Mandrels-welding rods ok or not?

ZimmyNZoezMom · #1 2006-12-12, 8:49pm

From everything I've read, as long as I ask for the right kind of rods in a local welding establishment, I should be able to cut them into mandrels, right? I mean 316L for soft glass or even 308L as long as they are TIG rods they should be ok? My instructor seems to think they may not be:

"Gina,

Welding rods are fine if you are sure they're 100% steel. Most have some copper in them which makes the bead stick. You can cut them down and then grind them smooth. That's too much of a pain for me."

So being afraid to buy something useless, I'm guessing I'll just pay more and buy ready cut mandrels. But just for my reference, are they 100% stainless steel?

Thanks!!!
Gina

Glassgoodies · #2 2006-12-12, 8:54pm

Ask for 308L or 316L Tig rod and you will be fine.

squid · #3 2006-12-12, 8:58pm

It is SO much cheaper to buy the 316L TIG and cut them yourself! Definitely the way to go.

Dale M. · #4 2006-12-12, 9:39pm

Definitely 308L or 316L "stainlerss steel filler rod".... Either one will perform about the same....

Dale

FourTailsLampwork · #5 2006-12-12, 10:02pm

That's what I use and they are fine; get the 316L filler ss--it is heavier than the 308.

I don't even grind them down unless the burr at the end makes my bead stick.

RSimmons · #6 2006-12-13, 6:54am

I'd wonder about what else your instructor doesn't know about.

R

Emily · #7 2006-12-13, 9:54am

I don't understand the copper reference, either.

Hold out for the 316 if possible. I've got some 308 now and am having bending problems, but I'll admit that I'm tough on mandrels. I make big honking beads and use presses. People who are gentler might never notice a difference. I was surprised to notice a difference, but I do.

Whether you have a bur on the end that creates a problem may depend on how you cut the mandrels. The latest batch that I'm working on was cut by a friend's father using some kind of saw, and has some seriously nasty burs. (I'm guessing he took a whole fistful of rods and sawed them at once.) But hey, he cut them instead of me having to do it, so no complaints. If I'm doing it, I use bolt cutters.

It's cheaper to buy welding rod and cut them yourself, but less of a PITA to buy them pre-cut and finished. It's your call whether it's worth it to you.

SteveWright · #8 2006-12-13, 12:19pm

The Stainless Steel welding rods are easily cut with bolt cutters. If there is a Harbor Freight in your area you can pick a pair up on the cheap. Search HarborFreight.com and search for bolt cutters They have good sales on them all of the time. Print out the page with the sale, and the store will honor the price.

Right now they have 18" bolt cutters on sale for $6.99. If you go for a smaller pair, just make sure they are adjustable. Look for a hex-head machine screw sticking out of the side.

If you are looking for 3/32 rods, you get about 14 pieces to the pound. After cutting off the mashed ID section, I cut mine into 3 mandrels. As the mandrels suffer damage, there is room to nip off the damaged area to make a shorter, but usable mandrel.

Steve

ZimmyNZoezMom · #9 2006-12-13, 1:00pm

That's kinda what I thought, but she gets me all confused! Thank you to my own world of Lampworking knowledge that I'd be led astray without!!! It's so awesome to be able to get a 2nd opinion!!!

Gina