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Boro Room -- For Boro-related tips, techniques, and questions.

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  #1  
Old 2013-09-08, 5:34am
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Default Problems with vessles and such.

Recently I've started to foray into blown boro vessles and christmas balls. Besides the learning curve, my one major issue is that when I crack the punty off the piece the piece breaks, I'm using 4 and 5 mm rods for punties. I've tried to not get my punties as hot but then the piece falls to the bench before I can get the tubing flame cut from the other end. I'm thinking that I need to use hot fingers instead of a punty, is that the right way to go or is there a skill I need to master?
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  #2  
Old 2013-09-08, 5:46am
gmarv gmarv is offline
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might want to try putting on the punty as a hot seal and when you are done just fire cut it off and remove the excess material.
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  #3  
Old 2013-09-08, 6:00am
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Won't I still need hot fingers to hold on to the piece while I flame cut the punty and remove the excess?
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Hot glass does not crack.
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  #4  
Old 2013-09-08, 6:06am
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Hot dog tongs work great! The hinged plyer like ones with square ring type tips
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  #5  
Old 2013-09-08, 6:07am
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Or you can get hot fingers from Devardi for like $10!
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  #6  
Old 2013-09-08, 6:11am
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I will watch to see how others reply, too. I saw someone on a video get the punty end almost white hot and then press it quickly against a marver to suck some heat out, then touch to your hot object. I have found that helpful. For vessels that have some weight I'm more comfortable using hot fingers but I don't have the right kind so need to get another one. For me it becomes a dance and I just have to go with what's best at the moment.

But what I really want to say is to wear a leather apron. I got one from Harbor Freight. It sat on the back of my chair for years until last month. Now I wear it Every time I torch. Just one big red hot marble snapping off the punty and landing on my inner thigh was enough. And then last week something snapped and went flying. When it snapped it cut my finger and I had to go get stitches. That object rolled off the apron instead of me, thank you!

I don't make many ornaments but also had the issue of the glass being so thin it cracks at the punty. I guess a video might help.

I would think hot dog tongs would really suck the heat out and you'd get cracking.

I've seen where someone made hot fingers by bending a coat hanger. I made one for marbles and it worked ok. Maybe you could try that until you get something better.
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Last edited by Rose; 2013-09-08 at 6:17am.
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  #7  
Old 2013-09-08, 6:17am
gmarv gmarv is offline
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depends, on christmas tree ornaments i will seal a handle to the end of the loop with a cold seal. cold seals can be tricky heat both pieces up and take them out of the flame and wait just a second as you watch the color start to leave the glass stick them togather. there is a point where the seal will hold until it is schocked with a slight rap on something hard. then just firepolish the loop. on other things i do use the hot fingers. hope what i,m saying makes sense.

i think the reason your cold seal causes the piece to crack is the stress in the glass where the cold seal is. you could try annealing it before you remove the cold seal.
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  #8  
Old 2013-09-08, 6:23am
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On ornaments I've been afraid they will blow up. Sometimes I get a little hole by the loop and if it's small enough it's ok but usually it gets too big. Does anyone know if they might pop? I bet Candace has all the answers if she pops in here.
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  #9  
Old 2013-09-08, 6:25am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmarv View Post
depends, on christmas tree ornaments i will seal a handle to the end of the loop with a cold seal. cold seals can be tricky heat both pieces up and take them out of the flame and wait just a second as you watch the color start to leave the glass stick them togather. there is a point where the seal will hold until it is schocked with a slight rap on something hard. then just firepolish the loop. on other things i do use the hot fingers. hope what i,m saying makes sense.

i think the reason your cold seal causes the piece to crack is the stress in the glass where the cold seal is. you could try annealing it before you remove the cold seal.
Okay Ithink I understand. Hot seal onto the bottom of the ornament. Then remove teh blow tube and make my loop. Cold seal onto the loop and flame cut the punty and remove the excess. Knock off the punty and flame polish if necessary.
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Hot glass does not crack.
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  #10  
Old 2013-09-08, 6:32am
gmarv gmarv is offline
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yeah thats what i am trying to say, you should also try using the hot fingers to hold it you might like it better. to each his own. thats just the way i do it.
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  #11  
Old 2013-09-08, 6:51am
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My tubing work sucks, so I took Shawn Tuckers class at GSW.
Yes at some point you are going to need grabbers of some sort, hot fingers, tongs, etc. Punty up to the non tube side (bottom) cut your top, then use the grabbers and tap the punty not the piece, if it doesn't come off easy then flame cut it, if it is the bottom of the vessel you will not see it anyway
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  #12  
Old 2013-09-08, 7:02am
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I had been making my punties round edged and then pointed. Always had problems. I have just learned that the edge of the punty should be a clean, flat edge. Heat the spot (not the whole piece) where you want to put the punty and the clean glass edge of the punty, pull out of the flame, count 3 seconds, then gently place (don't mush) the two together twisting the punty slightly. This will take practice. If it helps, you can rest one hand to help guide them together. If it doesn't stick, then snap off the rounded edge of the punty and try again.
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