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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2013-01-14, 9:43am
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Default Coil Potting

I've just started coil potting some disks, bases for small sculptures, and I'm having breakage issues. The disks are about the size of a quarter or a little larger. I'm thinking that I'm not getting them hot enough after I've constructed them. The breaks are across the diameter of the disk and some point follow one of the wraps for a ways. Any help is appreciated. I'm using Leprechaun for my coil pots.
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Hot glass does not crack.
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  #2  
Old 2013-01-14, 10:02am
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It sounds like you are not getting the coils melted in completely. Are you coiling on the end of a rod or a tube? Try it on a tube so that you can make a bubble which will help you to smooth out the walls then pop the end and flare it out.
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  #3  
Old 2013-01-14, 10:34am
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On the end of a rod or the equivalent there of.
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Hot glass does not crack.
Unless it is glowing and drippy, hot glass looks like cold glass.
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  #4  
Old 2013-01-14, 10:57am
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Ok so your problem is most likely what you said, not getting them hot enough.
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  #5  
Old 2013-01-14, 11:03am
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Thanks for the confirmation. I'm finding that boro color is a whole different beast even compared to boro clear. I wear flip up #3's over my ACE 202's just to reduce the brightness of boro color. And the stuff is stiff too!
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  #6  
Old 2013-01-14, 12:38pm
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Why not use a maria for a base instead of trying to coil a disk? I would coat an inch and a half or so of 10 or 12 mm clear with your color, gather and then press into a maria. If you press down on the top of the maria with a graphite marver as you flatten and spin it you will be able to make it much thinner. Then punty up to the bottom and burn off the clear rod leaving a small bump to use as an attachment spot for your sculpture.
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  #7  
Old 2013-01-14, 12:53pm
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That is a much better idea, if I had wanted a clear base that is probably the way I would have tried in the first place. I could make the bases in advance and keep them in the kiln.
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  #8  
Old 2013-01-14, 3:42pm
deb tarry deb tarry is offline
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Don't forget to leave a 'little tit' in the centre and on the top side to add you stem to. You will get a nicer join if you heat the bump or tit the same as you stem tip and they will flow together better as well as giving a smother joint.
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  #9  
Old 2013-01-14, 8:46pm
drew1492 drew1492 is offline
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Do you have your outerfire on? I have mine on for coil pots they melt in nicer and it is much quicker.
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  #10  
Old 2013-01-15, 4:52am
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No I don't I'll have to try that as well.
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Hot glass does not crack.
Unless it is glowing and drippy, hot glass looks like cold glass.
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  #11  
Old 2013-01-15, 11:41am
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Coiled discs like that will likely always be vulnerable to cracking unless they're welded in very well. The same goes for a hollow vessel. It may not be possible to get the look you want AND 100% crack stability. I wish I had a better answer. I know some of our boro people make beads this way, perhaps they have some input...

BTW, that's not what I think of when you say "coil potting", this is. I've always felt that coil potting forms a hollow vessel, just as in ceramics work. If you wanted the 'look' of a coiled or spiral texture on a hollow vessel, you can use a grooved marver. I don't know how to accomplish that with a disc however, though it may be possible - just trying to spark some brainstorming here.

A couple other suggestions:

Find or create your own spiral stamp from metal (brass being commonly used for glass work)

Build your spiral bases from latticino cane to achieve the spiral look, but melt in completely to avoid the cracking issue.

Hope some of this is of use to you in your predicament!
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  #12  
Old 2013-01-17, 7:09am
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Roy: I've been racking my brain since I posted and it finally spit out the name of the person I was going to suggest that you contact. VAL LEWIS...

Here is an example of the boro spiral discs she makes

Maybe she can help you to achieve what you truly desire.
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  #13  
Old 2013-01-17, 10:16am
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Thanks for the link Chris.
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Hot glass does not crack.
Unless it is glowing and drippy, hot glass looks like cold glass.
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  #14  
Old 2013-01-20, 4:10am
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Thanks for the nod Chris! I wish I could say there is some deep secret I use to make my spiral discs, but truly, there is not. I make a few together on the same mandrel, working on each a bit, going back and flame-striking, sort of bouncing around between them all, keeping them all relatively warm, and then popping them right into the kiln.
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  #15  
Old 2013-01-20, 5:55am
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Coil potting a clear disk is one thing, it's the color that I have problems with. I think it's because boro color is so much stiffer and doesn't melt in as well.
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Hot glass does not crack.
Unless it is glowing and drippy, hot glass looks like cold glass.
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  #16  
Old 2013-01-20, 9:28am
LarryC LarryC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonharper View Post
Coil potting a clear disk is one thing, it's the color that I have problems with. I think it's because boro color is so much stiffer and doesn't melt in as well.
If you are leaving the coiled shape in between wraps it is a very stressy profile. I would spend quite a bit of time gently heating the finished coil right before boxing to equalize the heat across that disk and then anneal for longer than you normally do.
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