appreciate the feed back I know this machine can be fixed if I have enough feed back lol
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  #21  
Old 2013-10-06, 7:02pm
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The technique used in the video is "tap and suck".
However, If you take the end of the hose from the Homefill and put it close to your cheek ( a couple of inches) you will be able to feel the output. The cheeks are very sensitive to temp and wind.... If there is no output, tap on each of the block until it begins to flow... Or follow his advice...

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  #22  
Old 2013-10-07, 9:51am
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I donno how this turned out for you deb terry. But i wanted to add this to what is already said.
If you disconnect the hose off your tank after its running an put your thumb over the end of the hose. That thing should shove your thumb completely off the end. I mean it has a lot of force. You will feel it push the air out hard. That way you know if the valves are working and all that.
If you do that and then put it back on your tank and just close the valve on your tank and watch you gauge to see if the homefill compresses just the hose cause now it cant go into your tank. You should see it going up really fast. If all that works then you know its got to put air into the tank when you open the valve.
If you do all that and its working like that then your just not being patient enough. It will fill the tank but it takes forever.
Just a few tips ive picked up working with mine.
Khan
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  #23  
Old 2013-10-08, 9:38am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Thanks Khan and Rai Your guys tips are really helping me trouble shoot through this. I have been very busy with my other job (dog grooming) and family, but I will get out to the studio sometime later in the weak to check for the flow. Thanks again deb t
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  #24  
Old 2013-10-09, 12:16pm
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Ok checked some fittings and it looks like the flow is going everywhere but through the quick connect or whip. So I disconnected the copper fitting that screws into the bottom and it feels like I am getting air flow out of tubing. So I will be looking to bypass the quick connect. Going to follow the instructions in this link as soon as I get the ok from a licensed gas fitter, my husband.
http://www.fultra.net/_tutorials/HomefillOutput.pdf
http://www.talkglass.com/forum/showt...ill-stopped-up
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Last edited by deb tarry; 2013-10-09 at 12:40pm.
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  #25  
Old 2013-10-09, 12:30pm
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Leave it disconnected and turn it on, it should build to 2000 PSI very quickly and the full light should come on. If not then it is not building to 2000 PSI for some reason.
When I set mine up, I removed the quick disconnect & replaced it with an adaptor inside the Homefill and connected the HP hose right to that.

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Old 2013-10-10, 8:19am
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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So I left the whip off and the fill light did not come off and in reading Khans info again I realized that the air coming out is not pressurized very much. Its coming out but not that strong. took connection off some of the brass boxes and could hear the air being swished back and forth except for the last one that feeds into the the whip. going to look into what this does or doesn't do. Any ideas? could the wires that attach to the solenoid looking thing be on backwards? anyone know what that thing does could it be broken?
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Old 2013-10-10, 9:18am
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Deb, i'm curious how often you ran your homefill and how many hours on it when it shat the bed?
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Old 2013-10-10, 9:57am
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deb tarry, did your homefill work at all... i mean was it working at one time? If it was then it cant be the wires are reversed or something like that cause it wouldnt have worked before.
So when you take the whip off your tank what do you feel comeing out the end of it? I really dont think its your quick connect those things are pretty reliable. And remember if you bypass the quickconnect you are not going to have the check valve that is inside it.... that means air can flow backwards into your homefill when you turn it off. So just be aware that it does have a good check valve inside it.
I did that... bypassed the quickconnect.... when i would turn off the homefill i would hear the air comming out of the smallest cylinder. And if i left it like that all my oxy would just leak out backwards. Anyway you will have to put in some kind of check valve if you take out that quickconnect. And it has to rated for at least 2000 lbs.

Khan
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  #29  
Old 2013-10-10, 11:39am
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He was using it for over a year before the issue.

I just disconnect the fill hose from my manifold when I'm done filling the tanks but a check valve would prevent pressure loss also.
It sounds like a check valve is not seating properly.
It will only pressurize your tank to the pressure of the best seated ball valve... IF you hear air going back and forth there is a problem as air should only flow one direction...

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  #30  
Old 2013-10-10, 2:37pm
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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I had the home fill working for almost two years and it ran constantly at least for three to four days a week sometimes more. I would use up the oxygen then (leaving the home fill running as I worked)then leave it running all night and the next day work again. The tank would be around 1500 lbs and go down to 200 or 300 lbs. So it has really paid for its self and can't complain but it would be nice not to have to buy another one.
So if a ball valve is not seated properly can I get it unstuck buy tapping the brass housing?
Also if anyone is willing to pm me their phone number and time that they can be reached at the number so my husband can talk to them and get some info on trouble shooting I would sure appreciate it.
Good point about check valve I was wondering where that was hiding.
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