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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #1  
Old 2011-03-14, 7:24am
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Default Why are my large holed beads breaking when dropped?

I'm using 3/8 and larger mandrels for beads I've been using on bracelets and pendants. I dropped some of the pendants and some of those large holed beads broke.
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  #2  
Old 2011-03-14, 11:05am
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How thick are the beads? I have heard that if they are too thin then they are more fragile.
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  #3  
Old 2011-03-14, 11:16am
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Typically, when you throw glass things at high speeds, they break. I could see the large holed ones being more fragile than the small holed ones, but unless they are super thin, I can't see them being fragile enough to break without quite a bit of effort.
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Old 2011-03-14, 11:28am
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We anneal beads to be as strong as a glass bead can be, but they're not indestructible.

I would guess that something with a large hole would be more fragile, because the glass *Is* thinner, and there's not as much shock absorption.

A lot of other things can cause the bead to be more fragile...a bubble, a hairline fracture, a tiny bit of thermal shock, a lot of inclusions like mesh and cz's ... different coe's mixed...stuff you wouldn't see, and we all do it, and nothing to really worry about....UNLESS there's unreasonable stress put on the bead. (like dropping or flinging...)

I would just remind people that even though you took the effort to make it as durable as you could by annealing, that it's still glass, and dropping *could* chip, break or damage them.
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Last edited by ellyloo; 2011-03-14 at 11:31am.
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Old 2011-03-14, 1:37pm
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They are breaking because they "flung off her wrist and hit the wall".
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  #6  
Old 2011-03-14, 1:43pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squid View Post
They are breaking because they "flung off her wrist and hit the wall".
my thoughts exactly!
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Old 2011-03-14, 1:54pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xristie View Post
... her bracelet flung off her wrist and hit the wall and the large holed bead broke on it ... Is it just not a good thing to be dropping them?
It's never a good thing to be dropping anything made of glass.
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Old 2011-03-14, 2:34pm
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I think it would be because of the large hole. If for instance you "flung" regular round bead and it "hit a wall", the chances are it would not break. It's just the nature of the shape....or what Squid said
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  #9  
Old 2011-03-14, 2:43pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squid View Post
They are breaking because they "flung off her wrist and hit the wall".
er yeah!! hello, its glass!
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  #10  
Old 2011-03-14, 2:46pm
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Um, yeah, I try not to drop glass, because IT BREAKS.
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  #11  
Old 2011-03-14, 2:48pm
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Did you give them enough insurance heat before putting them in the kiln? If they were cooling going in, especially with a larger mandrel, it could have introduced stress that didn't help with the whole "flung off the wrist" ride....
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Old 2011-03-14, 2:51pm
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I think anytime a customer contacts you and uses the word "flung," it should be an automatic non-return!

See also: "hurled," "catapulted," "smashed," and most importantly, "ricocheted."
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  #13  
Old 2011-03-14, 2:59pm
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Definitely - but it was also noted that some broke when the artist dropped them as well.
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Old 2011-03-14, 3:14pm
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Geeze, I could quote many of you, but I'm too busy ROFL.

That said, I'm thinking it's the thickness of the glass, if the BHB's are breaking but your others made on smaller mandrels aren't, when treated a similar way. I've accidentally bounced a lot of beads across my concrete garage floor with no damage to them. Some that have been thinner in relation to the hole size haven't been so hardy.
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Old 2011-03-14, 7:58pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cghipp View Post
I think anytime a customer contacts you and uses the word "flung," it should be an automatic non-return!

See also: "hurled," "catapulted," "smashed," and most importantly, "ricocheted."
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  #16  
Old 2011-03-15, 5:22am
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Nikki..what do you mean by insurance heat?
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Last edited by Xristie; 2012-08-26 at 9:39am.
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  #17  
Old 2011-03-15, 7:20am
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Insurance heat...as in while you're making the bead, flash it periodically to make sure it maintains a good heat base. Otherwise you get uneven temperatures within the glass which sets up as stress.

Annealing's supposed to help equalize the heat so it cools in an orderly fashion, but you can help it along too.

But also, bhb's tend to be weaker because of the thinner walls. Get just the wrong angle when you drop and boom.
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Old 2011-03-15, 8:31am
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I seem to recall reading that, because metal (i.e. mandrel) cools more rapidly than glass, it is particularly important to make sure the mandrels of big hole beads, because they are so much larger than regular sized mandrels, have not cooled too much before putting the bead in the kiln because it will cause the glass to cool more rapidly along the mandrel than in the rest of the bead, setting up a potential stress area. If you are cooling your beads before putting them in the kiln, the mandrels may be cooling off too much & that might affect the integrity of the bead.
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Old 2011-03-15, 10:04am
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Wow thanks for the laugh you guys!!!

I would recommend to the buyer that she try not to fling her handmade bracelet or any other HANDMADE items in the future, and offer to replace the bead at cost. You may want to reiterate to her that IT IS GLASS.. as previously mentioned......

I must say, that I do not think that there is anything wrong with your annealing or your beads them self.
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Old 2011-03-16, 7:29am
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Thanks to all for your imput. I'll make sure I'm insurance heating the larger mandrels and beads better for sure.
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Old 2011-03-16, 8:44am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squid View Post
They are breaking because they "flung off her wrist and hit the wall".
I think I hurt myself laughing.
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Old 2011-03-16, 9:08am
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I was giggling when I typed it
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  #23  
Old 2011-03-16, 9:10am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xristie View Post
Thanks to all for your imput. I'll make sure I'm insurance heating the larger mandrels and beads better for sure. Maybe I should add a disclaimer to my tags that states "will break when flung!!!!"

Better add on the additional descriptors, just in case she pitches, torpedoes, blasts and various other destructive actions. I think it should also include using the beads to play marbles with - I know we use to FLING those around alot and yes, sometimes they did break!!!.
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  #24  
Old 2011-03-16, 3:30pm
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Thanks to Tom for explaining insurance heat before I got back to do so. Especially with thinner walled beads or anything sculptural, make sure the bead is evenly heated before going in the kiln to help reduce stress. Heat the larger mandrels really well before starting with the bead, too, so they don't pull heat away from the glass too quickly.
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  #25  
Old 2011-03-16, 4:25pm
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You say "kiln annealed", but a lot of folks don't really know how to anneal properly... what is your kiln schedule?

and thanks for the laughs guys... I had the same thoughts when i read what the customer said...
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Old 2011-03-17, 12:07pm
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I've got a AF99 from Arrow Springs. I'm making sure all my beads soak for at least 15 minutes at 960 before I start the annealing. It anneals at 960 for 30 minutes before it slowly starts to cool.
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