Silver glass help

[ASamples33]

So I have just started to become interested in using silver glass. I got some double helix from Frantz glass and.....wow what I get out of the annealer doesn't look anything like what I expected. I know there is a learning curve to working with this glass which is why I stayed away from it for so long. I just hope my wallet can support the time of learning. Any help would be appreciated. Tips, tricks, and tutorials welcomed.
Thanks,
Andi

[allicat]

Lets start with, which glasses do you have?

And have you checked Double Helix's site? They have instructions for both their reduction and striking glasses there: http://www.doublehelixglassworks.com/tutorials.aspx . It's a good place to start.

[Sheila D.]

I would do a search here on LE...there are tons of threads about silver glass. Also the Tutorials section here too. Have fun!

[CMode]

Also, try working with just some thin stringer pulled from the rods. Make dots, scrolls, etc. to practice your skills while limiting the amount of glass you use.

[KJohn]

Definitely a learning curve. Best way IMO is to read some tips, try to use the glass, look at the results, rinse and repeat. Eventually someone says something that kind of makes sense with what you are doing at the time and a light goes on. Then you try the next silver glass... Some are easier than others, but it is expensive and no way around that Definitely do what Christie suggested, and use stringers or use dots until you can get some understanding of the glass. Clear cores or cheapo glass underneath help a lot too.

Good luck!

[ROC]

Yes, which glasses do you have? And what kind of torch? I found on my hothead the glass reduced more than I thought it would, and striking colors were very challenging.

[ASamples33]

Thanks so much. Here are the ones I ordered Terraniva 2.1 and Pandora 2 and Boreas. I will look on DH site and see what I can learn there. I am working on a Nortel mega minor. Thanks so much y'all are wonderful.
Andi

[Listenup]

Annealing Schedule can also affect how the beads come out. Here's one of my charts that show the Pandora 2 and different results I got with different temps.

http://listen-up.org/kitty/beads/pandora.htm

[designerbeads]

For new to double helix, I suggest aurae and/or Triton. To conserve, make stringer and use as a decoration until you get used to it...dots or swirls are good. Boreas is ok for the same method. Make a base bead in black, add dots or swirls with the silver glass, melt partially in. Adjust flame to be a little bushy and pop the bead in and out of the further part of the flame. Look after each pass to see the change.

Laurie

[istandalone24/7]

fwiw pandora SUCKS. i can only get poo colors...even after barely getting it warm and using the kiln to strike...pandora and pandora 2 are not silver glass-newb friendly!

[ASamples33]

Ha ha ha istandalone24/7 I see what you are saying about pandora. Thanks for the tips. So when I am working with the stringer do I need to make any adjustments to the flame when pulling the stringer? Can I pull it in a neutral flame? Thanks again Andi

[designerbeads]

yess, neutral to pull

Laurie

[Double Helix Glassworks]

Originally Posted by istandalone24/7

fwiw pandora SUCKS. i can only get poo colors...even after barely getting it warm and using the kiln to strike...pandora and pandora 2 are not silver glass-newb friendly!

Pandora and Pandora2 work best when worked hot, allowed to cool, then annealed. If you "barely get it warm", the Pandora will start to flame strike, inhibiting the full strike that occurs in the annealer. Working it nice and hot "resets" the silver strike, redissolving the metallic silver into the glass matrix, and making it available for clean crystal growth. Pandora2 exhibits less flame striking than the original. If your Pandora/Pandora2 is flame struck by moderate heat incidental to the shaping process, the exterior can be reset using a small,strong, sharp flame.

I hope those tips help you get some attractive results from Pandora2.

--Jed at Double Helix Glassworks

[tiggybubba]

Originally Posted by istandalone24/7

fwiw pandora SUCKS. i can only get poo colors...even after barely getting it warm and using the kiln to strike...pandora and pandora 2 are not silver glass-newb friendly!

I actually love Pandora. There is one secret to it. SIMPLE beads. the kind that you wind, melt in to shape and that's it. It has to go into the kiln translucent. DO NOT flame strike.

But definitely not hot head material.

[ROC]

Originally Posted by tiggybubba

I actually love Pandora. There is one secret to it. SIMPLE beads. the kind that you wind, melt in to shape and that's it. It has to go into the kiln translucent. DO NOT flame strike.

But definitely not hot head material.

Actually, I made several beads using Pandora on my hothead. Not the best, but it was the only striking glass I could get any color out of. Don't ask me now, though, how I did it!

[AKDesigns]

Originally Posted by Double Helix Glassworks

Pandora and Pandora2 work best when worked hot, allowed to cool, then annealed. If you "barely get it warm", the Pandora will start to flame strike, inhibiting the full strike that occurs in the annealer. Working it nice and hot "resets" the silver strike, redissolving the metallic silver into the glass matrix, and making it available for clean crystal growth. Pandora2 exhibits less flame striking than the original. If your Pandora/Pandora2 is flame struck by moderate heat incidental to the shaping process, the exterior can be reset using a small,strong, sharp flame.

I hope those tips help you get some attractive results from Pandora2.

--Jed at Double Helix Glassworks

You are such a class act.

[ASamples33]

Thanks Jed