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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2011-01-22, 2:15pm
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Default Question about copper green

Does anyone know how to achieve the luster on copper green consistently?
Mine are hit and miss (mostly miss), and usually the color I'm looking for is only at the mandrel on both ends.
I have tried reducing it to death AND not fiddling with it at all (make a spacer and into the kiln).
Any ideas?
(I have searched here and on WC, and the only thing I can find is how to "clean" them--)
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Old 2011-01-22, 2:50pm
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I'd be most interested in knowing this as well. Hope someone will tell us the best way to work this color.
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Old 2011-01-22, 2:50pm
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I've never been able to get the luster all over the bead with copper green unless I add a little silver leaf and/or reduction glass somewhere on the surface of the bead. If you do that, then reduce the heck out of it, usually the patina will uniformly cover the bead and stay through annealing.
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Old 2011-01-22, 2:56pm
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Thanks, Kim! I'm going to try that out tomorrow.
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Old 2011-01-22, 4:31pm
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I havent really used the copper green myself, and since Im a kind of newbie... would anyone care to post pics for me to see what is it that peeps are trying to achieve here?
Thanks!
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Old 2011-01-22, 5:04pm
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I can reduce it and get luster consistently only if I'm trying to avoid reducing it and getting luster. Irony is my name.

Seriously though, when I do get a reduction effect, I often get pitting. I wonder if I have a weird batch; it's old as the hills.
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  #7  
Old 2011-01-22, 5:22pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piakaven View Post
I havent really used the copper green myself, and since Im a kind of newbie... would anyone care to post pics for me to see what is it that peeps are trying to achieve here?
Thanks!
Here's one example. Normally Copper Green is a turquoise/sea green color, but it can be reduced (sometimes accidentally, sometimes intentionally) to kind of a sage green shimmery luster.

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Old 2011-01-22, 5:25pm
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I think it pitts easily with silver; otherwise, I don't have a problem with pitting (and my cg is really old, too).
I'm going to try Kim's approach tomorrow. Instead of silver leaf (I only have silver foil), I will be using a flake or 3 of reduction frit. <crossing fingers>
Pia, I PM'd you.
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Old 2011-01-22, 5:27pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluffroadglass View Post
Here's one example. Normally Copper Green is a turquoise/sea green color, but it can be reduced (sometimes accidentally, sometimes intentionally) to kind of a sage green shimmery luster.

<faint>
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  #10  
Old 2011-01-22, 5:27pm
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Lauren, FYI you can use silver foil, too -- foil or leaf, doesn't matter.
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Old 2011-01-22, 5:40pm
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I find the longer I leave it in the kiln to anneal at 950 the more it gets covered with the reduction.
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  #12  
Old 2011-01-22, 5:52pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasi View Post
I find the longer I leave it in the kiln to anneal at 950 the more it gets covered with the reduction.

Hi, Heather
My kiln is programmed from Arrow Springs to garage at 940--should I bump it up to 950?
So, the first beads in the kiln are the most reduced? Or, just let them garage for an hour or two before I start the ramp down cycle?
(sorry for asking so many questions).
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  #13  
Old 2011-01-22, 6:19pm
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I wonder if you could put charcoal in the kiln to create a somewhat uniform reduction atmosphere.
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  #14  
Old 2011-01-22, 6:40pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrissij View Post
I wonder if you could put charcoal in the kiln to create a somewhat uniform reduction atmosphere.
I was wondering about that, too, Chris.
I've seen several threads on LE about creating a reduction atmosphere in the kiln in order to keep silver glass reduced by adding activated (fish tank) charcoal. Some seem to think that it works well. I may have to go to Walmart on Monday. <shiver>
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  #15  
Old 2011-01-22, 7:41pm
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Fume it. I use a ball of fine silver bezel wire on the end of a boro rod as my fuming implement, but you can use a rod of silver glass too, Black Pearl works well.
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  #16  
Old 2011-01-22, 7:54pm
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Thanks for the tip, erose! I will try that tomorrow, too, even though I have never fumed in my life. I guess I will learn tomorrow.
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  #17  
Old 2011-01-22, 8:09pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erose View Post
Fume it. I use a ball of fine silver bezel wire on the end of a boro rod as my fuming implement, but you can use a rod of silver glass too, Black Pearl works well.
Oh wow -- what a great tip, I feel so dumb for never thinking of this! I'll definitely be trying this out next time I'm at the torch. Thanks!
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  #18  
Old 2011-01-22, 8:27pm
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Thank you for the image, now I understand better...
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  #19  
Old 2011-01-23, 10:50am
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I've been asked by several here on LE about how I get the uniform bronze-y reduction. These were made in 2 different sessions and I had no throw-aways in the bunch. I make 8 spacers to a mandrel.

- make your bead(s) in a neutral flame and don't worry about the smutz you will get at this stage.
- sprinkle lightly with transparent aqua enamels and heat until they boil (this step is optional but it will give the mottled look shown above).
- let cool until glow is pretty much gone.
- turn oxy down so you have about 2-2.5 inches of candle and make 3-5 passes in the flame above the candle. Make your last 3 passes in the very tip of the candle and get the bead(s) slightly glowing.
- pop in kiln. Generally I don't see much reduction if any at this point.

I garage at 925 and ramp to 950. I have found no difference in reduction whether I make these at the beginning of the session or the end.

Hope this helps.
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  #20  
Old 2011-01-23, 10:56am
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Ahhh...I was wondering how you got that mottled look. That really completes the look.
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Old 2011-01-23, 11:25am
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That's beautiful Julie!
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Old 2011-01-23, 11:27am
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I get the patina without trying and I always etch it off because I'm not a big fan of the look. However Julie took it to another level with the mottled effect and those beads are hella cool.
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Old 2011-01-23, 2:12pm
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THANK YOU for posting here Julie! Very cool to share the information like you did, and I appreciate it!
It was the gallery pics of your copper spacers that inspired this thread, ya know.
Your copper green beads are awesome, just like you!
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Old 2011-01-23, 2:22pm
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Oh, I forgot to ask--what kind of enamels? Like thompson enamels?
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Old 2011-01-23, 2:31pm
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Thank you Julie for posting the pictures, that is one hell of a set! Suddenly I am very interested in trying this
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Old 2011-01-23, 4:59pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moondanse View Post
Oh, I forgot to ask--what kind of enamels? Like thompson enamels?
The 9000 series of Thompson Enamels. I used Aqua to limit the reaction but you could use another transparent in a similar color.
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Old 2011-01-23, 5:20pm
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Thank you, Julie!
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  #28  
Old 2011-09-01, 4:34pm
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Default copper green

I have been reading through old posts since I am recovering from a spinal fusion and have been unable to torch. I found this thread and was surprised that everyone didn't get this reaction with CG. it is all I ever get. I would love to know how to keep the pretty minty green color. I never see it! I always get the color that is referred to here.

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  #29  
Old 2011-09-01, 4:41pm
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great info everyone!
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Old 2011-09-01, 6:29pm
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Sometimes if you heavily reduce Turquoise Copper glass it can give you a bit of a patina and "aged" look - even worked normally it's a cool color as well.

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