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Studio -- Show us your studio setup

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  #31  
Old 2008-06-24, 9:55am
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Wonderful! Thanks for sharing this (I want one!).
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  #32  
Old 2008-06-24, 5:18pm
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Wow! I'm looking forward to that new post! Fantastic job! And it is so nice to see such love - you both are blessed!
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  #33  
Old 2008-07-14, 1:52pm
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Raymond,
Could you tell me the dimensions of the table? It looks fantastic and I am going to attempt something similar but curious as to height, depth and length.
Thanks
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  #34  
Old 2008-07-14, 8:01pm
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mmm very pretty.

Don't really understand the whole plastic mat idea, as it smells AWFUL when you get hot glass on it. Also, why is there a gap in the steel in the back and why did you paint it white when it is easier to see the flame with a darker color to the back?
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  #35  
Old 2008-07-15, 5:21am
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Hey Folks,

sorry for the delay in the bead table tutorial, but I've been SUPER BUSY these last few weeks.

I check my email every once in a while, and I'll even give a quick response to some of the posts...but I have almost no life sometimes.

My DWP is sometimes the only breath of fresh air I get. But I've started the bead table tutorial, and it'll be completed (and posted) in the near future.

Tiggy-Bubba...for the table top I used a 3/4" inch thick, 4' foot x 8' foot piece of plywood. But listen to my madness...

I already knew what I was going to build...but it also had to meet certain requirements.

a) It had to fit in the location we planned for it.

b) I knew it was gonna have a tile top. But I also knew that I didn't want to be cutting tile all day.

So here's what I did. I went with my Darling Wifey-Poo, and she picked out the tile she wanted. (Since there are different styles of tile, and tile come in different sizes, this was the very first step). Once she had picked it out, I took the measurements of the tile pieces, measured everything out (taking into consideration the 1/4" inch spaces between the tiles for the grout), and cut the plywood to a size that would enable me to lay out the pieces WITHOUT having to cut any pieces of tile.

Did yall follow that?

So if you look at the table top, every single piece of tile is complete...and the table looks "balanced" and neat.

As for the table dimensions: it is approximately 3' foot deep x 7' foot long x 29.5" inches tall. (Not including the 3/4" inch trim I placed along it's borders). The original 4' foot depth was just waaaaay too much. (It made me feel like I was back at the welding shop, or back in chem lab, or in some type of classroom setting where someone would be sitting across from me). The table was also lowered to about desk height, which is awesomely comfortable. We can use any type of chair...and not have to resort to a "totem pole height" stool. (In the end I chose to build her a custom, matching, bench).

When the table was 3" inches higher, I swear, it had a totally different look. (See the first pictures at the beginning of this thread). It looked like a work table that belonged in a garage. But once I lowered it, it took on a totally different look. It looked very...umm..."warm," and right in place in our dining room. And since DWP sits kinda low, the range hood is away from her head.

If you look at the pictures, the torch tip is approximately 1.5" inches away from the edge of the hood. Which is OK, as the flame itself is entirely under the hood. And like I mentioned earlier, we have massive air velocity. (Sucking power). I spoke with Mike, crunched some numbers, and I ended-up reducing my duct tubes from 8" inches to 7" inches. This increased the air velocity, so our system is now a sucking monster...and it is still pushing 132 CFM of air per square foot.

Hmmm. If you're like me, you're probably wondering, "So what in tar-nations is 132 CFM's of air per square foot"?

Well, using my anemometer (Yea...I'm a long distance shooter) it is sucking air at 30 MPH!! Actually, ths picture was taken BEFORE I sealed all the duct tube connections with tape and paint. It is NOW sucking at 31 MPH, exactly. (Sealing everything made a noticable difference).





That is "A LOT" of air movement...and I am still pushing 132 CFM of air per square foot. My DWP is totally safe against fumes, and totally safe if she should choose to use enamels, frit, or like-sized particulates. (Having the original 8" inch duct tubing reduced the air velocity by approximately 3 MPH - which some might say is "not much". But when you feel the difference, it is a whole lot)!!!

Sorry for rambling. But I thought you'd like to see what CFM looks like when translated to wind speed. It kinda puts things in perspective.

Amethyst-Briolette...the reason I placed the runner in front of the table was to protect the carpet. I built everything to sit "flat-slab-dead-center" in the middle of our dining room. So, of course, everything also had to look nice and presentable. Plywood, or some other surface, would not meet our criteria. (But "Hey"...it's OK if yall want to use it. Go for it). But in the end, it's better to speckle the runner with "shocky's," rather than the carpet.

As for why the open space under the rear and side baffles?

"I-ohn-know"?

No reason.

Maybe it's cuz I'm kinda claustrophobic, and I subconsiously did that. It actually "felt better" designing it with a little open space. And after crunching some ventilation numbers, I was assured that DWP's safety was not at risk (IN ANY MANNER)...so I went ahead with it.

And very, very, lastly...the table in the above photo's is not finished. The white was because it looks clean and professional. (Can't have "ghetto steel tubing" in the dining room)! And as for not being able to see the flame...well...we purchased an EXTRA piece of tile. Hmmmmm...wonder where we decided to place that when we purchased it?

OK, that's it. I had an 22 hour day, it's 0545 in derr morning, and I'm just getting home.

All I'm thinking about is laying next to derr DWP's warm bod, and hugging my pillow.

Sorry for rambling, but there's always a reason behind my madness. (Well...most of the time there is).

G'Nite, yall.

Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz zzzzzzzzz.

In Christ: Raymond

Last edited by RaymondMillbrae; 2008-07-15 at 2:57pm.
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  #36  
Old 2008-07-15, 8:31am
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Thanks Raymond. I really appreciate your response. I am thinking of shrinking mine down to 6' just to fit in my space but couldnt tell the height from the pics. This helps a lot!
Leslie
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  #37  
Old 2008-07-15, 12:55pm
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TiggyBubba,

make sure you do all the proper ventilation calculations!!!!!

Remember, if you reduce the duct tube diameter, you will also reduce the CFM of air volume moved.

So if you reduce the duct tube size, MAKE SURE that the CFM of air movement is still within limits to keep you safe.

DO NOT sacrifice air velocity for CFM of air movement, if it will drop the CFM of air per square feet to an unsafe level!!!!!!!!!!! (I cannot emphasize this enough).

You need to do all the proper calculations before attempting to play with the air velocity. (Reducing the duct tube size, or purchasing a larger/smaller fan). But if you HAVE done all the calculations, and you deem that you can play with the duct tube size to increase the air velocity while keeping the CFM of air per square foot at a safe level...then knowing that you can do this, is a great tool to have at you disposal.

One last thing. Make sure that your fan has the power/umff to be able to handle this added stress factor. Some of the weaker fans may overwork themselves and burn out. I know the Can-Fan's, and the Elicent fans, have the "UMFF" needed for this added stress. But I'm not sure about the other ones.

Please remember...the name of the game is S-A-F-E-T-Y!!! So make sure you are getting the proper amount of CFM of air per square foot for the set-up you have.

I reiterate, crunch those numbers and do the proper ventilation calculations. I made my air velocity change, ONLY after I saw that I would still have 132 CFM of air per square feet.

Be safe.

In Christ: Raymond

PS: Darn...I'm still tired. After rereading your post, I realized that you said SIX FEET (not 6" inches)- and were talking about your table dimensions, and NOT your duct tube size.

Duhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!! Ha ha ha ha ha.

But I'll leave the info there in case someone may need the clarification. I'm such a dork!

Last edited by RaymondMillbrae; 2008-07-15 at 1:09pm.
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  #38  
Old 2008-07-15, 2:22pm
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LOL Raymond. Thats ok. I redid the plans and will add another 6" (thats inches) to the table length. I want it as big as possible and still allow for flow around the room. I notice that you added another set of legs in the middle. Is that because you have the hood resting on the table top? I plan on hanging my hood from the ceiling from chains so it will be to the table surface but not on the table surface.

I will most likely be getting a Vortex fan, canadian made and perfect for this application. 790 cfm's. The ducting is 10" but will be putting a reducer on to take it to 8".

I want to thank you again for sharing your experiences and discoveries....
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  #39  
Old 2008-07-15, 2:46pm
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TiggyBubba,

invest a little more, and get a little more quality than the Vortex fan. (My personal opinion).

The Elicent fan I have is also made in Canada, so give them a looksy. They are a much better grade of fan. Call the dealer (the fan resaler, and not the cannibis growing dealer), and ask for their professional opinion.

By the way, I have heard a few, not so good, things about Vortex fans...both from horticulturists, as well as Mike Aurelius.

And in closing, don't worry so much about "...the flow around the room". Just concentrate on the intake from to torch to the hood, and make sure you have the appropriate CFM of air per square foot...and all the other stuff will take care of itself.

You can have a work table that is 50' foot long, and 20' foot deep, but it doesn't matter. What matters is the torch/hood/ventilation areas! (And don't forget about the make-up air).

As for the center support legs, that's what they are - center SUPPORT legs.

After finishing the table, I realized that the tile was a lot heavier than originally anticipated. And upon looking closer, my 6-million dollar bionic eye noticed a tad of "sag" in the center of the table.

This would not do.

So I took the time to do it right the first time, and made the needed reinforcement. (Without the center support legs, my DWP would not have been able to stand in the center of the table, like seen in the earlier photo's).

OK, that's it.

Toodle-Loo.

In Christ: Raymond

Last edited by RaymondMillbrae; 2008-07-15 at 3:10pm.
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  #40  
Old 2008-07-15, 6:34pm
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Hi Raymond,
I have not heard of that brand of fan, I will research them tonight. When I am talking about flow, its not air flow but the flow of the room. This will be a multi purpose room with 2 tables and so I need to have them both accessible and useable.

Can you be more specific about the issues with vortex fans? I have not heard anything bad about them and I thought they were recommended.

I have also included a drawing of the side view of my soon to be hood. I have a solid back and side baffles down to the table .

Thoughts? Concerns?
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Last edited by tiggybubba; 2008-07-15 at 6:41pm.
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  #41  
Old 2008-07-15, 6:52pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaymondMillbrae View Post
If you look at the pictures, the torch tip is approximately 1.5" inches away from the edge of the hood. Which is OK, as the flame itself is entirely under the hood.
Raymond,

Have you seen the August 2007 issue of The Annealer magazine? There is an article with images showing the thermal plume and how it's affected (actually deflected) by the placement of a bead in the flame. The recommended position of the front of your torch is over the center of the torch body, otherwise your hood is NOT catching all of the thermal plume (as in your case).

And if you are going to recommend to someone to reduce the ducting from 10" to 8", do you have the formula to show exactly what percentage are you lowering the efficiency of the fan? Leslie/tiggybubba's fan is 790 CFM which means that her hood shouldn't be larger than 24" x 38" (without baffles/enclosures). . . that's WITHOUT reduction from 10" to 8" ducting and/or bends in her ducting.
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  #42  
Old 2008-07-15, 7:19pm
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Hayley,
My fan is 790 (I think, havent bought it yet) and my hood opening is 24x36. It does have side baffles and a solid back so it is quite contained. I think I will move this discussion over to the saftey room with a full explanation of how I will duct it. This is taking away from Raymonds DWP's beautiful table and I dont want to hijack the thread. Come see what I post later. I welcome all opinions and advise.

PS Ray did not recommend to me to reduce the ducting. I was just going by what I wanted to do.
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  #43  
Old 2008-07-15, 9:08pm
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TiggyBubba,

the Vortex line of fans are good. And many folks rave about it's 10-year warranty, which is great. Actually...that's an awesome warranty. But I have also heard folks mention it's noise output.

I have never owned an inline centrifugal fan before, and the Elicent is the only one I've ever purchased. But I went with the Elicent for two reasons:

1) A few different places had comments that the Elicent was quieter than the Vortex and two other compatible fans.

2) I have heard that the motors of the Elicent fan were sturdier, and ran "stronger/truer" than other compatible fans. This is why they might run a tad slower than other fans (lower CFM), but will stay closer to the advertised CFM better than the other brands while pushing through various lengths of ducting.

This is what I have read. And this is why I went with the Elicent AXC 200B. (I also had my eye on the Vortex fan. But then I was swayed towards the Can-Fan..and ultimately the Elicent). But you can make your own choice, and then voice your review/opinion. Who knows? I may be wrong.

Here is a link to a comment Mike Aurelius made about the Vortex fan. (CLICK HERE).

Hayley,

I have never "recommended" that Leslie - or anyone else - reduce their duct tubing. Why do you keep inferring that I am doing so? I am only PRESENTING INFORMATION for folks to consider. Mike Aurelius has helped me to understand a lot of these concepts, which I am just passing on to other folks. It made sense to me, so now I am just passing on the information for others to read. Ultimately it is the end-users decision...after they have made an informed and calculated decision.

I see that you are adamant that duct tubing should never be reduced. (Or at least it sounds that way to me. Especially when you told another reader that you were glad that they didn't reduce their duct tube size...cuz you would have looked up other posts by "professionals" to disuade them). And I am sure there are many other folks that agree with you. (Which is totally cool). But I do not follow your posts to debunk your advise. If you are from the camp that thinks "reducing the duct tubing size to increase air velocity is taboo"...that's OK with me. Those are your opinions. But I see other factors to consider. And I would like to share them, and pass them on to others to consider as well...WHILE ALWAYS STRESSING SAFETY. You never hear me slamming it down someones throat, at the cost of reducing their CFM's to unsafe levels. Do you? Afterall, isn't SAFETY what proper ventilation is all about?

As for the formulas. Click HERE to go to Mike's site to check them out. But I am sure you would need to be a lot more specific about Leslie's set-up to get the proper answers. (Type of duct tubing [metal smooth walled, etc..], total duct tubing distance, how many 90 degree bends, width and height of hood, CFM of fan, etc...).

I am definitely not at the level of Mike Aurelius when it comes to calculating static pressures, velocity pressures, loss factors, etc, etc... But then again, he is the professional in this field, and I am not. But if you want to know how to penetrate a high security safe (like a Fichet-Bauche Chambord TRTL-16X6)...give me a call for an opening price. Or if you need to originate a high security transponder key for a Ferrari...drop me a line for a quote. These are my fields of experience. But if I want to know how to make the best ventilation system for my wife, and if I want to know all the options and why they may play a factor in my final decision, then I'll contact a professional who has designed ventilation system software for other folks. And Mike was that guy.

He was the one who informed me about air velocity, and how it plays a role in ventilation systems. He did NOT "recommend" that I reduce my duct tubing size to increase the air velocity. But he did explain the concept to me, which I totally understood. The final decision was mine. And he even stated that I had a very nice set-up.

Anyhoo...Mike was super cool with me. And I really appreciated his "right hand of fellowship" when he helped me to crunch all those ventilation numbers. Especially since he didn't know me from Adam. (Kudos, Mike).

Yuck. I have a bitter taste in my mouth now.

I think I'll close the door on this thread, and start a new one when I post the final pictures of my DWP's bead table.

Asta la vista, baby.

In Christ: Raymond

PS: THESE GUYS have good prices on Vortex fans. And THIS GUY is who I purchased my AXC 200B from. (He gave me the best deal).

PSS: I would LOVE to see the article in the Annealer Mag, but I don't subscribe to it. Right now we only subscribe to Glassworks and The Flow. But if you could send me a link..."Me love you long time".

Last edited by RaymondMillbrae; 2008-07-15 at 9:31pm.
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  #44  
Old 2008-07-15, 9:17pm
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Oh Raymond
I am so sorry that this thread turned on you. Thats why I posted my questions in the safety forum and invited anyone to continue to post in there.

I apologize for hijacking the thread. I never meant to do that. You have been very generous with your information, always humerous and a delight to read.

Again my humble apologies.
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  #45  
Old 2008-07-15, 9:23pm
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Don't worry, Leslie.

You're fine in my book. As a matter of fact, I have you right at the front of my Crayola box...right in between the pink and baby blue.

I also harbor no ill will towards anyone.

Different folks think differently. That's a freedom we as Americans have.

Nuff said. I'm done here.

In Christ: Raymond
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  #46  
Old 2008-07-15, 9:54pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaymondMillbrae View Post
I see that you are adamant that duct tubing should never be reduced.
I am not adamant that ducting should never be reduced. I would like to know how to calculate the final CFM of a certain fan when such action is taken so that someone reading your post advocating air velocity would know the consequences of using a reducer on a system.

When I read that Leslie is planning to reduce her ducting based on your post regarding air velocity but without any notation of the percentage of CFM reduction, and her fan being only 790 CFM, I am very concerned it would render the fan ineffective with her hood size.

All I am doing here is to make sure that Leslie's system is adequate, I am glad Leslie is posting this in the safety section of the forum.
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  #47  
Old 2008-07-15, 9:57pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiggybubba View Post
Oh Raymond
I am so sorry that this thread turned on you. Thats why I posted my questions in the safety forum and invited anyone to continue to post in there.

I apologize for hijacking the thread. I never meant to do that. You have been very generous with your information, always humerous and a delight to read.

Again my humble apologies.
Leslie, it is not your fault so please do not feel sorry. I wouldn't have posted except when you said you were going to use a reducer and your fan was only 790 CFM, I had to question what it would mean to your system for it concerned your health and safety. . .
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  #48  
Old 2008-07-15, 11:59pm
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This was posted by Mike Aurelius:

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...90&postcount=8
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeAurelius View Post
Ok -- your problem is manyfold --
2) You are reducing the size of the duct right at the hood . . . . This causes severe reduction in airflow. Ducts should never be reduced in size in the direction of the airflow, they should always increase in size if necessary.
The person started this thread had the same GlassCraft hood as I do and used a reducer to change from the 10" fan to 8" ducting . . . comments from Mike Aurelius and co.:
http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/ne...reply&p=861958
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeAurelius View Post
Here are the issues that are causing this system to not work, besides the CFM issue:

2. The duct absolutely has to be the same diameter all the way through the system. Reducing the size of the duct from 10" to 8" reduces the duct area by slightly more than 28" square inches. This causes huge amounts of back pressure.
http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...3&postcount=12

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeAurelius View Post
As far as your question about duct work sizing - are you asking if it is ok to (for example) run 8" to the fan, then after the fan run 10"? The quick and dirty answer is yes. You can always INCREASE the size of the ducting in the direction of the airflow, but you should never DECREASE the size of the ducting in the direction of the air flow. (caps for emphasis).
From bhhco:
http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...51&postcount=8
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhhco View Post
Reducing the vent pipe from 10" to 8", essentially makes it a funnel, and results in a 33% surface area reduction... and thus significantly reduces the air flow. . . .
ETA: This is what Dale said in Leslie's thread – if one's actually fan size is in line with the smaller ducting AND the duct run is short, AND a test of your system proves that it's working effectively, then it's fine.

http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/sh...10&postcount=6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale M. View Post
Fans have a outside diameter that are dictated by the construction methods of the fan, this is not necessarily the size of the duct required for fan to operates efficiently.... Fans operate against what is called "static pressure" or resistance to flow... Long duct runs have more static pressure that short runs, small diameter duct runs have more static pressure than larger diameters duct runs.... In the end, if you have fan that is operating efficiently against low static pressures and a test of your ventilation proves it is working effectively you are good....

Dale
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Last edited by Hayley; 2008-07-16 at 9:10am. Reason: edited to add
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Old 2008-08-02, 11:27am
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Hi, I love your handiwork. I know that your wife is really enjoying her new table. Can't wait to see your final final.
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Old 2008-12-01, 10:23am
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Hi Raymond,

Long time no talk to. Where do you keep the propane? I didn't see it in the pictures. I will be doing something similar with my ventilation. Running it through the open patio door. I will have to run the propane through the same way. Except I will have to disconnect it after each use so that I can secure the door when not in use. Not crazy about the idea. But I am addicted to the glass.
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Old 2008-12-01, 2:24pm
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Hi Raymond, Thanks for taking us through your ventilation/studio setup venture. Very nicely done. I have one comment. Katie, PLEASE< PLEASE< PLEASE wear shoes when you're torching ~~~ Unless your DH likes to suck burned toes !!!
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Old 2008-12-01, 3:11pm
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What a nice nice set up!
I love it, thank you for sharing, Raymond!

.
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Old 2008-12-16, 12:12am
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Raymond & Katie, wonderful setup Just another item on the honey-do-list... er... make that the 1st item on the list, when hubby gets back from the box. Mahalo and Merry Christmas!
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Old 2008-12-16, 6:26am
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Hey, folks,

sorry for not replying, or finishing the thread on the making of my DWP's table...but I'm all over the place as it is. The bead table project has been finished for a while now, and that project is now behind me. (That chapter is closed).

But here are a few, OLDER, pictures. The current table is a little different from the pictures posted below, as I have added a bunch of other stuff to make DWP's beading experience more comfortable. (Like lazy susan's, glass rod dividers, better electrical, etc...).

Below is the table with the rack I built her. I designed the rack to hold DWP's wire craft thingys, her hand tools, and her spools of thread and wire. As you can see from the angled view, the rack was designed to NOT fall forward or backwards. (It's rock solid).












Notice I also built her a custom-matching bench. We went to a fabric store together, she picked out the material, and we came home to make the cushion to protect her bootay. Needless to say, it came out pretty nice. We even had a bit left over, so she made elbow pads with it. (The bench is actually a bit lower now, as we found it to be a bit too high for comfortable torching).







And BeyBey....as for the placement of the propane...it's outside on our patio.

If you look at the earlier pictures, you will see that the duct tubing and the propane hose goes out the sliding glass door, and onto our patio. And once it's on our patio, the propane tank was placed within a milk container to prevent it tipping over and damaging the regulator.





Oh yea...in case you haven't seen it yet...I also built a custom "block" to prevent the fumes from coming back in while DWP is beading.

It is made of wood and Pexiglas, with weatherstripping along it's sides to seal it tight when the sliding glass doors are closed.





There is soooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much more to be said and explained, but it is 0525 in the morning, and I just got home from opening a burglarized safe. It's time to get to bed.

Hope that helped to explain some stuff.

I'll try to remember and take a picture of the finished product when I get a chance.

Till then, Toodle-Loo, folks.

In Christ: Raymond

Last edited by RaymondMillbrae; 2008-12-16 at 6:40am.
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  #55  
Old 2008-12-16, 11:50pm
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What a Great Job you did Raymond! Your Wife must be Very Happy!
It looks safe and clean. You should be Proud of that, again, Great Job!
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Old 2008-12-17, 8:15am
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Great work area...

Does your wife have any pictures of her work?
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Old 2008-12-18, 5:22pm
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Thanks, Mike.

And BeyBey, to be totally honest, my DWP is pretty shy, and she asked me not to post any pictures of her work yet.

She has only been torching for around a year now...but in my opinion, she rocks!

She not only does beadwork, but she's also an AWESOME wire worker.

I am a very creative person. And I usually get ideas from something I have seen...then add to it to create something that is unique to myself. But my DWP doesn't need inspiration. She can pretty much just sit down and make some incredibly cool stuff. (She usually carries around a small, blank, note pad to scribble her ideas on. And at times, she has woke-up from sleep, just to sketch something down that came to her in her sleep).

If you look closely, you MAY be able to see some of her work on that black rotating earring stand.

And "Yes"...she has sold many of her hand-made jewlery pieces. (Earrings, necklaces, and bracelets).

Thanks for asking.

Enjoy the pix.

In Christ: Raymond

Last edited by RaymondMillbrae; 2008-12-18 at 5:25pm.
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Old 2008-12-18, 5:42pm
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I have one suggestion and its for you DWP kiln. Wrap the handles in leather then they wont get too hot to open without a hot pad or something the thick leather works really really well.
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  #59  
Old 2008-12-18, 5:54pm
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Wow,

thanks.

The "leather wrap" on the kiln handle is a great idea. (I'm a leather worker as well).

I usually don't have a problem opening the handle when it's hot (calloused hands), but my DWP always uses an oven mitt. Ha ha ha. (I think it's kinda cute).

Good idea. I think I'll try that.

In Christ: Raymond
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Old 2008-12-19, 9:02am
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Very nice work area, and very well organized!
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