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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #31  
Old 2006-01-19, 2:01pm
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You can easily make your own tail stock holder out of a piece of boro rod. Clear or color... clear is cheaper. Just bend a 90 degree anlge about 1-2" from the end. When that cools, you can heat it back up and bend a little curve in the short piece. This will give you a great little place to rest the tip of your mandrel for support. Super duper cheap and easy to do. Lori Robbins showed me that one. Thanks Lori! You're the bestest!
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  #32  
Old 2006-01-19, 2:50pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Smiley
You can easily make your own tail stock holder out of a piece of boro rod. Clear or color... clear is cheaper. Just bend a 90 degree anlge about 1-2" from the end. When that cools, you can heat it back up and bend a little curve in the short piece. This will give you a great little place to rest the tip of your mandrel for support. Super duper cheap and easy to do. Lori Robbins showed me that one. Thanks Lori! You're the bestest!
Hey, that's pretty cool! Thanks and thank you to Lori too!
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  #33  
Old 2006-01-19, 3:04pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jenn L'Rhe
Put dipped mandrels into a bowl of rice...it doesn't hold moisture and cause rust like sand can.
I've used rice or lentils. Either seems to work. I usually grab which ever are on sale.
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  #34  
Old 2006-01-20, 6:55am
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The Tip of the Week archive on the Mid-Atlantic Glass Beadmakers' website is here: http://www.sgb-midatlantic.org/tip_archive.html. These have been harvested for about five years, from all over the web and from local folks. (Don't be surprised if an few from THIS thread show up there!) Enjoy!!

JanMD
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  #35  
Old 2006-01-27, 7:46pm
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Hi there, I joined some time ago, but haven't posted much. I've sure enjoyed the reading, though!

Last summer I wandered yard sales looking for old brass items to use as shaping tools. I still haven't come across that perfect brass letter opener for $1, but I can hope. What I did find was an old glass ashtray which is perfect for holding those leftover bits of stringer & twistie. This one was too deep to be a frit tray, which is what I was hoping to use it for. I also found an old butter knife, which is great!

Another tip that a friend gave me it to put a few of your wonkers into the jar of bead release. They act like the marbles in cans of spray paint, helping it to mix better.

Hope someone finds these helpful!

Sandy
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  #36  
Old 2006-01-28, 7:54am
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This is going to sound obvious but you may get a kick out of it.
When cleaning out bead release, put the plug in the drain! I only lost one bead down the sink but that was enough to do the uh duh slap to the head!

BTW, I don't let the bead release go down the drain. I trickle the water into a cereal bowl as I'm cleaning out the release and that catches all the release. The water continuously over flows but not the release. When I'm done, I pour off all the water and take a kleenex to wipe out the release from the bottom of the bowl and pop it in the garbage...........
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  #37  
Old 2006-01-29, 7:46am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julie(hjvan)

BTW, I don't let the bead release go down the drain. I trickle the water into a cereal bowl as I'm cleaning out the release and that catches all the release. The water continuously over flows but not the release. When I'm done, I pour off all the water and take a kleenex to wipe out the release from the bottom of the bowl and pop it in the garbage...........
I've been wondering exactly how to handle this at home. This is excellent info! Thanks! I'm sure my ancient septic system and grey water well will thank you too!

Lil
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  #38  
Old 2006-01-29, 8:13am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firelilly
I've been wondering exactly how to handle this at home. This is excellent info! Thanks! I'm sure my ancient septic system and grey water well will thank you too!

Lil
Hey Lil!
ya, we're on a septic system too and I'd get throttled if I filled the septic tank up with cement (hardened bead release)!! Don't forget to put the plug in the sink! Wet beads are slippery little suckers!
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  #39  
Old 2006-01-29, 8:50am
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I'm learning a LOT here! Thank you everyone.

Here's one I learned from Kate Fowle's video: use a small paint brush to clean bead release off your marver while working. Also works to get bead release out of presses and brush bits of glass out of the work area.

Another one I probably learned somewhere on LE - keep a damp cloth handy while working to clean bead release out of hot presses, also works to cool the brass a bit between presses.
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  #40  
Old 2006-01-29, 12:01pm
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Just checking in on the thread to see what is new...thanks everyone for your great contributions so far. Corri/Jan yes, I have those links that will be included in back of my student booklet for "continued reading/info". Hopefully the tricks I'm gathering here, aren't included in them. The ones here will go on a "tips/tricks" page of the student booklet, with the last entry reading
"*" additional info on page 26. Page 26 is the place I have tons of suggested reading/links/forums/supplier information for the students to take home.
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  #41  
Old 2006-01-30, 3:12pm
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bumping up
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  #42  
Old 2006-02-02, 4:45pm
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Thanks so much for the hair ponetail suggestion - I can't tell you how many bits of rubber band I have had to scrap off a rod~!

Last edited by MaureenKennedy; 2006-02-02 at 5:37pm.
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  #43  
Old 2006-03-12, 1:00pm
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Well, I'm finishing up the student booklets and popped into this thread one last time for any last minute entries, before I go to press. Thanks everyone for your great ideas and links etc. The students will have a nice package to take home with them after class with such wonderful additons.

I took several snipets from here and yes, typed them in with the name of the person who submitted it..so don't be surprised if you hear someday "Maureen! (or insert any name here) are YOU the Maureen that is mentioned in the FiredDesires teaching booklet???????? lol .......
Hugs,
catharine
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  #44  
Old 2006-03-12, 4:56pm
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Sweeeeeeeeet!
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  #45  
Old 2006-03-13, 10:50am
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You can use cat litter instead of sand for holding mandrels in a coffee can. I use microwave soup and pasta bowls too, so I won't have to have the big can on my work table. It's too small for a lot of clutter anyway!

Just watch your cats though! Seriously, my kitty knocked over my mandrel container and used the cat litter! That's because I left it on a small table near her litter pan!
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  #46  
Old 2006-03-13, 2:23pm
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Okay, I've got two!

#1
When adding stringer decoration to a bead, I like to have crisp ends on the design. For example, as soon as I'm finished adding scrolls to a bead, I leave the stringer attached to the bead, and move the bead away from the flame. Then, I quickly blow on joint where the bead and the stringer meets, and break off the remaining stringer. Doing this leaves nice crisp ends on the design and keep your bead from having blobs. This also gives you a nice flat stringer to start your next design with. Just be sure that your bead is fairly warm before adding your stringer decoration or else your whole design will pop off when you try breaking off the stringer.

#2
I like storing my pixie dust in small, glass baby food jars. This way, I can dunk my warm bead into the entire jar and get a nice, even coating of pixie dust. Also, when I'm done making beads, there's no cleanup! I just put the lid back on the jar.
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  #47  
Old 2006-03-14, 10:20am
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I bought an inexpensive (nylon?) "permanent" coffee filter that I use to strain the water when I dump out my water dish or the dish used when cleaning out beads. The mesh is tight enough to catch tiny glass shards and bead release (or, you can line it with cheap coffee filters--the Mr. Coffee type). Saves the drains and septic tank and the stuff gets dumped into a safe container for disposal (no cut fingers when taking out the trash).

Jood
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  #48  
Old 2006-04-09, 5:38pm
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Lightbulb

seed beads heat up and melt real well...squish them in your plyers and apply to bead for a "fin" look

mix facial clay with medium amount of bead release for a cheap way to extend its life span (dont forget to delute facial clay to the consistancy of the bead release)

make a clear bead. when you turn off the torch go to a dark place. when it stops glowing dunk it in room temp water, it should crack all the way through the bead

if you have a very delicate bead that reffuses to release from the bead release, soak it in hot water with powdered dishwasher soap for awile....it should pop off with minimal force

use heat syncs from computer chips as a great (and light) bead shape-thingy. but mind that it will heat up as fast as it cools off (very fast)

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  #49  
Old 2006-04-10, 5:31am
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It took me a while to figure out the concept of supply verses deny in regards to heating my work. I come frome a furnace background so I was used to supplying heat to my work. For example when I make a bead and add decorations like polka dots. I have a window of opportunity to do the procedure then I have to stop and flash the entire bead to keep it from cracking. As for sculpting a literal interpretation of say a horse I had to learn to deny heat to the piece. Which for me was counter intuitive. To build said horse I have to work from one end to the other being carefull never to put any heat on a section I have already finished.
FiG
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  #50  
Old 2006-05-24, 8:09pm
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Lightbulb Styrofoam!

Here's a tip I haven't seen here! I tried lots of things to hold my dipped mandrels... sand, rice, even glass blobs for the bottom of vases. I found that they'd tip over, touch each other, etc.

Now I use styrofoam. The thick, flat kind. It's fantastic! I wait until I get a large package or something, but every craft store has it. I use between 1-2 inch thickness and cut them into 5"x12" sheets. Then I shove the mandrels in, arranging them in rows from smallest to biggest. You can use the same holes again & again. There's very little chance of them touching each other that way. I will say though, if you're putting very large mandrels in, it could still tip. I just counter balance the whole thing by putting a few large ones on one end, then adding some to the other end before putting on the smaller sizes. Each sheet lasts me about 6 mo. before I need to replace it.
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  #51  
Old 2006-06-17, 9:44pm
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Exclamation For Dipped Mandrels

Quote:
Put dipped mandrels into a bowl of rice...it doesn't hold moisture and cause rust like sand can.
I use old pieces of styrofoam that comes out of hubby's boro glass tube shipments to place dipped mandrels in. A lot of times you can find them in boxes that electronic items or hair dryers come in. I use a mandrel to poke the correct sized holes in the styrofoam. I have a block for each size of mandrel I use.

This was my hubby's idea and it works great for me!

Whoops! Posted this before reading the entire thread...but I agree 100% with PinkLilyDesigns! I wouldn't use anything else!
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  #52  
Old 2006-06-18, 8:06am
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Wow.....the ideas keep on a going.......like the energizer bunny! Many, many good ideas in here....everyone...your super, thanks for contributing. I see some new additions to the book this year!!
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  #53  
Old 2006-08-26, 6:20pm
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I just now found this thread and enjoyed reading through the tips. I thought I would add a couple of my own. . . I have a big package of cheap coffee filters on a shelf in my studio. I use them for cleaning my glass rods with alcohol before I use the rods. The filters also work well to put frit back into it's little baggie or bottle. I don't spill any frit that way!
bj
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  #54  
Old 2006-08-27, 9:56am
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Bj...wonderful idea with the coffee filters..when I make frit (water method), after I drain off the water, I pour the frit into a filter and set it on top of my kiln to dry..within an hour or so...the frit has dried thoroughly and the filter, as you said, makes it easy to pour into its' jar. Glad you liked the thread, it's getting old in age, but timeless ideas never get old! Thanks for contributing.
Catharine
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  #55  
Old 2007-01-02, 8:11am
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I break my last bits of stringer and stringer that is too thin into small quarter inch or so pieces and use it as a type of frit, gives an intersteing effect

I also use a couple of my mandrels which have beads stuck on them as punty's and/or for stirring bead release.
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  #56  
Old 2007-01-02, 8:55am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Judi_B View Post
Another one I probably learned somewhere on LE - keep a damp cloth handy while working to clean bead release out of hot presses, also works to cool the brass a bit between presses.
And it works to take off any bead release or dust that inadvertently falls on the hot bead provided it has not been marvered in. Just quickly brush the damp cloth over the surface of the bead and it will pick up the release without messing with the design.
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  #57  
Old 2007-01-03, 8:30am
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I purchased 10 small stainless steel butter cups that I planned to use as molds for slumping voltive candle holders. Instead of using them this way, I put several on my bench when I am working with my more expensive glass, hand pulled colors, and shocky colors. When the pieces go flying, I pick them up with my tweezers and put them in the cups (sorting by color). I also put the shorts in the cups when they are 1" or less. When they have all cooled, I put them into labelled plastic containers with lids.

Once I have enough, I place them in my homemade frit crusher and make my own frit. It saves me $$ by not having to purchase 104 and 96 frit.
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  #58  
Old 2007-01-03, 8:44am
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Anne...that's a good idea! beats "picking" it off and distorting a design.
Mad, I love those little ss cups, I do with them pretty much what you do too, plus I use them to make small amounts of frit via the water method..another set holds dichroic bits/pieces with varying coes....but I never thought of using them as slumping molds!! thanks!
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  #59  
Old 2007-04-23, 11:59am
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i made a thread on making fish...not really a tip tho
below
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  #60  
Old 2007-04-25, 1:26pm
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Thanks for this great thread! I've got 2 or 3 that I don't think I saw here...

First, the tip about adding seed beads to "fill in" a larger holed bead - yes, this works great, but what also works well on a bead with at least a 3/32" hole is one (or two, or however many you need) of those little white, stick-on-the-back-of-french-wire earrings things. It fits inside the hole perfectly, and provides a nice buffer. Works especially well when making earrings.

Next - my favorite thing for cleaning glass is a microfiber rag. Make sure it's a good one, preferably by 3M. You don't need alcohol, making it perfect if you're teaching a class of beginners! You can actually feel the fingerprints etc coming off as you wipe down the rod.

Finally, and this one is an Anne Ricketts follow-up: Anne suggested using the ice cube trays that are made specifically for water bottle-shaped pieces of ice to hold stringer. Worked great, but hard (for me, anyway) to get out the itty bitty pieces (fat fingers and all that!). I followed up the ice tray idea with test tubes. They're made from pyrex, so heat resistant, and you can get cute little stands to stick them in. Now I have all my SIS in one, my goldstone in one, etc. etc. I have a large rack on a worktable behind me, and a small rack that sits directly on my work table. I select the few tubes/stringers I want for the day from the large rack, and put in the small rack for easy access. I can just pick them up and tip them to get the shorties out. They're also quite economical.
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