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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2011-11-08, 9:35pm
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Default Efettre silver plum

I have been trying to make silver plumb silver. All I can get is plumb. I have tried reducing and striking is there a trick to this. I would be gratefull if anyone has ideas.


Smeeth.
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  #2  
Old 2011-11-08, 9:51pm
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You need to turn your oxygen up.

Good luck
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  #3  
Old 2011-11-08, 9:51pm
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It works best in an oxygen-rich flame.
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Orange Cricket with 10L oxycon and NG
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  #4  
Old 2011-11-08, 10:15pm
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Thanks for the input ill try the blue flame in the morning. I love this forum you guys have saved me hundreds of hours of trial and error and wasted glass and swimming beads.

Smeeth
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  #5  
Old 2011-11-09, 5:55am
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It does not go really really silver. Its not like a silver glass silver. It's more a almost matte plum silver with striations of rainbows id the planets line up right. I believe that dark silver plum is known for having an easier/more predominant reaction, but I really like the light silver plum too there has been talk about going back and fourth between reduction and oxy flames to get the effect enhances. I don't know if it works or not. It's been a while since I played with mine. overall yes you need the neutral to oxy flame. Awesome stuff. Search the gallery for som pics. It's just beautiful!
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  #6  
Old 2011-11-09, 6:07am
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Pictures would be great if anyone has them. I've been thinking of getting some of this my next order, and would love to see a few beads that show it off.
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  #7  
Old 2011-11-09, 6:23am
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I like it as a base for Raku frit. Also, in dots made from stringer it will silver up.
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  #8  
Old 2011-11-09, 6:29am
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I use it for black lines in twisties and wig wags. I do more stringer work with it than bead bases.
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  #9  
Old 2011-11-09, 7:04am
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http://www.naosglass.com/2007sets/fu...eidoscopes.jpg

These are off amber's web site. She gets amazing color out of dsp!

This what it looks like if you work the snots out of it somehow... I get like 10% the color amber does!!!
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Last edited by jaci; 2011-11-09 at 7:07am.
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  #10  
Old 2011-11-09, 11:22am
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It seems to do more of the irrid/silver trick when it raised and not melted all the way in like a stringer, dot, or shard. There was also some talk over handpulled vs. machine, but I have never used the machine pulled so I'm not sure. -Echo
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  #11  
Old 2011-11-09, 12:09pm
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It is more like an oil slick result than a straight silver.
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  #12  
Old 2011-11-10, 12:09am
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I thought I read somewhere that the shiny finish wears off very easily and in some cases it even disappeared in the kiln. That's why I don't even bother with the color. Except it would make a great base color or in a mixed color twisty.
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  #13  
Old 2011-11-10, 12:21am
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yup, it works backwards - it webs nicely on ivory too
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  #14  
Old 2011-11-10, 12:24am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PerfectDeb View Post
yup, it works backwards - it webs nicely on ivory too
sounds pretty!
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  #15  
Old 2011-11-10, 3:42am
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I love it. also, it helps me if the bead is cooler and not glowing when you reintroduce it to the flame after shaping. LOVE it
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  #16  
Old 2011-11-10, 6:30pm
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Thanks Jaci! You beat me to it. I was going to mention Amber's work with dsp shards! I'm a fan of all her work as well

Duane

Quote:
Originally Posted by jaci View Post
http://www.naosglass.com/2007sets/fu...eidoscopes.jpg

These are off amber's web site. She gets amazing color out of dsp!

This what it looks like if you work the snots out of it somehow... I get like 10% the color amber does!!!
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  #17  
Old 2011-11-11, 12:23am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkFlowerBead View Post
I love it. also, it helps me if the bead is cooler and not glowing when you reintroduce it to the flame after shaping. LOVE it
= how you get the colors

Let it cool, bathe in flame > repeat. Work it like raku.

I honestly got much better color on a HH and much easier than on my other torches.

Edit to add, I've not had the metallic come off of any of my beads, I have a couple on my 'everyday' bracelet, I do know some were having issues with CIM gunmetal, but all reduced silver fades. Silver plum isn't reduced nor shiney. Just what I've found anyways.

Last edited by Ravenesque; 2011-11-11 at 12:26am.
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  #18  
Old 2011-11-11, 10:42am
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I love Dark Silver Plum.
I hoard the handpulled cause I don't get anything out of the machinepulled.
I'm working in a neutral flame and there's no big secret about this glass, just be patient and let it cool down and then reheat a few times.









Good luck!
Elke

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  #19  
Old 2011-11-11, 5:02pm
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nice beads. Still no silver yet. I'm on a minor with 5lpm oxycon. I believe I am using the machine pulled variety because it was cheaper....sigh.

Locococo that is exactly the look I wanted. so cool. Thanks again for the tips ill keep trying.

Smee
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  #20  
Old 2011-11-11, 5:37pm
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Wow! Great beads!!!
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  #21  
Old 2011-11-12, 12:30pm
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mr. smeeth - I am on a HH and when I'm done with my bead I flash it through the tip of the flame. I can see the "silver" come out as I'm doing it. keep going.
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  #22  
Old 2011-11-13, 6:45am
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Simple set. Dark Silver Plum and Strikingcolor glass
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  #23  
Old 2011-11-13, 7:39am
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I get it by toasting the bead like you would a marshmallow in the upper part of the flame.

-Donna
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Old 2011-11-14, 8:53am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimberly View Post
I have had the silver finish disappear when the bead was kept in a wooden box that had been treated with oil wood finish. Go figure. It disappeared wherever the bead touched the wood.
Ack...that's a shame. It really is beautiful with the rainbow of color you can get from it. Too bad it doesn't stay!
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  #25  
Old 2011-11-14, 9:50am
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I get really great silvered plum sheen from using the Vetrofond Purple Plum ODD. It ALWAYS silvers for me and I use it as a silvery accent with other purples I am working with in the bead. I haven't noticed it ever wear off either....
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  #26  
Old 2013-11-20, 5:32pm
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Has anyone purchased the hand-pulled Dark Silver Plum that is available now? Were you able to get oil-slick colors with it? Is any of the new stuff worth buying?

I've been so disappointed with my recent attempts with this color. I use a high-oxy flame with cycles of cooling and reheating. I can get the silverfish matte finish but no colors.
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  #27  
Old 2013-11-20, 9:08pm
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I always get the silver finish without even trying, but I've never had the oil slick, and have had the silver disappear and not come back when I had to do spot reheating for shaping. If it didn't have it when i put it into the kiln, it's usually there when it comes out. No idea what variety of sp and dsp I'm using though.
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  #28  
Old 2013-11-20, 9:12pm
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Mr. Smeeth, you didn't mention whether you are using Silver Plum or Dark Silver Plum. For me, the Dark is much easier to work than the light.

-Helene
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  #29  
Old 2013-11-20, 9:18pm
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I find it make great shards, and I always get an oil sheen effect when using it that way (I'm on a HH if that makes any diff to anyone).

Alli
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  #30  
Old 2013-11-20, 9:25pm
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I have the hand pulled dsp it can look like mercury glass.
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