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Tips, Techniques, and Questions -- Technical questions or tips

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  #31  
Old 2011-04-14, 9:23am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irjc View Post
How do I angle the cold end away from the torch on a HH which is basically upright? I have mine tilted a tiny bit but it's still no/so not east/west. My hand almost ended up in the flame several times. I appreciate hearing from you Chad.

oh, and my shards come out lumpy.

Thank you everyone who has answered me. I'm still having a rough time with encasing and I appreciate all of you.

I hope to be able to get pictures to show today. The bead with the really thin encasing, that's what I want to be able to do.
I did try going away from me instead of towards me, that made it thicker.
When I have some $$ I will try Mary's tut. I'm squeezing that ssi chk as thinly as I'd like to encase--ha ha ha (sorry--sometimes I need to make myself laugh).
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Never having actually worked on a hot head, I can't answer that question.

I will say this, though... I feel that (and teach) angling the rod is the best way to control the thickness of the encasing. I can get just as thin of an encasing with a 12mm rod as I can with a 5mm rod.
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  #32  
Old 2011-04-14, 10:34am
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I have a tut for sale as well on encasing- it's a weird way to do it, but it is effective, and you won't trap bubbles. It allows you to use less glass to push around in each swipe, and I found it easier to do. This bead is thinly encased:
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  #33  
Old 2011-04-14, 10:45am
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make the color of your bead. then slip it inside a piece of clear tubing and collapse it down on top of the color. use a straight edge to strip off the ends. you need several sizes of tubing if you make lots of different size beads. cutting the tubing to short lengths helps but you can also do if from a long tube if you are real good.
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  #34  
Old 2011-04-14, 12:30pm
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where do you get 104 coe tubing Mark? that's an interesting idea, thanks.
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  #35  
Old 2011-04-14, 12:45pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irjc View Post
When I first touch the clear to the bead, it globs on, even when I push it onto the bead, it thins as I round around the bead, it's when I first touch clear to bead.
Touch down just a bit then pull back. That should help with that first blob. I do around the world encasement at about a 45 degree angle with my clear running through the flame and the bead behind it. I push the clear on and overlap wraps. Also, I like to gently soften about an inch or so of the clear before I start encasing rather than getting the end all molten. It's easier for me to control that way.
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  #36  
Old 2011-04-15, 8:58am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laserglass View Post
make the color of your bead. then slip it inside a piece of clear tubing and collapse it down on top of the color. use a straight edge to strip off the ends. you need several sizes of tubing if you make lots of different size beads. cutting the tubing to short lengths helps but you can also do if from a long tube if you are real good.
Or just do it inside out and it's encased automatically...
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  #37  
Old 2011-04-15, 8:53pm
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Originally Posted by Cosmo View Post
Or just do it inside out and it's encased automatically...
LOL

true
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  #38  
Old 2011-04-16, 12:19am
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What about dipping the bead in clear frit like you're going
to 'sugar' it but melt it in?
I have wondered if that works for thin encasing,or if it gives
a bunch of bubbles and inclusions, but haven't tried it yet.
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  #39  
Old 2011-04-17, 8:42am
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I don't think that'll work, jhana, because you'd never get an even layer. There would be spots where the base bleeds through, too.

Plus, most clear frit won't melt optically clear, so it would look a little scummy. It doesn't look that way in sugar beads because you're not melting it in all the way.
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  #40  
Old 2011-04-17, 6:31pm
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Hey - I like heavy encasement. I will encase and then encase the encasement. I make a lot of tornado style encased beads and I do 2 layers of clear striping, melt in and then do another full layer of clear. I do prefer rods on the thinner side, 4-5mm is perfect for me, as long as the clear is really clear and not scummy.
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  #41  
Old 2011-04-18, 1:30pm
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Rowyn,
Many here suggested encasing with stringers, have you tried that?
I just tried it recently and it really does help.
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  #42  
Old 2011-04-18, 1:42pm
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Having read about thicker rods, I'm wondering if it's better to use that really thick rod (assuming a HH can get the end molten consistently enough), so that a bigger gather could be quickly wrapped on to start with.
I acquired a longish, very thick rod of clear which I've been using as a punty. Maybe it could be more useful than I thought... Will give it a go.
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  #43  
Old 2011-04-18, 2:20pm
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Di,
Try and let us know. I was curious about that too.
I was wondering if we could melt it really liquidy with our HHs...
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  #44  
Old 2011-04-18, 2:23pm
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I'll give it a go later today. I didn't clean it like the other clear rods, since I only intended to use it as a punty. I'll give it a vinegar bath this morning. Hopefully I can torch this arvo - the weather's really muggy and wet today, which doesn't bode well for unsooty clear encasing for some reason.
I also don't know whether it's 'good' clear, because I'd got it with a bag of brokens. BTW, bags of brokens can yield some real treasures. Maybe this will be another one
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  #45  
Old 2011-04-18, 3:16pm
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The key to any of these styles, Rowyn, is SPEED. Once you have your gather, or are using the stringers/thin rods at a sharp angle, you have to GO FAST or you will get uneven encasement. Especially when you are doing the wrap-around with a large ball of clear - you melt up a ball about the same size as the bead you are encasing and you go FAST "around the world" so you get all the way before it sets up. With the end-to-end style that several people and I recommend, you also have to go fast, but you don't melt such a large gather. And remember, glass can not only move, it can REmove - heat the excess and skim it off your bead with the clear rod. Pull off to the side, stay close to the work, rather than pulling UP with the glass you're pulling off or you will distort your base.
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  #46  
Old 2011-04-19, 12:05pm
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Hi Christy,

thank you. I am trying all the suggestions and workin my way thru Moth's tutorial.

I have realised that I need to start with a smaller bead.
Stringer does a thinner encasement but I have trouble with lines. and burning my fingers

So far I like the aether seconds I got. I only got a little bit to try and now I don't want to waste it learning. I have alot of really ugly looking effetre, even after pickling it is nasty looking. I even have some really ugly super clear. I'm hoping the super clear that RonJr. has will be better.

I seem to prefer thinner rods but not quite stringers, but I'm still searching.

thanks for taking the time to post.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by misspiggy View Post
Rowyn,
Many here suggested encasing with stringers, have you tried that?
I just tried it recently and it really does help.
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  #47  
Old 2011-04-19, 12:11pm
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Originally Posted by Firebrand Beads View Post
The key to any of these styles, Rowyn, is SPEED. Once you have your gather, or are using the stringers/thin rods at a sharp angle, you have to GO FAST or you will get uneven encasement. Especially when you are doing the wrap-around with a large ball of clear - you melt up a ball about the same size as the bead you are encasing and you go FAST "around the world" so you get all the way before it sets up. With the end-to-end style that several people and I recommend, you also have to go fast, but you don't melt such a large gather. And remember, glass can not only move, it can REmove - heat the excess and skim it off your bead with the clear rod. Pull off to the side, stay close to the work, rather than pulling UP with the glass you're pulling off or you will distort your base.
Thanks Jenny, this is really helpful, I don't quite have the angle down, I have learned to keep my hand out of the flame, luckily I must have been moving quickly.
I do alot of distorting, some of it's cool. Thank you for taking the time to put all this down. I will certainly try what you said along with all the others posted here. I am so grateful to all the people who are helping with this.
Sometimes by accident I am getting a round encasement, that is encouraging!
thank you everyone
namaste
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  #48  
Old 2011-04-19, 5:03pm
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Hi Rowyn,
I just tried some Crystal Clear in 3-4mm.
Skinnier than regular but definitely fatter than stringer.
If you get a chance, try some.
Wish you luck!
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  #49  
Old 2011-04-19, 5:45pm
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It's 100% practice. Don't beat yourself up on this. Encasing is hard. If it were easy, there wouldn't be so many people who have trouble with it. You aren't doing anything abnormal. You are working through the learning curve. It takes time and patience and practice.

Oh...the clear frit thing doesn't work. I tried it about 7 years ago when I was feeling exactly the way you feel right now. LOL

Keep going.
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  #50  
Old 2011-04-19, 6:25pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoutycat View Post
How I encase really depends what I'm doing. If i have something that is very flat, especially tube or cylinder beads, I will pretty much always stripe encase, as described above. If i have raised elements, I will generally spot case those bits, then fill in with clear afterwards. For a fatter, rounder shape, I will go all around in a spiral ( but this is not always very bubble free, and is as thick as the rod I'm using).

There is a book, Encase it! http://www.beadmakingbooks.com/ that seems to be a really good resource.
I wasn't really impressed with the book. Lots of non-glass stuff (quotes from famous people, etc.), large type to fill the pages, not much you couldn't pick up here.
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  #51  
Old 2011-04-20, 4:11am
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I use thinner diameter clear about 4-5mm and go 'around the world" starting at the left right near the mandrel all the way to the right hand side. Make sure each wrap tightly bumps up against the previous one because if you leave a gap the base glass will smear through and look yuck.
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  #52  
Old 2011-04-20, 4:13am
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oh and you have to have the rod in the flame not the bead so the glass is melting onto the bead but the bead isn't hot enough to be distorted.
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  #53  
Old 2011-04-29, 4:53pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patienthand View Post
I encase from side to side, the trick is the angle of the encasing rod to the bead. Get a bnit of glass hot and PUSH it on in a quick swipe. If the rod is at 90 degrees it will be a thicker encasing, if it is closer to parallel to the bead it will be much thinner.
I'm having a hella time with encasing, and I too am on a HH. I think the HH isn't as conducive to encasing 'cause the clear cools off too quickly for eveness.

"Parallel" and "90 degress", though, now THAT told me exactly what I needed to know.

Thanks!
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  #54  
Old 2011-05-06, 7:26pm
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What I'm really having trouble with now, is keeping the clear hot enough and the bead not molten at the same time. And how to melt the encasing, on a HH, and not overheat the bead underneath the encasement.
I'm getting better but still having trouble.
the answers here are really helping, thank you
angel blessings
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  #55  
Old 2011-05-06, 10:58pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damselfly View Post
I use stringers, and use the "around the world" method. I start at one edge of the bead and wind it around and around until it's all covered. There's a couple tips and tricks with that method, but I can't seem to find the thread. Regardless, it seems to make a nice thin encasing.
This is what I do as well
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  #56  
Old 2011-05-08, 10:48am
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Mary's tutorial and a ton of practice is the way to go....three months ago my encased beads were a smeared mess no matter what I did, sitting down at the torch and doing several encased florals at every sitting has improved things so that there is only slight occasional smearing and some bubbles where I do not want them. Keep practicing and it will come!!!

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  #57  
Old 2011-05-10, 4:13pm
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Has anyone suggested the paddle method? Its a great way to control the thickness and not get the lines you are all talking about with stringer encasement. You can make your paddle as thin as you want. I think it helps to go around the ends with clear as well. I think the biggest feat of any encasement is having your core cool enough when you apply your clear, and melting in your clear slowly enough to not create bubbles! You can marver it if you heat the top layer only.

I have had some great success with even "the pulling method" you are all talking about with thicker rods even with stringer SOOOO thin! Its a heat control thing. I could NEVER master this on the HH..... I just did not understand the real liquidy state of the glass until I had a minor. I could never had a big blob of liquid on the HH like the minor! It was just not the same I think that now, after being on the minor and seeing the melting that it can do, that I would be able to do it on a HH. just needed that "aahh haa" moment on the minor with the heat.
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  #58  
Old 2011-05-10, 4:30pm
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Hmmm paddle method? Sounds interesting! Not sure how it'd go with the HH - seems to be more interference with the glass, which is dangerous in my workshop
But definitely worth a try Thanks.
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  #59  
Old 2011-05-10, 4:39pm
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EASY with the HH! That is the best part! Just make a ball of glass on the end of a rod, then squish it into a thin and even paddle of glass. Use this to encase. The hardest part of this method is keeping the paddle from cracking until you are going to use it. If you have a kiln, you can make your paddle and put it in the kiln until you are ready. If you don't have a kiln this can be a bit of a juggle between keeping your bead warm, making the blob, and squishing it, then shaping it to fit your bead. You may need to straighten the edges with a marver if your shape demands it. Then just get it warm, and attach it to your bead! you can snap off the end, and marver it down, (stringer snap style) OR melt and pull away like you would a rod. You can pre-empt this by thinning the bond between the paddle and the rod to stringer size.
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hand dyed silk ribbons in many colors!
WASHERS & TOPPERS - layering components for interchangeable glass topper and to use in other jewelry/metalwork.:

Last edited by jaci; 2011-05-10 at 4:43pm.
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Old 2012-01-27, 1:59pm
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BrownGirl BrownGirl is offline
CiM Tamarind-Skinned
 
Join Date: Apr 28, 2011
Location: Not nearly close enough to the water.
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Ummm, WOW!

I have been having a heck of a time with encasing. I read around and happened upon this thread. I immediately got on my torch and WOW! That angling bit is making all the difference. I am in front of my torch now and just made 5 beads and encased them and they are beautiful! Really, I am speechless. Keeping it at a sharp angle angled away from me and pushing down and around is amazing. My bead was not glowing but my rod was molten with a big glob and it was smooth sailing. Thank you all for the tips.

I am going back to torching but I just HAD to run and tell you all his and thank you for allthe terrific pointers. YAY!!

Thank you!
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In love with my Sparkly Green GTT Cricket! Running it with an oxycon and cookin' my beads in George Clooney, my Regular Guy GlassHive Kiln (Like George he is Super Hot and Fabulously Grey!).
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